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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can I swap a 16 hp Onan Performer out of a 3016 into a 446?
 

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a performer is just an updated B series.. I believe the performer has electronic ignition. What you're going to run into is the 30xx and 40xx tractors had the engine 'turned around' compared to 4xx tractor. 4xx tractor, hydraulic pump was on crankshaft side and belt pulley to mower was on the flywheel side.

3000 - 4000 are opposite, pump is on the flywheel and electric belt clutch is on the crankshaft end and the pump in the new machine turns the opposite direction of the 400 pump, etc.
 
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Just finished dropping a P220 into a 446. Engine largely dropped in with a few easy changes, ez clutch bolted right up. Output end of the crankshaft may need to be shortened. Starter being on the other side caused me the most issues...minor changes to oil cooler lines. Also re-wired the tractor...but it needed it anyways.

There are some basic instructions here; https://manuals.casecoltingersoll.com/ServiceManuals/Onan P series repower info.pdf

Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I would need to use the 30xx pump because the 4xx pump would be running backwards, correct?
 

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So I would need to use the 30xx pump because the 4xx pump would be running backwards, correct?
I used the pump from the 446...you turn the engine around when putting it into the 446...fan end toward the front of the tractor with the ez clutch bolted on...pump and love joys on the output shaft.

Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I used the pump from the 446...you turn the engine around when putting it into the 446...fan end toward the front of the tractor with the ez clutch bolted on...pump and love joys on the output shaft.

Al
So the clutch and pump will bolt right on to the reversed engine without any mods?
 

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You may need to shorten the output end of the crankshaft.

After that, my pump bracket bolted right up (use thread sealer on the lower two bolts as they go directly into the crank case), the manual clutch bolted right on, the motor mounting bolt holes are the same as well.

I had concerns about clutch pulley alignment, and had transferred some paint pen marks to the frame before pulling the old B43M...these aligned perfectly after the new engine was bolted in.

I used the exhaust from the B43M/446 as well...it bolted right on. Also used the exhaust heat shields from the B43M, but had to do a snip here and there to fit them.

I'm enjoying the heat (cooling air from the engine) while snow blowing, but come spring there will need to be some changes made to the side tins. They will need to be shortened similar to those on the B43M, and the deflector tins from the B43M will need to be installed.

I had to change some wiring due to the solenoid being mounted on the starter and the regulator being mounted on the fan shroud. (I needed to rewire the tractor anyways) Also changed out the fuel line (it was old and too short now).

Had to modify the oil cooler lines as in the article I linked you to...and modify the lift arm for the snowcaster to clear the starter solenoid. I also found I had to move the support for the chute rod.

I do suggest buying "T bolt" hose clamps for the suction line and cooler lines. If the suction line is at all questionable, I would replace it now too. It will take at least an hour to get back to it if it leaks once everything is bolted back together and filled. I had to pull it back apart to change the hose clamps on the suction line...I had re-used the "wire" clamps that still "looked" good.

Regards,
Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Sounds good...Thanks for the knowledge. Much appreciated.
 
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