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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Gang

been a long time since I've been on this site. Finally got a tractor to talk about. Got a MF 135 with the Continental engine. I didn't have the patience for finding something with the Perkins Diesel.

Mowed a little with it but have decided to do a little maintenance before I do much more with it. It starts easily although I think the throttle linkage may be out of adjustment. Doesn't seem to rev very high and I don't think pushing the throttle all the way down should kill the engine!

My daughter and I gave it a bath after this picture. Definitely need to spend some time addressing oil leaks. Doesn't appear to be the valve cover but there is oil all over the block on the spark plug side of the engine.

It also came with a mower but it's pretty rough. it cuts but has been broken in about every place I think it can have been.

Progress to come.
 

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here's a pic of Mr Ferguson cleaned up a little. My fuel sediment bowl is leaking pretty badly at the shutoff valve. Really not impressed with how these work. I'll try to repack the valve this week although I've never had much luck with packing doing anything. I'm concerned the seat is bad too as the packing shouldn't see fuel if it's shut off.

Figured out why my tach isn't working. It's nut screwed into the generator. I spun it by hand and it seemed to spin fine so I'll try that later too.

I'd forgotten how bad gasoline smell can be on your hands. I've gotten spoiled by working on cars that don't leak gasoline!
 

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I put a lot of hours on one in my youth, they were very popular here on small farms with a 1/4 or less. Most seemed to be diesel. I have my eye on an old gas 35 but have no need or place to store it.
 

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We pulled the front wheels off this morning. Evidently, I have one fluid filled front tire and one without. Both tires are pretty rough but I'm not sure if I will replace them.

The front axle needs some attention. It's missing a bolt and the bushings are all a little shot. Let's see what we can do with this.
 

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Thanks. I've been looking at that manual already.

I got the wheel bearing apart and spindle dropped out easy enough. Without mik'ing the spindle shaft OD I don't know for certain but i didn't feel any appreciable wear. I went to remove the brass bushings but haven't been able to. I used a pilot bearing puller with slide hammer but just couldn't get them to budge. Time to clean up for the day.

Any tips for pulling these bushings? There isn't a lot of material there. The service manual recommends using MF 263 Bush Remover and the MF 263-1 adapter. I'll spend a little time on the internet looking for how to rig something up. I was surprised my pilot bearing puller wouldn't get it. This is the unit I have. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076CGD2KX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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Everything looks good, especially the sheet metal for that old of a tractor. Considering the cost, I usually just replace the fuel shutoff valve, all present and foreseeable future problems solved. Have done quite a few 20, 30 and 35’s w/fuel valve problems, inexpensive solution. One 35 I did had atrocious bushings, I finally had a machine shop remove mine, he pressed the new bushing in also. I usually get too heavy handed and end up creating more problems, so I just had the shop take care of that one problem. Almost any and every part you need is available for your tractor. And so much easier to work on than the new models. In all likelihood be very satisfied with your tractor, will last a long time if you take good care of the old girl.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The bowl assembly was pretty new looking. I am trying to balance money and time on this project.

I do want to remake the fuel line at some point.

I have a press at work and will probably get one at the house. I just need to get the correct bushing. I couldn’t feel a shoulder on the inside. I wonder if I can just press it all the way through.

I need to figure out what OD the reamer they mention is. It should be a reasonable tight fit to the shaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The front end is looking kind of bare.

I took the outer axle ends off because I secured someone to press out the bushings, install new, and then bore them to size.

I need some tie-rod ends on the right side and plenty more bolts. All of the ones on the axle had to be beaten out and the threads are pretty rough now. Looks like one had been involved in a bit of an accident as the one holding the radius arm was partially sheared!

The radius rods mount onto the frame of the tractor seem a little worn. It doesn't look like there is any sort of bushing in there. Guess I'll just deal with it.

I'm in this far so I may just pull the axle pin too. I've drained the coolant because it was pretty nasty looking. Seems like I'm most of the way through getting the axle pin out so...

Picture of what it looks like right now.
 

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You will save yourself lots of frustration if you do thread chasing w/a tap & die. And I don’t think there are bushings on the radius arms, and almost every Ford or Ferguson I’ve been around or worked on had wear on them from the tires rubbing on them from too many hard turns. Changing the coolant is really a smart idea, if you don’t, your just rolling the dice and praying nothing freezes. And, for you hardware (bolts/nuts/washers) go to one of the larger tractor dealers, the Ford dealer 20 miles away sells standard grade hardware by the pound. Grade 5 & 8 are sold by piece, so if I need an up grade bolt, they always have the size & length bolt I need, and while I’m there grab a few hands full of various sizes, slightly too long of a choice, get out the hack saw, right length now. LOL. From the looks of everything I see, you shouldn’t be too far into it financially, and you will thoroughly enjoy the tractor for a long time.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
The rods are loose in the sockets is what I was trying to say. It doesn't look like there is any sort of shim or bushing but I have seem some tales online of people wedging pennies in there. I will just see how the tractor drives before I replace these. They are easy to change out later along with the tierod ends. The wheel bearing and spindle stuff are pretty involved so I'd rather knock those out sooner rather than later.

The local Rural King sells Grade 8 and Grade 8 fasteners by the pound and has plenty to choose from. I also have a Fastenal in town but they're pricey. But they can get oddball stuff.

Thankfully these have all been bolt and nut connections -- no blind holes to deal with yet! Also I was surprised I could get both draincocks to work. Coolant came out muddy from the block and very faint green from the radiator. I'll go ahead and fill it back up with clean coolant for now. I will consider flushing it out when the tractor isn't in the garage. I don't want to run the engine inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I've started a YouTube channel for this tractor (and my other garage stuff). Link below for those interested. I will keep the forum updated too.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Got the hubs cleaned up. The bearings were clearly toast. These wear sleeves came out but I don’t quite understand their purpose. The bore they ride in had no grooves and it was just for the end seals. I need to see what the target bore size is for the seals to ride in.

Got a shop press too so I can press in bearings without a hammer.
 
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