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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just bought a 53 WD. Been doing a bunch of work on it to get it running good again. When I bought it, it barely ran at all. Installed new oil pressure gauge on it because the old one was busted and no oil pressure is read. I have removed the gauge while the engine is running and no oil comes out the port. I have also removed the oil filter with the engine running and only a slow stream of oil comes out of the tube. The engine is not knocking so I am assuming the mains, cam, and cylinder wall get oiled first and a low amount of pressure is used for the filter and rocker arm assembly? I guess that the port to the oil pressure gauge is just clogged? Someone please help.
 

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What weight oil are you using. My WD is a 1950 model and I have always run nondetergent oil in it. I have the operating instructions for the WD and a shop manaul. If I can help let me know.
 

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ya if you are running detergent oil in it your oil pressure will go out the door so i would first change the oil to a non detergent oil and see what happens had a buddy have the same problem when he first bought his farmall h changed the oil out for non detergent and wala the oil pressure came back
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Found something very scary today on the WD. Pulled the drain plug to drain the oil and nothing came out. Had to break a thick layer or sludge out of bottom of pan to get the oil to drain. Oh god help me! Feels like there is about a half inch of build-up in the bottom of the pan! None detergent oil most likely the culprit I say. Going to pull the pan on it and will take some pictures for you all. As far as my first question opening the discussion, these old tractors don't push all of the oil pressure through the filter before going to vitals do they? It looks as if the mains and that get the initial pressure and just a low amount is sent to the filter and rocker assembly. Is this correct? Redmule, if possible I could really use that manual you have on the WD. Don't have on yet.
 

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Found something very scary today on the WD. Pulled the drain plug to drain the oil and nothing came out. Had to break a thick layer or sludge out of bottom of pan to get the oil to drain. Oh god help me! Feels like there is about a half inch of build-up in the bottom of the pan! None detergent oil most likely the culprit I say. Going to pull the pan on it and will take some pictures for you all. As far as my first question opening the discussion, these old tractors don't push all of the oil pressure through the filter before going to vitals do they? It looks as if the mains and that get the initial pressure and just a low amount is sent to the filter and rocker assembly. Is this correct? Redmule, if possible I could really use that manual you have on the WD. Don't have on yet.
The service manual I have came from AGCO Corporation-4830 river green parkway-Duluth,GA 30136 part number 79003405. I know that tractor supply sells tractor manuals.
 

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Found something very scary today on the WD. Pulled the drain plug to drain the oil and nothing came out. Had to break a thick layer or sludge out of bottom of pan to get the oil to drain. Oh god help me! Feels like there is about a half inch of build-up in the bottom of the pan! None detergent oil most likely the culprit I say. Going to pull the pan on it and will take some pictures for you all. As far as my first question opening the discussion, these old tractors don't push all of the oil pressure through the filter before going to vitals do they? It looks as if the mains and that get the initial pressure and just a low amount is sent to the filter and rocker assembly. Is this correct? Redmule, if possible I could really use that manual you have on the WD. Don't have on yet.
Pull the pan, clean it out, clean oil pump screen. Pull the valve cover, clean it out. Clean the valvetrain (stiff wire brush works). Use shop vac, compressed air, etc. to remove loose gunk.

Reinstall oil pan and valve cover, put in new filter (not Fram! I had a 0 oil psi issue due to a Fram once on my AMC Javelin...:1336:) Since then I've used Hastings/Baldwin filters. Looking around online I got a dozen of them for $30 from an industrial surplus shop.:thThumbsU

Of course, new gear oil and coolant, other fluids, and a tune up probably wouldn't hurt.

If it ran okay with all of that gunky sludge in it, it should run well with some good oil in the crankcase. I'd run detergent oil to prevent sludge (detergents keep sludge particles in suspension, and are drained during an oil change or when passing through the oil filter).

I would not switch from non detergent to detergent oil since you do not want to loosen up sludge in the engine just to have it get stuck in some passage which may cause expensive damage to your engine.
 

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HAMMAN
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My son's WC has the same problem of sludge in the oil pan. Pulled the pan and found the screen for oil pump half plugged with gunk. He is going to clean the oil pan and has cleaned the screen on the oil pump. I called an old time Allis dealer here in N. MI. and he said run detergent oil in it, should be no problem. CLean it good and replace with new gaskets and it should be good to go. Good luck. Let us know how it turns out. :thThumbsU
 

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Detergent oil will not cause pieces of sludge to break loose- it will dissolve it and put it into suspension, where it can be drained with the oil. Several years ago I bought an old Onan generator that had been run on ND oil, the initial oil change came out in lumps. I filled it up with HD 30 and a quart of kerosene and ran it for a while, the oil came out black as it dissolved most of what was left. Refilled it with 10/30 HD and all is well- and the oil stays clean. Next change it will get Amsoil.
 

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Detergent oil will not cause pieces of sludge to break loose- it will dissolve it and put it into suspension, where it can be drained with the oil. Several years ago I bought an old Onan generator that had been run on ND oil, the initial oil change came out in lumps. I filled it up with HD 30 and a quart of kerosene and ran it for a while, the oil came out black as it dissolved most of what was left. Refilled it with 10/30 HD and all is well- and the oil stays clean. Next change it will get Amsoil.
Well, if anyone runs ND oil, and wants to switch to detergent oil... I stand corrected.:thanku:
 

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Had a D-14 which I noticed had NO oil pressure shortly after an oil change. Split tractor to rebuild pump (driven from rear of cam). Back together, still no OP. Friend with AC smarts pulled the oil filter & called me 17 kinds of dumb butt before explaining that there should be a tube (crushed at top end & pierced with 4 or 5 .015" holes/slots). First start yielded 28 psi cold & 20 psi hot fast idle. This was a bypass filtering system on a propane fueled engine. Oil wouldn't get dark before I felt guilty & changed it.
 

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I'm with Curtis on the disolve the sludge bit.
I sell oil for a living and don't buy into the the old tales. There IS a reason that the oil companies make oils "Backwards Compatable". They do that so the newer oil will work in older engines. Don't believe me? Look up the API Service Ratings independantly on the internet, on your own and you'll see what the American Petroleum Institue has to say about it. They aren't owned by an oil company, they are an independant operation, so no biased information or results.
Think of the API as the Nebraska Tractor Test Labs, only for oil.
By the way folks, that "Black Gunk" in the bottom of the oil pan or around the oil pumps pickup is carbon and soot from the combustion of carbon based fuels (gas & diesel). If you were running a detergent type oil, the soot and ash would be kept in a disolved state until it got to the filter where it would remain until time to change the oil and filter. Thus a cleaner engine.
Now if that engine hasn't been rebuilt, you switch it out to regular detergent additive based oil and it starts to smoke and burn oil, you just unplugged all of the internal oil leaks that formed over the years from wear and tear that were plugged by the "Black Gunk" and you really needed to rebuild that engine anyway.

Rand. Ummm... You didn't say, but didn't you check the fluids or change them before you tried to start it?
I really do hope that the engine is okay. If not, chaulk it up to a learning curve, rebuild the engine and for heavens sake, use a regular detergent oil afterwards.
 

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I also save the Amsoil series 3000 5/30 that I drain from my 2003 Dodge, and use that to clean up salvaged engines. The oil is still very clean after 18,000 miles in the Dodge. The last engine I treated with it was an old ABN Wisconsin that was still in original condition. It runs great on that oil with no smoke, noise, or leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Poppa Dave, I did check all fluids in engine before starting it. The oil in the engine was clean and full. Also found that fitting in bottom of oil filter housing was threaded in too far and not allowing oil pressure to reach gauge. All is well now and tractor will pull down a house. Thanks for all your help.
 

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I wouldn't be to suprised there is a pile of sludge in the pan, I havn't had a tractor that hasn't. I don't buy trailer queens just old work horses for the farm. clean it out, put in some new fluids you should be fine. congrats on the purchase. the wd's are awsome. I have an old wd45 with a swartz loader. it's pulled alot of stumps, moved a lot of dirt along with cutting/bailing the fields and all it's other jobs.
 

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Oh what a relief that must be to have found something so simple causing that oil pressure reading.
With the luck I have, my stuff runs better backwards than forwards. LOL
How about some photos of the old girl working up a sweat?
I am looking at a WD myself to run a baler with. Everything else is to over priced for the low budget bid work I'd be doing with it.
Might you have any tips or tricks to squeak out a few more ponies out of that WD engine?
 
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