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I picked up 2 Lawn-Boy mowers today. Both with steel decks from the Toro era I think.

One is a 1997 push model #10227 serial #7933253 (free). The other is a 1998 self-propelled model #10323 serial #8929831 ($25). The 10227 turns over with compression but hasn't been started in a year. The 10323 is in unknown condition. It was left outside, overgrown with weeds and "discovered" by the new home owners of an abandoned house I believe. Even when holding the blade handlebar lever it pulls over hard, feels like little compression and when I pulled the plug it was whiskered, probably was seized.


I understand the 10227 has the "V" engine and is more Lawn-Boy and more desirable than the 10323 which has the DuraForce EPA1 engine which is more Toro. Do you agree?


I'll clean up and do some preliminary maintenance to the fuel system and just generally go over the 10227 first as I'm thinking it's much closer to running than the 10323.


Any insight you guys can offer would be appreciated. One question I have right off is what sparkplugs do you like. The 10227 has an NGK BPMR4A in it. The 10323 has a Champion CJ14.
 

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The 1998 10323 I own has a Lawn Boy made Duraforce engine. I also have a 1995 Toro 2 stroke push mover that definitely uses a Lawn Boy built V engine. I do not think Toro has ever built their own engines from the beginning up to the current time. Over the years Toro has used Clinton, Lauson, Briggs, Tecumseh, Power Products, Lawn Boy, Suzuki, Kawasaki, Honda and is now using Chinese Honda clone engines. I may have missed some. For spark plug I use hat the owners manual says both the brand and number. Roger
 

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The 10227 should have a Champion RJ12C or NGK BR6S. The current plug in it can be used on the 10323 if it's in good shape. Gapped at .035". For the 10227 you'll want to remove the mounting screws and add some loctite to them. V series mowers tend to get loose so it's a good measure. Check the carb for warpage at the flange as well. The 10227 has the nice thrust bearing in the bottom of the crankcase so it's smoother running than previous Vs.
 

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I picked up 2 Lawn-Boy mowers today. Both with steel decks from the Toro era I think.

One is a 1997 push model #10227 serial #7933253 (free). The other is a 1998 self-propelled model #10323 serial #8929831 ($25). The 10227 turns over with compression but hasn't been started in a year. The 10323 is in unknown condition. It was left outside, overgrown with weeds and "discovered" by the new home owners of an abandoned house I believe. Even when holding the blade handlebar lever it pulls over hard, feels like little compression and when I pulled the plug it was whiskered, probably was seized.


I understand the 10227 has the "V" engine and is more Lawn-Boy and more desirable than the 10323 which has the DuraForce EPA1 engine which is more Toro. Do you agree?


I'll clean up and do some preliminary maintenance to the fuel system and just generally go over the 10227 first as I'm thinking it's much closer to running than the 10323.


Any insight you guys can offer would be appreciated. One question I have right off is what sparkplugs do you like. The 10227 has an NGK BPMR4A in it. The 10323 has a Champion CJ14.
Either plug is acceptable.

I would take a DuraForce engine over a V any day. Better built engine in my opinion.
 

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DF for me too. I’ve owned Vs before and they sound like they are ready to let loose at any time. A rejetted DF will almost mow anything down.
 

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I have not used/owned a V motor but my DuraForce is a beast. Don't knock it 'til you've tried it, as the saying goes.
 

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I picked up 2 Lawn-Boy mowers today. Both with steel decks from the Toro era I think.

One is a 1997 push model #10227 serial #7933253 (free). The other is a 1998 self-propelled model #10323 serial #8929831 ($25). The 10227 turns over with compression but hasn't been started in a year. The 10323 is in unknown condition. It was left outside, overgrown with weeds and "discovered" by the new home owners of an abandoned house I believe. Even when holding the blade handlebar lever it pulls over hard, feels like little compression and when I pulled the plug it was whiskered, probably was seized.


I understand the 10227 has the "V" engine and is more Lawn-Boy and more desirable than the 10323 which has the DuraForce EPA1 engine which is more Toro. Do you agree?


I'll clean up and do some preliminary maintenance to the fuel system and just generally go over the 10227 first as I'm thinking it's much closer to running than the 10323.


Any insight you guys can offer would be appreciated. One question I have right off is what sparkplugs do you like. The 10227 has an NGK BPMR4A in it. The 10323 has a Champion CJ14.
Nice finds for sure. I have owned many of both of those mowers, and everybody on here knows I favor the V engines, but I ran a couple 10323s for a few years and they were far more reliable than any of my Vs and slightly more powerful. By no stretch of the imagination is the V engine more desirable than the DF, from my experiences here on the forum and selling on Craigslist I would say just the opposite. I always run champion CJ8s in my duraforces, I like the Bosch plugs in my Vs, the recommended CJ12s are a little longer and get in my way when switching from bagging and mulching etc. That said, the 10314 I ran for the last year had an old rusty RJ19LM in it when I got it, and it runs perfectly and is burning the perfect color. I wouldn’t worry too much about plugs.

Getting the 10227 ready to go, like somebody above mentioned, make sure the carburetor isn’t warped with a straightedge. Make sure the governor is still intact where the throttle cable pushes and pulls on top of the carb, I've had to super glue the metal guide to keep it from popping out. Make sure the engine and baseplate are tight, use loctite as necessary. Same with the bolts for the recoil shroud and it’s mounting plate. Pull the muffler, check the ports, make sure the baffle is good and tighten it good. I’ve had many muffler bolts vibrate out into the blade (not a good time). If you have that trouble, a good idea is to take a couple little strips of metal, drill holes for the muffler bolts, and fold the ends over the flats on the bolt heads as lock tabs. If you have the blade off, make sure you time it to rise and fall opposite the piston (set the piston at TDC and put the blade perpendicular to the cylinder). It makes a big difference with vibration. If you notice excessive side play in the crank, the crank bearings often go bad in those motors as well, not a huge deal but something to note. There’s nothing you can do about end play, every V has the “thunk” when you squeeze the bail, but for that reason I always let mine out slowly. Hopefully some of this information is useful, I have a shed full of Vs so I have a lot so say about them...lol...good luck getting yours going
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thank you for all the replies and info, I'll update this thread as I go along, I'm not in any hurry so it may take me time but we'll get these two going like new.
 

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I am not familiar with the V series. Are they more similar to the F series or the Duraforce? If more similar to the F series the Lawnboy manual recommends orienting the blade on an F series parallel to the piston, not perpendicular. The D series are oriented perpendicular. Please confirm for future reference. Thanks! Bill
 

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The Vs are a bit of a hot rod F series. I believe some of the Duraforce developement was done by Tecumseh in the 1990s. Never seen anything about blade position. Roger
 

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I have a owners manual (downloaded). It doesn't say anything about blade orientation as 95lawnboy mentioned but it is something easy enough to try so I think I will. I've started the clean up, will post pictures, before and after later today.
 

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Started cleaning things up yesterday. Previous owner said it smoked a lot. Clogged air cleaner and two out of three exhaust ports were plugged. Blade actually doesn't seem worn, don't know how long he had it or how much he used it. Everything came apart easily. Exhaust bolts were all loose, one almost ready to hit blade. Don't think he ever cleaned exhaust or sharpened blade.
 

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I am not familiar with the V series. Are they more similar to the F series or the Duraforce? If more similar to the F series the Lawnboy manual recommends orienting the blade on an F series parallel to the piston, not perpendicular. The D series are oriented perpendicular. Please confirm for future reference. Thanks! Bill
I have the service manual somewhere and I believe it was mentioned in there. Not 100% sure but it sure works for me. You are correct about the F series being timed in line with the piston. The V engine is just an F crank, piston and rod in a differently shaped block, but a bit of a different animal.
 

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I have the service manual somewhere and I believe it was mentioned in there. Not 100% sure but it sure works for me. You are correct about the F series being timed in line with the piston. The V engine is just an F crank, piston and rod in a differently shaped block, but a bit of a different animal.
Section 9, page 13, in the online service manual. Also it is in the Lawnboy Service Manual in print. Bill

https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball40.pdf
 

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Section 9, page 13, in the online service manual. Also it is in the Lawnboy Service Manual in print. Bill

https://lookup3.toro.com/ttcGateway/acrobat/manuals/lball40.pdf
The link you posted is just for the D and F engines tho,

I just checked the V service manual and from what I see it just says install the blade and torque it. Not sure where I heard that, but it sure works. Again I totally agree the F should be timed in line with the piston. I’m definitely not a “by the book” mechanic just saying what has worked well for me.
 

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I know that thanks! It was mentioned that the V was most similar to the F so I figured the F specs on blade alignment would apply. Who knows? Bill

Sent from my SM-J320R4 using MyTractorForum Free App mobile app
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Here's a few more pictures. Everything is cleaning up well except for the muffler, carbon was really baked on. I'll finish it up tomorrow. Carb flange seems straight. Nice thing about plastic is how well it cleans up. I'm not going to repaint now, just spray with Total Boat Rust Primer, have used it on many things over the years and it's never failed me.
Interesting info about timing the blade differently, I'll have to get a copy of the service manual, what I have now is an owner's manual, doesn't talk about timing blade at all.
 

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Here's a few more pictures. Everything is cleaning up well except for the muffler, carbon was really baked on. I'll finish it up tomorrow. Carb flange seems straight. Nice thing about plastic is how well it cleans up. I'm not going to repaint now, just spray with Total Boat Rust Primer, have used it on many things over the years and it's never failed me.
Interesting info about timing the blade differently, I'll have to get a copy of the service manual, what I have now is an owner's manual, doesn't talk about timing blade at all.
Everything looks great there, these pre 98 decks seem to be made of better steel and will last you a long time especially protected. I can add a link to the service manual, was just giving my advice on blade timing it does work well I have been doing it for years not trying to mislead you sorry if we hijacked your thread debating lol
 

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Everything looks great there, these pre 98 decks seem to be made of better steel and will last you a long time especially protected. I can add a link to the service manual, was just giving my advice on blade timing it does work well I have been doing it for years not trying to mislead you sorry if we hijacked your thread debating lol
Hi Jacked the thread? Not at all. the more info the better, and please do add a link to the service manual for both of them if you would, I'm looking to learn as much as possible, who knows what I may have to do to either one of these mowers before I'm done!
 

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