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Hello,

I am a new owner of a E110 with 24 hours. I did not pay very much for it as I got it from a family friend who's father in law passed away. I know these is a very basic entry level of Deere and is no where need as ruggedly built as my old 185 hydro but the 185 has its fair share of issues now too and my wife won't operate that one. The E110 is definitely more nimble and easier to turn than the 185. While I know some people consider these a throw away model, I'd still like to try and make it last as long as possible.

Our yard is ~1/3 acre and one part has a small incline but not very much and 80% is flat. I don't plan to use any ground implements with it since I have a toro snow blower. I don't have a huge yard, and I normally push the included area with my toro SR4 since that's the front of the house. The back gets the rider and is all flat. I also help mow my neighbors yard periodically.

I plan to performance an oil change, change the spark plug, sharpen blades and grease the deck bearings. I've read that the weak point in these is the K40 or TL-200 transmission. When should I dump the factory 10w-30 for some 5w-50? I also have 0w-40 on hand that I could put in the transmission.

It has the 19hp single cylinder B&S, 33R877 (M33), which I think is part of their professional intek line up. I've read this is better than the older 19.5 B&S single cylinders in previous line ups. Any experience with this engine model? I plan to use 87 E0 fuel with a dose of stabil (I buy 5 gallons at a time and always treat it just in case). I'm going to use a HDEO 10w-30 or M1 0w-40 since they have a higher HTHS than regular passenger car motor oil.
 

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I guess I should say welcome back, your registration says 2013 so you were here some time ago! Still the same friendly forum with a lot of information and great members to help and share with. The site has changed significantly as we got new site software in 2019 so here is some site navigation assistance in case you need it:

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Sounds like your yard should be no real issue for the E110. Just do the prescribed maintenance on it and you'll be fine. Did you get any manuals with it?
 

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Intek is consumer grade in my opinion. I’d contact Tuff-Torq for fluid options if not using the 5w50.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I guess I should say welcome back, your registration says 2013 so you were here some time ago! Still the same friendly forum with a lot of information and great members to help and share with. The site has changed significantly as we got new site software in 2019 so here is some site navigation assistance in case you need it:

View attachment 2492300


Sounds like your yard should be no real issue for the E110. Just do the prescribed maintenance on it and you'll be fine. Did you get any manuals with it?
Thanks for the info on the site upgrades!

Yes, I have all the manuals and the original bill of sale.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Intek is consumer grade in my opinion. I’d contact Tuff-Torq for fluid options if not using the 5w50.
Of course it is, its a consumer grader lawn mower after all. At least the professional series is a little better than the standard intek. Wish it had a Kawasaki but it is what it is.
 

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Hi Volk06,

Yours isn't even broken-in yet! According to JD, the hydro oil is good for the life of the mower. Take that with a grain of salt. The TT site used to have a recommendation of an initial hydro oil change at 50 hours and every subsequent 200 hours of operation. I followed that on my L120's original K46HD and when I replaced it with a K66 to do ground engagement work, I did the same with the K66. It's now at 636.3 hours and I'm going out in a few minutes to blow snow with it, so I have no complaints. I use 5W-50 synthetic. You use what you feel comfortable with. It can get cold here in the Lehigh Valley, so I like to keep the first number low.

My L120 has the B&S 20HP V-Twin, so I can't comment on the mill in your E-110.

Oh, since your mowing area is flat, plan on that mower lasting as long as you like. With care, they'll last a lifetime.:)

Good luck with your "new" machine.

~Paul
 
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It sounds like the E110 would be a fine match for your intended use. It also sounds like you are knowledgeable about mechanical things. Replacing the oil on the transaxle is not easy. You have to remove the transaxle in order to do it. With your use, you might put 20-30 hours a year on it. If you keep the transaxle reasonably clean, I'll bet it will last at least a decade with no additional service.

The low end Tuff Torque transaxles get a bad rap many places. Some of that is deserved, but much of it comes from people assuming (because they bought a Deere) they have a much more capable machine than they really do and using it in ways that far exceed what it can do safely.

Oil is one of those things that a lot of people have strong opinions on. I believe enough and clean enough are the most important. I have heard people who sweat by diesel oil (because it has more zinc). Diesel doesn't really need special oil, but cars with catalytic converters place limits on what additives can be in the oil. So while you can use diesel oil in non-catalyitic converter engine, if you use it in an engine that has one, you will damage/ruin the converter over time. There is also the synthetic vs dyno oil debate. Most agree that synthetic is better, but costs more.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
It sounds like the E110 would be a fine match for your intended use. It also sounds like you are knowledgeable about mechanical things. Replacing the oil on the transaxle is not easy. You have to remove the transaxle in order to do it. With your use, you might put 20-30 hours a year on it. If you keep the transaxle reasonably clean, I'll bet it will last at least a decade with no additional service.

The low end Tuff Torque transaxles get a bad rap many places. Some of that is deserved, but much of it comes from people assuming (because they bought a Deere) they have a much more capable machine than they really do and using it in ways that far exceed what it can do safely.

Oil is one of those things that a lot of people have strong opinions on. I believe enough and clean enough are the most important. I have heard people who sweat by diesel oil (because it has more zinc). Diesel doesn't really need special oil, but cars with catalytic converters place limits on what additives can be in the oil. So while you can use diesel oil in non-catalyitic converter engine, if you use it in an engine that has one, you will damage/ruin the converter over time. There is also the synthetic vs dyno oil debate. Most agree that synthetic is better, but costs more.
Yeah, i saw that removing the transmission is a pain but not bad if you have the tools to do so. A floor jack, jack stands and some decent tools look like the basic requirement. It sounds like I shouldn't be overloading the E110 based off of your comments.
 

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Just mowing a flat area is fine. I have done that plus some slope areas on my X300 with a similar transaxle for 13 years and it is still fine. I upgraded to an X534 because I wanted diff lock and to do some light ground engagement work.

I think changing the oil is a good idea. TT does recommend it at 50 hours (to get rid of any early wear and then every 200 or so hours). It probably takes a few hours the first time you remove and replace the transaxle and change the oil. You have to make sure you practice excellent cleanliness or you can do more harm than good.
 

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Of course it is, its a consumer grader lawn mower after all. At least the professional series is a little better than the standard intek. Wish it had a Kawasaki but it is what it is.
What exactly is different between a professional series Intek and regular Intek?

With the right tools transmission fluid change isn’t to bad. TT makes a kit to put a drain plug in the pan now.
 

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TT makes a kit to put a drain plug in the pan now.
Sounds like a great idea, but how do you make a hole in the case (and tap it) without getting any metal particles in the case?

I know many people think Deere made a mistake by not including a way to easily change the transaxle oil. But, I am fairly convinced that they did their research before doing that. It was probably a combination of: most people wouldn't change it anyway, some people would make it worse by getting dirt in the system, they could save a little bit of money, they could make it seem like their machine doesn't need service (many cars now don't need a tune-up for 100K miles, why should a lawnmower), people who really want an easily serviceable transaxle will pay more to get one and Deere will sell them one. It is like many things. Many people focus so much on initial purchase cost they miss out on better products. I know that was my thinking when I first looked. I had in mind around $1000 for a mower, ie 100 series. I ended up with an X300. I probably should have bought an X500 series, but I really didn't know what I needed and the sales person went for the easy upgrade instead of the much harder one at 5X what I had been expecting to pay. Had I bought the 100 series, I probably would have upgraded much sooner, but maybe not to another Deere (if I had a really bad experience).
 

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Split case when you drain oil for the first time by dropping transmission. All future fluid changes can be done without dropping transmission.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
What exactly is different between a professional series Intek and regular Intek?

With the right tools transmission fluid change isn’t to bad. TT makes a kit to put a drain plug in the pan now.
Cast iron sleeves and a few other "upgrades" from the regular intek engines.
 

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Split case when you drain oil for the first time by dropping transmission. All future fluid changes can be done without dropping transmission.
I'm not being snarky, but how do you accomplish this with no good way to refill it on a 100 series tractor?
 

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A couple ways come to mind. I’d have no problem drilling a small hole above fill hole and use funnel with a fuel line attached to it. Pop cap off (you’ll have to do from underneath) and slide hose through it. You could get fancy and buy a grommet from hardware store and make it look factory.

Or one of those hand vacuum pumps or even an air one if you want to go fancy.

No offense on questioning me.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thoughts on 20x10x8 vs 20x8x8 rear tires? The mower has 20x8x8 on the rears right now. I have a good set of 20x10x8 rears that I was planning to put on the old 185. Would there be a benefit to swapping them out or should I just leave the 8s on it?
 
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