Grille may be different but the part number for an LTX1050 was the same as for your GTX 2000 on Partstree. I checked it the other day. Feel free to check my work.Does it use a different black insert around the lights, that you'd need to swap somehow? (Edit- I suppose the lights area doesn't contact anything, so that's just cosmetic, rather than risking causing an interference under the hood)
My headlights are a different shape than the ones in your picture. Towards the center of the hood, my lights are angled, while those look more square.
The hood may be compatible, I don't know. But that one doesn't look identical, at least, to me.
Regardless, it's great to know if there are some options for inexpensive hoods. I've seen enough pricey JD hoods discussions to be a bit gun-shy about that sort of damage.
I fear driving into something and crunching the hood, above the (solid, but short) bumper. Still getting my feet used to the fact that pushing harder usually makes you go faster, vs my last tractor where the only pedal was the brake/clutch. And here, the brake pedal is so high that I can't really just rest my left foot on it.
Good idea. Post some pics up when you do it. I may do the same modThe parts list (downloaded from Cub) for my tractor (14W-3FM-010) shows 931-08482. The grille is 931-04563A, so it looks like that is a separate part that could presumably be swapped around if needed.
Ahh, I see that my part # has been replaced with the 931-06634A number you listed. Cool, it's great to know that other parts might be available to substitute. The hood came up as around $200, so if you could get a used one (with grille, etc) for $50 or so, that sounds pretty nice.
Oh, I have some soft, adhesive bumpers, for putting on cabinet doors (to reduce banging). I may try putting some of those on the underside of the hood, to give it some soft stops, and prevent the hood itself from wearing against the console.
Great post RO. Those springs look much better than the factory 747 nose wheel seat springs.All my parts finally came in, so yesterday they gave me something to do.
I got the aluminum exhaust heat shield installed easily, thank you Steve, for mentioning that they've added that on the XT3!
Last weekend I changed the engine oil and filter (using a Kohler filter, and their 10W-30 synthetic blend). I made a heck of a mess removing the oil filter, I had not put enough paper towels under it. And the Kohler manual's wording is a bit vague, for the new filter. They say to fill the new filter with oil "up to the threads". But of course the filter is horizontal (I think even including for the vertical-shaft Commands). If you filled it like a glass, up to the threads, it would dump everywhere when you went to install it. I poured in enough oil that it was just below the threads when you put the filter horizontally, so nothing spills. Then rotated it around to let it soak into the filtration media, as they instruct. I put a bit of teflon thread-sealant paste on the oil drain plug threads, since that was seeping a bit of oil, even though it was tight. I also added a hose clamp at the end of that rubber line, since I was paranoid about the drain fitting coming off the hose.
I also started changing the tranny oil last weekend, but my Wix 51410 filter would not thread on. It would start, and then bind up, as others (including Steve) have seen. I ordered the Cub OEM filter (923-3014) and that went on nicely. So the Wix no longer seems to be a good substitute, though I can't really check its threads; both filters seem to claim 3/4-16 threads. I installed a magnetic drain plug, Needa 652166, about $5 at Autozone, and used Rotella T6 15W-40 synthetic oil. This thread has a lot of good info on tranny oil changes for these:
200 hr. Hydrostatic Transmission Oil Change
I also installed my mulching kit, 19A70016100. I did it without removing the deck, which was a mistake, and made the process much harder. But I got it done, and mowed this morning. It seemed to cut well, but it's been very hot and dry, so the grass isn't growing much. More feedback from users, and info on my kit-installation, here:
Mulching with fabricated decks?
Oh, I also installed new softer seat springs. I used Cub spring 732-05182A, which I read about here, since they are carried by my local parts place. My place does not seem to carry the 3000-series springs you'd mentioned, Steve, so I figured I'd try these:
Hard riding seats - Garden Tractors Forum
They are taller than stock (see pic), but softer, and installation was easy. I slid some cardboard under the carriage bolts, to keep the bolts pressed into the square cutouts while removing/installing the nuts.
I did add some fender washers under the nuts, since these springs are meant to have a nut hold them down, but I'd guess these machines used a larger diameter thread and nut, so the nuts risked falling through the hole.
They don't make the machine a Cadillac, but it's a definite improvement, and worth the ~$15, IMO. I can get measurements of them if it's useful (even to run through a spring calculator, to compare stiffnesses).
I'm really like the tractor, and I love the tight turning radius, and the ability to smoothly & quickly transition between forward and reverse, while having reverse-mowing enabled (and the power steering making it easy to steer). That's much more fluid than my old machine: stop fully, shift to reverse, creep backwards, stop fully, shift to 3rd, go forward, stop fully, shift to reverse.....
I do want to take a look at how the engine shrouds come off, though, to check that the fins are clear. It always seems hotter than I'd expect under the hood. Though on my current tractor, I'm rarely popping the hood anyhow, so I don't have much to compare with. Despite roughly the same power (19.5 vs 20hp), this engine is driving a 48" deck vs 42", and the hydro must add more load as well, so this engine is working harder.
Apologies for the long posts. I'm trying to share my experiences, but also put in enough info that this can perhaps be useful for someone else in the future. There aren't as many GT / GTX threads, vs XT3, or at least not that I've found. And I found very little info on the mulch kits.
View attachment 2464102 View attachment 2464103
Those are my impressions as well except for the steering not keeping up. I lube all non zerk pivot points with PTFE dry lubeWell in the words of the McDonald's jingle, "I'm lovin' it!".
The machine had to take last weekend off, but I got to mow today at lunch. It's doing great.
The last few weeks have been hot, so the grass isn't growing terribly fast. But this took 1/3 off my mowing time, vs times with my previous geared tractor. I attribute that to:
The softer seat springs have definitely helped, as well. We'll see if I want to make any other changes with that, but they're a big improvement.
- 48" vs 42" deck helps, of course.
- Ability to change speeds on the fly, and go quicker where the grass is thin, then slow down in dense areas. Previously, I'd do pretty much everything in the gear that was best-suited to most of the yard.
- Much faster maneuverability, smoothly and quickly changing between forward and reverse.
- Tighter, and power, steering making tight turns easier and faster.
- Not needing to fiddle with stuff each time you need to mow in reverse (my last tractor would also mow in reverse, but I know that some make that more of a process, so I'm happy with this feature).
Afterwards, I felt the tranny, it was definitely warm to the touch, but that was it. Not hot. Maybe, I don't know, 110F tops? From what I understand, ideally you should be able to hold your hand on the tranny housing, and it easily passed that test. Not that I expected it to be overloaded, but just wanted to check.
Areas that could be better? The power steering doesn't always keep up sometimes, with fast steering. Rotate the wheel at a certain speed and it's effortless, but go too-fast, and you presumably max out the assist, and you feel it get heavier. I'm still getting used to that limit. But that is certainly "first world problems."
I need to remember to re-check fluid levels, just to make sure everything is as-expected, after changing them recently.
I'm at 12.6-12.9. 2016 model GT with factory batteryInteresting, thanks. That's good to know.
Likewise, I have greased all the fittings, and have sprayed the other moving steering items with dry Teflon lube. To try and help them slide, without attracting grit.
I don't know what might cause differences between machines, with this. An interesting test might be to jack the front of mine off the ground (or at least take some weight off the front wheels) and spin the steering wheel, to see if the power assist can only move so fast, perhaps. But the force involved would be smaller than normal.
Curious, what do you see for voltage when you first start yours? Today at mid throttle, I think it showed 12.1V. I have my headlights disconnected.