My Tractor Forum banner
  • Are you passionate about Tractors? Would you like to write about topics that interest you and get paid for it? Read all about it here!
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, like several other people here my 3 amp cheapo charging system failed. The stator has shorting. It had no output, and with an ohm meter read zero. So, I decided to upgrade to a 15 amp stator. It looks really simple to put in and it was.
Circuit component Hardware programmer Circle Auto part Electronic component


The picture above shows the old and new with the new regulator/rectifier. After cleaning up several parts the install was almost complete, with the exception of 2 wires. The ground and the battery . I used alligator clips for these and the
system worked well. 13.3volts at the battery running about 1/2 throttle.

Motor vehicle Bumper Electrical wiring Automotive exterior Gas


Now I'm trying to finish the final install and wire the center post to the battery. It looks like this wire needs to be switched
+B to the battery. After looking at the the terrible wiring diagram in the manual I've come to the conclusion that
the "L" terminal on the key switch is the only reasonable place to make this connection. The problem I have is there is no
way to determine what wire this is by looking at this hideous diagram. Can anyone help out?
I've attached a PDF of the wiring I hope it shows up..
ERIC
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
Its the wire that went to your old stator that has the diode in it. But you might as well hook up both of the old stator wires to get your headlights working again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Its the wire that went to your old stator that has the diode in it. But you might as well hook up both of the old stator wires to get your headlights working again.
SO, thanks for the reply..... This would make sense to some degree...
In the run position this wire goes to +B..... BUT I see that in the off position this wire is connected to ground.
What is going to happen to the regulator if it goes to ground? Anyone?

I'm trying to find wiring for a 15 amp kohler machine, thatt would show how this is wired..
Not having much luck.

ERIC
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,228 Posts
I don't see why it would be any different putting the dc feed from the regulator to the L if that's where the feed from the diode on old stator was going. I'm assuming the regulator has a diode internally. Since currently you only have lights with engine running you might want to run a battery feed to the A terminal where old ac lead from stator went. You could then have lights with engine off ( and forget about them and kill battery also). I'd jump from the wire going to B on keyswitch over to A. That would mean feed to lights was fused.
 

·
Registered
'81 Gravely tractor, 50's 60's 70's 80's 90's Gravely tractors Various Honda Power equipment
Joined
·
613 Posts
If you hook it to the 'L' terminal,that is used for accessories with the key on power so it should send power to the battery when the key is on and engine running.
If it was hooked to the 'B' terminal it will always have battery power up against it and if the diode fails it will discharge the battery when the key is in the 'Off' position from it discharging through the stator coil.
That is the way your ignition switch is wired with the 7 prong. If it was the standard 5 prong switch it would be wired to the 'A' terminal for key on and off protection.
The diagram shows a 'Dual circuit' alternator that produces both 'AC' and 'DC' current. The 'AC' is used for lighting, the 'DC' is used for battery charging.
That is why you have the 7 prong ignition switch, because of the dual circuit alternator if you are switching it to a single circuit output.
You should re-wire it with a 5 prong switch. You would then operate your lights off of your battery instead of the AC output from your alternator stator.
The stator you put on it has the higher output and both wires coming out of it have an AC output that goes to the voltage regulator/rectifier that switches the AC to DC to run your electrical system.
Your lights will operate off of your battery then and can be used with the engine not running and will remain a constant brightness instead of dimming at low engine speed.
On the 5 prong switch the lights and accessories would connect to the 'L' terminal and when you shut the key off, you cut battery power to them along with battery power to the voltage regulator, so if you forgot to turn the light switch off you wouldn't run your battery down as long as you shut the ignition switch off. The battery would go to the 'B' terminal so you have key on power. Just make sure you get the proper switch for the ignition type you are using. If it is a magneto ignition, it grounds the ignition when the key is off, if it is battery type ignition, it battery powers the ignition when the key is on. If you use the wrong switch and put battery power to a magneto ignition module, you will burn out the module, so make sure you get the correct switch.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
150 Posts
I'm trying to find wiring for a 15 amp kohler machine, thatt would show how this is wired..
https://www.searspartsdirect.com/ma...man-917272960-front-engine-lawn-tractor-parts

I'm not sure how to extract the schematic from this but the schematic for mine is on page 35.

In the run position this wire goes to +B..... BUT I see that in the off position this wire is connected to ground.
What is going to happen to the regulator if it goes to ground? Anyone?
The regulator is wired to be grounded with the key off on mine from the factory and it's been fine for 21 years now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,447 Posts
Bottom left corner has an ignition switch 'truth table'.
If you use the original switch, you can connect the regulator output to the same spot as the "L" connector to supply accessories and charge the battery.
If you want the lights to work, then you should supply battery voltage to the "A" terminal. The original switch will work as advertised.
The "L" terminal would be the middle one of the 'three in a row' on the back of the switch or in the connector that the switch plugs into.
The wire itself would be the middle one in the connector. It has the L label in the picture immediately above the truth table.
tom

Added:

Mine has the 'ammeter' in series that is dash mounted. If your meter reads discharge when you rev the engine, and charge when you let it go to idle, then you can swap the two connectors on the meter as they have been put on the wrong terminals. I did that.
tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks everyone for the feedback.... I think I got it.... Specail thanks to "HughDaHand" for sending a link
to his 15amp charging system. This confirms that the regulator is grounded when turned off. SO, I can wire to the existing setup, that also grounds the regulator upon turning off.

ERIC
 

·
Registered
'81 Gravely tractor, 50's 60's 70's 80's 90's Gravely tractors Various Honda Power equipment
Joined
·
613 Posts
That diode is normally wired/soldered into the wiring harness of the stator that was removed so it shouldn't even be in the rest of the harness. The new stator wiring goes right to the regulator.
The output to battery wire from the regulator will go to the key switch terminal.
Dave-r is correct that the diode serves no purpose in the harness now with the new stator as there is diodes inside the regulator/rectifier that was installed for the new stator that is mounted on the engines blower housing.
The voltage regulator needs to be grounded to the engine to operate. He has a jumper wire on it in the picture and has to make a permanent jumper wire for it, easy to do with a piece of wire and round eye terminals.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,252 Posts
From the pic in post #1, the o.p. has switched to a charging system with a full regulator, so I would suggest the o.p. removes that separate diode as it serves no purpose anymore.
oh good - yea - the diode is not required in that case....
you can actually see the old diode in the harness - next to the old stator
 

·
Registered
'81 Gravely tractor, 50's 60's 70's 80's 90's Gravely tractors Various Honda Power equipment
Joined
·
613 Posts
Actually that is not the diode next to the stator. The diode is in the wire harness close to the wire coupler where it plugs in to the tractors harness.
The diode is very small and usually covered with shrink-wrap so you really can't see it unless you peel the coating off of the wire it is soldered into. They are about the same diameter as the wire it is attached to.
You can see what looks like a diode soldered into the black wire and how small it is up close to the wire connector. The diodes should be shrink-wrapped to keep them from shorting against another wire. If they short themselves, it will burn out and ruin the stator assembly besides not putting out any current.
The parts near the stator are the wire hold down clamps.
The black wire should be the DC output for the battery charge, the yellow should be AC output for lighting and the green should be chassis ground.
The 2 white wires on the new stator are AC output to voltage regulator/rectifier.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,252 Posts
Ya ya. Thanks for that. I know what diodes look like - i've seen one or two of them in my life.....

But yea - i should have zoomed in in that photo - what i thought was a diode is the mounting tab...

It looked just like a diode body from further back....

Cheers!
 

·
Registered
'81 Gravely tractor, 50's 60's 70's 80's 90's Gravely tractors Various Honda Power equipment
Joined
·
613 Posts
Good luck with it, hope it works out well for you. You will have more battery charging power with it now.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top