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Hello everyone! Just bought myself a LB 10600 locally. Seller showed me the mower, started on first pull. When I was about to use it, it took me a few more pulls to start until I became more familiar with the machine (this is my first LB). Well, I used for about 20 minutes and it ran fine until it developed a few issues. It starts, but the engine hesitates a bit, but once I move the lever to full throttle it will cut off. Even with the lever halfway, it will run but it stops as soon as it cuts some grass. Any thought? Thanks.
 

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Welcome to 2 strokes. Sounds like a vacuum leak. Generic advice would be to tighten the carb bolts. It is carb related and they are plastic and tend to warp , Nice looking mower Smarter people will offer better advice . 32:1 is the gas/oil ratio. don' be tempted by the 100:1 " performance oil" :D
 

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Welcome to 2 strokes. Sounds like a vacuum leak. Generic advice would be to tighten the carb bolts. It is carb related and they are plastic and tend to warp , Nice looking mower Smarter people will offer better advice . 32:1 is the gas/oil ratio. don' be tempted by the 100:1 " performance oil" :D
Thanks for the advice. I've done some research and the carburetor listed in the parts list is part # 684352 or Walbro LMR-10. Looking at the pics, it seems to be metal, although I've seen some images of plastic carburetors as well. Maybe they used both in this model? I will check on the bolts as you mentioned and the filter as well.
 

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Hi and welcome to the forum. If your mower has a metal carb then it is either a 1993 or 1994. In 1995 they changed to the plastic carb. My 10401 from 1996 never ran right until I swapped in a metal Walbro carb. Things to check. There should be a small filter in the carb where the fuel hose attaches. Remove, clean and reinstall. Check that the throttle cable is adjusted properly. Pretty sure your has a choke so remove the air filter and loosen the adjustment bolt and while looking in the carb opening, and with the throttle lever on full choke, adjust the cable so the choke butterfly is just closed when the lever is all the way on choke. Also yours has an adjustment needle on the side of the carb. I cant remember for sure what the pre set is but normally you would lightly seat the needle and turn it out 2 to 2 1/2 turns. Start the mower and let it warm up. Turn the needle in 1/2 turn at a time, allowing for engine to stabilize between turns. Continue until engine starts to falter, then back out 1/4 turn at a time allowing the engine to stabilize each time. Once you get it to where it is running smooth again back it out another 1/4 to half turn. You don't want to run a two cycle at best (smoothest) lean setting. Better a little rich. Of course all this is assuming the carb is clean, all gaskets in good shape, etc. You will love that mower once you get it dialed in. Keep us posted with your progress. Good luck! Bill
 

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Nice 10600. Yours is in much better shape than mine is. I don't see a primer bulb hiding behind the engine guard so it must be a 93 or 94 with the walbro. Which is good news as it is a superior carburetor to the plastic ones.
 

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Hi and welcome to the forum. If your mower has a metal carb then it is either a 1993 or 1994. In 1995 they changed to the plastic carb. My 10401 from 1996 never ran right until I swapped in a metal Walbo carb. Things to check. There should be a small filter in the carb where the fuel hose attaches. Remove, clean and reinstall. Check that the throttle cable is adjusted properly. Pretty sure your has a choke so remove the air filter and loosen the adjustment bolt and while looking in the carb opening, and with the throttle lever on full choke, adjust the cable so the choke butterfly is just closed when the lever is all the way on choke. Also yours has an adjustment needle on the side of the carb. I cant remember for sure what the pre set is but normally you would lightly seat the needle and turn it out 2 to 2 1/2 turns. Start the mower and let it warm up. Turn the needle in 1/2 turn at a time, allowing for engine to stabilize between turns. Continue until engine starts to falter, then back out 1/4 turn at a time allowing the engine to stabilize each time. Once you get it to where it is running smooth again back it out another 1/4 to half turn. You don't want to run a two cycle at best (smoothest) lean setting. Better a little rich. Of course all this is assuming the carb is clean, all gaskets in good shape, etc. You will love that mower once you get it dialed in. Keep us posted with your progress. Good luck! Bill
Hey Bill,

Thank you for your in-depth reply with instructions. Much appreciated. I will try to clean the carburetor and follow your instructions. When breaking down the carburetor for cleaning, how far should I go? I have seen videos where they remove the bowl and the float and needle. That's it. Then they clean all orifices. Is it safe to dip the whole thing in carburetor cleaner solution or even do an ultrasonic cleaning? I did check the carb and it is the metal one.

I also took a picture of the lever. The engine dies with the lever in the choke position so that is used only when the engine is cold? Sorry for this basic questions, but I'm a fast learner. Thanks

Carlos
 

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Yes, choke is used when the engine is cold. As for cleaning, you can definitely clean it in an ultrasonic once you've got the bowl, float and needle out. I've done it and seen it done in many a video online.
 

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Welcome to the forum! Your mower is powered by one of the better versions of the "F" series with the metal walbro carburetor. The adjustment may have been tampered with over time making your machine run lean.

These usually like to run at between 5/8-3/4 turns out on the adjustment screw. Start at 5/8 and if it's harder to start cold turn it another eighth to quarter turn out.

If the adjustment seems fine a carb service may be in order. Also check for leaks from your oil seals try tend to go bad after 10-20 years. Hopefully this helps!

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Quick question: would a F100 engine from a 7268 work on the 10600? There is one currently for sale and I thought I'd keep a spare.
 

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Well that is a good question. The short answer is no. The F-100 from the 7268 is pre compliant. No bail and no throttle cables like the 10600. My guess would be that the 7268 complete engine "may" bolt up to the deck, but not sure if just the short block could be used to accept the engine cover from the 10600. Also the 7268 shroud may interfere with the commercial gas tank if used together. Doesn't sound like an easy substitution. Bill
 

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Quick question: would a F100 engine from a 7268 work on the 10600? There is one currently for sale and I thought I'd keep a spare.
Yes it is possible. The main difference in both engines is that one has a brake assembly and the other is pre compliance meaning no brake. Everything from your 10600 F series will bolt up (carburetor, flywheel, coil, brake system and shrouding) and it'll work. I retrofitted a 1990 compliance model into a precompliance by removing the brake and adding the correct era of parts and it runs great with no problems. The 7268 and 10600 both have the same the piston, rings and cylinder so you won't loose any power from using the older engine.

LB90/Seth
 
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