[Jhenry72]

Hello Everyone! I have recently received a MTD Mastercut rider
Model # 13AJ775G059
Serial # 1C038B40280

Long story short, my neighbor had this rider for a very short time and says that he installed a trailer ball to it and after that was never able to get it running... He asked if i wanted it and clearly couldn't resist! The thing is still like new! Except! for the wiring mess I inherited... There was no positive battery cable and the in-line fuse was missing.. I went to the local hardware store, bought an in-line fuse kit, 20amp fuses and made a new positive cable. My problem now is, every time I try to hook up the positive cable to the battery, I blow the in-line fuse. I have checked all safety switches, and even tried disconnecting everything but the ignition switch, still blew the fuse. Once I disconnected the ignition switch I was able to connect the battery without the fuse popping! But as soon as i tried to connect it, Poof! It blows.... I have an older MTD lawn machines and removed the ignition switch from that and tried it and was able the connect the battery, and the switch! But as soon as i tried to turn the key...Pop! goes the fuse.... Ugh... I am thinking towards ordering a complete new wiring harness and starting from there...? I have attached some photos and will post more if needed... I do want to add that I was able to jump the solenoid and the engine does turn over!
Thanks for the the help!

 

[990Guy]

I had an issue once where I had the charging mechanism from the flywheel and the safety switch lines cross-connected, that would blow the fuse. I think I had the switch on when I did that. The connectors were the same. But if you're disconnecting everything, I wouldn't know. Just thought I'd throw that suggestion out there.

 

[wwxx]

I'm inclined to agree with Steam Machine, kina sounds like the diode/rectifier of the charging system is missing/no longer working properly/miss connected & shorting out thru the alternator, if that has happened, the lacquer painted wires of the stator itself will often appear burnt in color. If that is a B&S engine, they usually use a 'white 2 pin connector' which is near the dipstick area, the red lead from the stator, should have a diode very close to the plastic connector encased in black heat shrink. The black lead from the stator is usually the AC voltage (which has no diode) which is for the headlights only. Sometimes if the starter has been removed, and those 2 wires from the stator are incorrectly trapped between the starter & the engine block, once the starter is installed, a dead short will quickly develop because the 2 stator wires are squished between the starter mounting & the engine block.

Hopefully the battery voltage hasn't been exposed to the magneto coil, the plastic covered ignition coil will often have a 'bubbly' appearance if voltage has shorted thru that part.

You might notice on your ignition switches, there are letters that identify each terminal on the ignition switch, the replacement ignition switch must be identical to the original switch~~~MTD uses several different ignition switches for various applications, (which are not interchangeable) even tho outwardly, they all look very similar.

wwxx

 

[Jhenry72]

Thanks to the both of you for you input!! I definitely look into that!! I'll be outta town till Sunday, but I will try to look closely into those areas then!! Thanks again and I will let you know what I find out!