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Discussion Starter #1
Hello gents,
I figured this section would do since it seems this tractor is identical to most craftsman's from it's era (probably 1997-98).
It has a Kohler command twin and is a clutch.

I'm thinking it is a "saftey switch" or wiring issue since it will not even crank.
Every other day it will start and run fine and others NOTHING ! If I shake the machine around it will crank, so its either connecting a broken connection or "jolting" a switch when I shake the machine.

Is every "safety switch" truely a switch or are they a variable resistor type switch ?

If they are just a switch do they switch grounds or hot ?
and where?

How exactly does the saftey system work ? (ie does it gnd the selanoid so it will pass current, or trigger a coil line on a relay someplace ??)
I know my seat switch is good,

any info or suggestions would help.
I gotta mow this weekend and this is my only tractor with a deck thats functional at this point.
 

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1. Craftsman from that era are not identical to each other, let alone their clones.

2. They are either open or closed. They work in many different configurations. Some need to ground, some need to open, some need to close and it also depends on the circuit. There's no simple yes/no answer.

Providing the exact model & serial number MIGHT allow one to find the proper schematic.
Or YOU could look in your OM and scan/post it.

You should probably make sure the connector plugs are tight on-
Key switch
Brake/clutch switch
Attachment/PTO switch

For a "basic" crank circuit-
12V is connected to "S" terminal from "B" terminal of key switch.
It then goes through the clutch/brake switch and then the PTO switch to the small terminal of the starter solenoid.
It's typically a WHITE wire.
 

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I'm not familiar with your tractor or many of the newer craftsmans. On the older sears tractors, the safety switches were all normally open switches arranged in series on the wire from the key switch to the solenoid.

In order to start, all of the switches needed to be temporarily closed to complete the circuit ( I.E. Brake on, clutch in, operator present, etc). It was easy to test these by running a wire directly from the start terminal on the key switch to the input side of the solenoid, thereby temporarily bypassing the safety switches. This let you know if the problem was in the safety circuit or not.

Post your model number & I'll try to find a wiring diagram for the tractor, that will help to sort out the problem.

Dave
 

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long time lurker.....
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Discussion Starter #4
M/n: Pp1846pj
 

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long time lurker.....
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Discussion Starter #6
So the only thing that affects Solenoid function is key switch and pedal safety switch and PTO switch, or solenoid gnd.
Mine uses the actual PTO switch as the attachment safety, and it seems they switch power not gnd.


I guess we test terminal S @ key for power
than power out of pedal switch
than out of PTO switch
than @ solenoid
If all checks out than solenoid gnd.
and if all still checks out I guess we replace solenoid ?????
 

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I'd still check your connections first!
When it does nothing, I assume you actually mean nothing. Not even the fuel solenoid clicking?
That would point to the connector to the key switch or the fuse holder.

You're going to have to make some effort besides sitting at the keyboard to solve the problem.

You have the opportunity for good advice here, but you have to follow that advice.
What have you actually tried so far?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'd still check your connections first!
When it does nothing, I assume you actually mean nothing. Not even the fuel solenoid clicking?
That would point to the connector to the key switch or the fuse holder.

You're going to have to make some effort besides sitting at the keyboard to solve the problem.

You have the opportunity for good advice here, but you have to follow that advice.
What have you actually tried so far?
I found my manual just now.
I will definitely check connections first

I'm not even sure I have a "fuel Solenoid"....
book say's I have an "after fire" solenoid
although there is a wire from the bottom of the carb bowl ??
fuel seems to be a straght shot from tank to pump to carb (diaphram pump)......

I found my manual just now.
I havnt really tried anything yet, last year everytime I tried to chase the problem the tractor worked as it should and when it did not work I didnt have time to mess with it I would just jump on the TORO and mow....BUT I sold the TORO today and this issue is more frequent so I gotta figure it out.

I did not expect to "fix it from behind a keyboard" (im not quite sure if that was a "stand offish" comment or just a statement) I'm not new to engines or electronics just not a ton of experience with modern lawn tractors.

Tomorow (if its done raining by then) I have time to start looking at it.

and by nothing....like I said, it wont even turn over. I do not hear any other relays or solenoids clicking at all. But I think its past the fuse becuase my ammeter reads when I hit the key, it is between the key and fuse.
 

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The fuel solenoid is the same thing as the afterfire solenoid.
It should click when you turn the key to the ON position.

The only thing that would make the ammeter "twitch" would be it and the hour meter IF equipped.

IF you have a voltmeter or 12V test light, you can trace the circuit to & through the clutch/brake swith and attachment switch.
It's one or more of-
bad connection
bad switch
switch out of adjustment.

Also check where the white wire connects to the solenoid. It might be as simple as that not being pushed on fully.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
What exactly does the fuel solenoid do ??

Yeah I have test equipment, I ll let ya know what I find tomorow.

The batt is new and with clean connections.
 

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It shuts the fuel off to prevent back fires when shutting off the engine. Basicly stops the flow of gas to the venturi of the carb

Sent from the MTF Free App
 

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Discussion Starter #13
didnt take long to find it !

its the plug behind the key switch, becuase of the ignition switch being loose it has spun around over the years and twisted those wires into a mess and they have now shorted together and melted the plug itself........

I dont even know what my options are for replacments......other than finding a harness off another tractor and cutting it off and splicing it in with solder and heat shrink.
there may be enough wire length left to put spade connectors on and plug the wires individualy in to the switch......

im going back out now to manualy jump terminals together to be sure there is not another issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
In the end I went with the spade terminal solution and replaced the ignition switch and all is well !:Tractor2:
 

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Discussion Starter #16
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