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Discussion Starter #21
thanks for the manual 95lawnboy, too cool and rainy to spray rust primer today, got the muffler as clean as I could, ran out of oven cleaner! will clean again next time, priority now is get it running
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Sometimes life just gets in the way of a good day in the shop! Either that or it was the rain and cool weather. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! Anyway I got the 10227 running today. Seems to run pretty good. Thanks for the tip about the blade, doesn't seem like any vibration at all. Mowed a small area and everything works great.

 

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Sometimes life just gets in the way of a good day in the shop! Either that or it was the rain and cool weather. That's my story and I'm sticking to it! Anyway I got the 10227 running today. Seems to run pretty good. Thanks for the tip about the blade, doesn't seem like any vibration at all. Mowed a small area and everything works great.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Myzy_hiVmQ&feature=youtu.be
Looks and sounds great to me, and I think it might run smoother/nicer than any of my Vs. I’m glad the blade timing worked out for you. They’re great light mowers and nice to use this time of year for leaf mulching. Looking forward to see you fix up the duraforce next...
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Looks and sounds great to me, and I think it might run smoother/nicer than any of my Vs. I’m glad the blade timing worked out for you. They’re great light mowers and nice to use this time of year for leaf mulching. Looking forward to see you fix up the duraforce next...
Thanks, Going to go mow some with it today, I'm happy with how it turned out. Not sure how far I'll get with the DuraForce as I don't have a heated shop but the weather is going to be nice for awhile yet so we'll see.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Well the 10227 runs and mows great, couple of more mows and I'll put it up for the winter. The 10323 is going to take awhile. Good thing I didn't try to start it. Engine and carburetor full of water, flywheel stuck on, steel parts heavily rusted, aluminum parts highly corroded, muffler heat shield bolts welded on, etc. I got all winter, no problem! I'll update you from time to time.
 

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Well the 10227 runs and mows great, couple of more mows and I'll put it up for the winter. The 10323 is going to take awhile. Good thing I didn't try to start it. Engine and carburetor full of water, flywheel stuck on, steel parts heavily rusted, aluminum parts highly corroded, muffler heat shield bolts welded on, etc. I got all winter, no problem! I'll update you from time to time.
That piston looks pretty scored up. Also with the rust around the rings I'd pull it apart and make sure they arent stuck.
 

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Well the 10227 runs and mows great, couple of more mows and I'll put it up for the winter. The 10323 is going to take awhile. Good thing I didn't try to start it. Engine and carburetor full of water, flywheel stuck on, steel parts heavily rusted, aluminum parts highly corroded, muffler heat shield bolts welded on, etc. I got all winter, no problem! I'll update you from time to time.
Just from those pictures, I can tell you’re gonna need reeds, upper and lower crank seals, rings and probably a piston. Usually when the piston looks that bad the cylinder is scored beyond use. That said, the duraforce has a chrome plated cylinder, so if yours isn’t scored deep through the plating, you can use muriatic acid on a q tip to remove any aluminum deposits. If the piston doesn’t clean up with some light sand paper it will definitely need replacing. I think your best bet would be to find a good used short block. Running mowers with bad decks are easy to find on Craigslist for $25-50 and that would be cheaper than the parts to fix your engine. I have had lots of duraforces break the muffler guards from vibration so that would explain the welds on yours. Looking forward to watching your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Just from those pictures, I can tell you’re gonna need reeds, upper and lower crank seals, rings and probably a piston. Usually when the piston looks that bad the cylinder is scored beyond use. That said, the duraforce has a chrome plated cylinder, so if yours isn’t scored deep through the plating, you can use muriatic acid on a q tip to remove any aluminum deposits. If the piston doesn’t clean up with some light sand paper it will definitely need replacing. I think your best bet would be to find a good used short block. Running mowers with bad decks are easy to find on Craigslist for $25-50 and that would be cheaper than the parts to fix your engine. I have had lots of duraforces break the muffler guards from vibration so that would explain the welds on yours. Looking forward to watching your progress.
That piston looks pretty scored up. Also with the rust around the rings I'd pull it apart and make sure they arent stuck.
I agree with everything you say. I'll know more when I get time to break it down. I've seen some pretty bad seizures in chrome plated bores over the years wrenching on Italian kart engines and Japanese bikes. With this one being so badly neglected and worn out it may be a parts mower for the future. Could turn the 10227 into a 10304 if the drive is good, another Dura Force could show up locally, could part it out to you guys, many possibilities. As a disciple of Gordon Jennings I've always enjoyed two strokes so this is just a continuation of my time back in the day racing bikes. Just not as fast!
 

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I agree with everything you say. I'll know more when I get time to break it down. I've seen some pretty bad seizures in chrome plated bores over the years wrenching on Italian kart engines and Japanese bikes. With this one being so badly neglected and worn out it may be a parts mower for the future. Could turn the 10227 into a 10304 if the drive is good, another Dura Force could show up locally, could part it out to you guys, many possibilities. As a disciple of Gordon Jennings I've always enjoyed two strokes so this is just a continuation of my time back in the day racing bikes. Just not as fast!
To do that conversion you would need to cut a hole in the deck (belt runs under the deck for the V as opposed to on top), get the lower profile drive cover, the shorter input shaft, different cable bracket, the smaller ID engine pulley, and the dirt shield that goes underneath.

Pretty cool that you are into the old Japanese bikes, I’m only 18 but have been buying and selling my whole life. Only bikes I have on the road rn are a 1970 CB175 and a 1984 CB650 but I would love an old T350 or RD350 or S2 2 stroker. Do you still ride?
 

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Discussion Starter #30
To do that conversion you would need to cut a hole in the deck (belt runs under the deck for the V as opposed to on top), get the lower profile drive cover, the shorter input shaft, different cable bracket, the smaller ID engine pulley, and the dirt shield that goes underneath.

Pretty cool that you are into the old Japanese bikes, I’m only 18 but have been buying and selling my whole life. Only bikes I have on the road rn are a 1970 CB175 and a 1984 CB650 but I would love an old T350 or RD350 or S2 2 stroker. Do you still ride?
I had to stop riding for awhile when I turned 68 because of back problems. Got that fixed and never went back to riding on the street. I haven't raced since 1997 and never really felt that comfortable riding on the street. Woods riding was fun but couldn't compare to road racing. I follow MotoGP, WSBK, MotoAmerica and WERA on the net and TV but haven't attended a race in years. As I like to say it was the most fun you could have with your clothes on!
 
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