My Tractor Forum banner

41 - 55 of 55 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #41
Thanks, I did see that listed somewhere while looking at parts lists.

For now, I'm going to stick with it as-is, and hope that my feet will get used to the new setup. And just be extra mindful in the few yard areas where something could hit the hood.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
15,897 Posts
I will Buy a New Hood section as I Might Buy the Hood for the GTX2154LE with White Top & Yellow sides (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: oefveteran

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,964 Posts
Does it use a different black insert around the lights, that you'd need to swap somehow? (Edit- I suppose the lights area doesn't contact anything, so that's just cosmetic, rather than risking causing an interference under the hood)

My headlights are a different shape than the ones in your picture. Towards the center of the hood, my lights are angled, while those look more square.

The hood may be compatible, I don't know. But that one doesn't look identical, at least, to me.

Regardless, it's great to know if there are some options for inexpensive hoods. I've seen enough pricey JD hoods discussions to be a bit gun-shy about that sort of damage.

I fear driving into something and crunching the hood, above the (solid, but short) bumper. Still getting my feet used to the fact that pushing harder usually makes you go faster, vs my last tractor where the only pedal was the brake/clutch. And here, the brake pedal is so high that I can't really just rest my left foot on it.
Grille may be different but the part number for an LTX1050 was the same as for your GTX 2000 on Partstree. I checked it the other day. Feel free to check my work.
Part# 931-06634A
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
The parts list (downloaded from Cub) for my tractor (14W-3FM-010) shows 931-08482. The grille is 931-04563A, so it looks like that is a separate part that could presumably be swapped around if needed.

Ahh, I see that my part # has been replaced with the 931-06634A number you listed. Cool, it's great to know that other parts might be available to substitute. The hood came up as around $200, so if you could get a used one (with grille, etc) for $50 or so, that sounds pretty nice.

Oh, I have some soft, adhesive bumpers, for putting on cabinet doors (to reduce banging). I may try putting some of those on the underside of the hood, to give it some soft stops, and prevent the hood itself from wearing against the console.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,964 Posts
The parts list (downloaded from Cub) for my tractor (14W-3FM-010) shows 931-08482. The grille is 931-04563A, so it looks like that is a separate part that could presumably be swapped around if needed.

Ahh, I see that my part # has been replaced with the 931-06634A number you listed. Cool, it's great to know that other parts might be available to substitute. The hood came up as around $200, so if you could get a used one (with grille, etc) for $50 or so, that sounds pretty nice.

Oh, I have some soft, adhesive bumpers, for putting on cabinet doors (to reduce banging). I may try putting some of those on the underside of the hood, to give it some soft stops, and prevent the hood itself from wearing against the console.
Good idea. Post some pics up when you do it. I may do the same mod
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
I haven't tried adding the cabinet bumpers yet. But I do still have strips of soft adhesive foam stuck to the underside of the hood, in those contact areas.

I got in some good tractor time today, using it to move around my utility trailer. I'd picked up a yard of screened loam, and had to bring the trailer around in the yard, to distribute the dirt onto low areas. The tractor did nicely. After dumping at the first area, I tried driving the trailer up the incline in the yard, which also went fine. I just heard the tranny make some extra noise, but it went right up.

Funnily, the only time I had a tire spin was when I was backing the empty trailer under the deck. When the trailer wheels got to the raised edging, I spun a tire. Pulling forward again and getting a little running start took care of it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #47
I got my third yard of dirt picked up, and spread, today.

The only hiccup was when backing the loaded trailer to the edge of the driveway, to dump some there. I went too far, and got the trailer wheels off the driveway. This time, when they loaded the trailer, the dirt was shifted further back, so there was less tongue weight. I didn't have enough traction to pull the trailer back up onto the driveway, just got some tranny whine, then started spinning a tire on the pavement. Once I unloaded some of the dirt at the back of the trailer, the combination of less total weight, and more tongue weight, let me pull the trailer back onto the driveway.

After the seats discussion, I was doing some more reading. My local parts place does not carry the 3xxx seat spring I saw mentioned, 732-1163, I think. But they carry a different one, 732-05182A, which I saw mentioned elsewhere as a softer option:
Hard riding seats - Garden Tractors Forum

My local place is a nice source, since their prices are good, and I can pick them up for free at the store, saving ~$8/order. So I ordered 2 of the 732-05182A springs. They at least seem to have the smaller-diameter coils at one end, so hopefully they'll just bolt on like the stock springs.

I still haven't changed fluids yet. I might get Rotella T6 15W-40 for the tranny, instead of the Mobil 1 15W-50 that I'd bought for that purpose. That topic is certainly a rabbit-hole of reading!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #48
All my parts finally came in, so yesterday they gave me something to do.

I got the aluminum exhaust heat shield installed easily, thank you Steve, for mentioning that they've added that on the XT3!

Last weekend I changed the engine oil and filter (using a Kohler filter, and their 10W-30 synthetic blend). I made a heck of a mess removing the oil filter, I had not put enough paper towels under it. And the Kohler manual's wording is a bit vague, for the new filter. They say to fill the new filter with oil "up to the threads". But of course the filter is horizontal (I think even including for the vertical-shaft Commands). If you filled it like a glass, up to the threads, it would dump everywhere when you went to install it. I poured in enough oil that it was just below the threads when you put the filter horizontally, so nothing spills. Then rotated it around to let it soak into the filtration media, as they instruct. I put a bit of teflon thread-sealant paste on the oil drain plug threads, since that was seeping a bit of oil, even though it was tight. I also added a hose clamp at the end of that rubber line, since I was paranoid about the drain fitting coming off the hose.

I also started changing the tranny oil last weekend, but my Wix 51410 filter would not thread on. It would start, and then bind up, as others (including Steve) have seen. I ordered the Cub OEM filter (923-3014) and that went on nicely. So the Wix no longer seems to be a good substitute, though I can't really check its threads; both filters seem to claim 3/4-16 threads. I installed a magnetic drain plug, Needa 652166, about $5 at Autozone, and used Rotella T6 15W-40 synthetic oil. This thread has a lot of good info on tranny oil changes for these:
200 hr. Hydrostatic Transmission Oil Change

I also installed my mulching kit, 19A70016100. I did it without removing the deck, which was a mistake, and made the process much harder. But I got it done, and mowed this morning. It seemed to cut well, but it's been very hot and dry, so the grass isn't growing much. More feedback from users, and info on my kit-installation, here:
Mulching with fabricated decks?

Oh, I also installed new softer seat springs. I used Cub spring 732-05182A, which I read about here, since they are carried by my local parts place. My place does not seem to carry the 3000-series springs you'd mentioned, Steve, so I figured I'd try these:
Hard riding seats - Garden Tractors Forum

They are taller than stock (see pic), but softer, and installation was easy. I slid some cardboard under the carriage bolts, to keep the bolts pressed into the square cutouts while removing/installing the nuts.

I did add some fender washers under the nuts, since these springs are meant to have a nut hold them down, but I'd guess these machines used a larger diameter thread and nut, so the nuts risked falling through the hole.

They don't make the machine a Cadillac, but it's a definite improvement, and worth the ~$15, IMO. I can get measurements of them if it's useful (even to run through a spring calculator, to compare stiffnesses).

I'm really like the tractor, and I love the tight turning radius, and the ability to smoothly & quickly transition between forward and reverse, while having reverse-mowing enabled (and the power steering making it easy to steer). That's much more fluid than my old machine: stop fully, shift to reverse, creep backwards, stop fully, shift to 3rd, go forward, stop fully, shift to reverse.....

I do want to take a look at how the engine shrouds come off, though, to check that the fins are clear. It always seems hotter than I'd expect under the hood. Though on my current tractor, I'm rarely popping the hood anyhow, so I don't have much to compare with. Despite roughly the same power (19.5 vs 20hp), this engine is driving a 48" deck vs 42", and the hydro must add more load as well, so this engine is working harder.

Apologies for the long posts. I'm trying to share my experiences, but also put in enough info that this can perhaps be useful for someone else in the future. There aren't as many GT / GTX threads, vs XT3, or at least not that I've found. And I found very little info on the mulch kits.

Seat springs.jpg Seat springs 2.jpg
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,964 Posts
All my parts finally came in, so yesterday they gave me something to do.

I got the aluminum exhaust heat shield installed easily, thank you Steve, for mentioning that they've added that on the XT3!

Last weekend I changed the engine oil and filter (using a Kohler filter, and their 10W-30 synthetic blend). I made a heck of a mess removing the oil filter, I had not put enough paper towels under it. And the Kohler manual's wording is a bit vague, for the new filter. They say to fill the new filter with oil "up to the threads". But of course the filter is horizontal (I think even including for the vertical-shaft Commands). If you filled it like a glass, up to the threads, it would dump everywhere when you went to install it. I poured in enough oil that it was just below the threads when you put the filter horizontally, so nothing spills. Then rotated it around to let it soak into the filtration media, as they instruct. I put a bit of teflon thread-sealant paste on the oil drain plug threads, since that was seeping a bit of oil, even though it was tight. I also added a hose clamp at the end of that rubber line, since I was paranoid about the drain fitting coming off the hose.

I also started changing the tranny oil last weekend, but my Wix 51410 filter would not thread on. It would start, and then bind up, as others (including Steve) have seen. I ordered the Cub OEM filter (923-3014) and that went on nicely. So the Wix no longer seems to be a good substitute, though I can't really check its threads; both filters seem to claim 3/4-16 threads. I installed a magnetic drain plug, Needa 652166, about $5 at Autozone, and used Rotella T6 15W-40 synthetic oil. This thread has a lot of good info on tranny oil changes for these:
200 hr. Hydrostatic Transmission Oil Change

I also installed my mulching kit, 19A70016100. I did it without removing the deck, which was a mistake, and made the process much harder. But I got it done, and mowed this morning. It seemed to cut well, but it's been very hot and dry, so the grass isn't growing much. More feedback from users, and info on my kit-installation, here:
Mulching with fabricated decks?

Oh, I also installed new softer seat springs. I used Cub spring 732-05182A, which I read about here, since they are carried by my local parts place. My place does not seem to carry the 3000-series springs you'd mentioned, Steve, so I figured I'd try these:
Hard riding seats - Garden Tractors Forum

They are taller than stock (see pic), but softer, and installation was easy. I slid some cardboard under the carriage bolts, to keep the bolts pressed into the square cutouts while removing/installing the nuts.

I did add some fender washers under the nuts, since these springs are meant to have a nut hold them down, but I'd guess these machines used a larger diameter thread and nut, so the nuts risked falling through the hole.

They don't make the machine a Cadillac, but it's a definite improvement, and worth the ~$15, IMO. I can get measurements of them if it's useful (even to run through a spring calculator, to compare stiffnesses).

I'm really like the tractor, and I love the tight turning radius, and the ability to smoothly & quickly transition between forward and reverse, while having reverse-mowing enabled (and the power steering making it easy to steer). That's much more fluid than my old machine: stop fully, shift to reverse, creep backwards, stop fully, shift to 3rd, go forward, stop fully, shift to reverse.....

I do want to take a look at how the engine shrouds come off, though, to check that the fins are clear. It always seems hotter than I'd expect under the hood. Though on my current tractor, I'm rarely popping the hood anyhow, so I don't have much to compare with. Despite roughly the same power (19.5 vs 20hp), this engine is driving a 48" deck vs 42", and the hydro must add more load as well, so this engine is working harder.

Apologies for the long posts. I'm trying to share my experiences, but also put in enough info that this can perhaps be useful for someone else in the future. There aren't as many GT / GTX threads, vs XT3, or at least not that I've found. And I found very little info on the mulch kits.

View attachment 2464102 View attachment 2464103
Great post RO. Those springs look much better than the factory 747 nose wheel seat springs.

I feel like your machine is an undiscovered gem in used GTs. It is a lifetime machine if maintained properly and rides/mows like a dream.
 
  • Like
Reactions: oefveteran

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Thanks! I'm really happy with it so far. And my example being in great physical condition really helps. I think (hope) it should be able to last for a long time, since it will likely be over-built and under-worked. Some people's uses might wear it out in 5 years, but mine shouldn't stress it like that. And the previous owner apparently stored it indoors, and I just moved it from the garage to the shed today, so it will stay dry.

I smile a bit when I walk into Home Depot and see something like a Deere E100 or base XT1 going for more than I paid. Nothing against those, but they're built differently. Of course, they get a warranty and stuff, but I can live without that.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #51
Well in the words of the McDonald's jingle, "I'm lovin' it!".

The machine had to take last weekend off, but I got to mow today at lunch. It's doing great.

The last few weeks have been hot, so the grass isn't growing terribly fast. But this took 1/3 off my mowing time, vs times with my previous geared tractor. I attribute that to:
  • 48" vs 42" deck helps, of course.
  • Ability to change speeds on the fly, and go quicker where the grass is thin, then slow down in dense areas. Previously, I'd do pretty much everything in the gear that was best-suited to most of the yard.
  • Much faster maneuverability, smoothly and quickly changing between forward and reverse.
  • Tighter, and power, steering making tight turns easier and faster.
  • Not needing to fiddle with stuff each time you need to mow in reverse (my last tractor would also mow in reverse, but I know that some make that more of a process, so I'm happy with this feature).
The softer seat springs have definitely helped, as well. We'll see if I want to make any other changes with that, but they're a big improvement.

Afterwards, I felt the tranny, it was definitely warm to the touch, but that was it. Not hot. Maybe, I don't know, 110F tops? From what I understand, ideally you should be able to hold your hand on the tranny housing, and it easily passed that test. Not that I expected it to be overloaded, but just wanted to check.

Areas that could be better? The power steering doesn't always keep up sometimes, with fast steering. Rotate the wheel at a certain speed and it's effortless, but go too-fast, and you presumably max out the assist, and you feel it get heavier. I'm still getting used to that limit. But that is certainly "first world problems."

I need to remember to re-check fluid levels, just to make sure everything is as-expected, after changing them recently.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,964 Posts
Well in the words of the McDonald's jingle, "I'm lovin' it!".

The machine had to take last weekend off, but I got to mow today at lunch. It's doing great.

The last few weeks have been hot, so the grass isn't growing terribly fast. But this took 1/3 off my mowing time, vs times with my previous geared tractor. I attribute that to:
  • 48" vs 42" deck helps, of course.
  • Ability to change speeds on the fly, and go quicker where the grass is thin, then slow down in dense areas. Previously, I'd do pretty much everything in the gear that was best-suited to most of the yard.
  • Much faster maneuverability, smoothly and quickly changing between forward and reverse.
  • Tighter, and power, steering making tight turns easier and faster.
  • Not needing to fiddle with stuff each time you need to mow in reverse (my last tractor would also mow in reverse, but I know that some make that more of a process, so I'm happy with this feature).
The softer seat springs have definitely helped, as well. We'll see if I want to make any other changes with that, but they're a big improvement.

Afterwards, I felt the tranny, it was definitely warm to the touch, but that was it. Not hot. Maybe, I don't know, 110F tops? From what I understand, ideally you should be able to hold your hand on the tranny housing, and it easily passed that test. Not that I expected it to be overloaded, but just wanted to check.

Areas that could be better? The power steering doesn't always keep up sometimes, with fast steering. Rotate the wheel at a certain speed and it's effortless, but go too-fast, and you presumably max out the assist, and you feel it get heavier. I'm still getting used to that limit. But that is certainly "first world problems."

I need to remember to re-check fluid levels, just to make sure everything is as-expected, after changing them recently.
Those are my impressions as well except for the steering not keeping up. I lube all non zerk pivot points with PTFE dry lube
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
Interesting, thanks. That's good to know.

Likewise, I have greased all the fittings, and have sprayed the other moving steering items with dry Teflon lube. To try and help them slide, without attracting grit.

I don't know what might cause differences between machines, with this. An interesting test might be to jack the front of mine off the ground (or at least take some weight off the front wheels) and spin the steering wheel, to see if the power assist can only move so fast, perhaps. But the force involved would be smaller than normal.

Curious, what do you see for voltage when you first start yours? Today at mid throttle, I think it showed 12.1V. I have my headlights disconnected.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,964 Posts
Interesting, thanks. That's good to know.

Likewise, I have greased all the fittings, and have sprayed the other moving steering items with dry Teflon lube. To try and help them slide, without attracting grit.

I don't know what might cause differences between machines, with this. An interesting test might be to jack the front of mine off the ground (or at least take some weight off the front wheels) and spin the steering wheel, to see if the power assist can only move so fast, perhaps. But the force involved would be smaller than normal.

Curious, what do you see for voltage when you first start yours? Today at mid throttle, I think it showed 12.1V. I have my headlights disconnected.
I'm at 12.6-12.9. 2016 model GT with factory battery
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,354 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
Thanks. I just checked with a meter at the battery with the tractor off, I got 12.4. Turning the key on (not starting the engine) showed 12.2 on the dash. So maybe my dash voltage displays a bit low (I trust the meter more than the dash).

Started it, and at maybe 3/4 throttle it showed 12.8, at full throttle it showed 13.8. You can't read the display very long before it changes to hours, though.

The machine sat for a few years after the previous owner passed, so the battery probably sat dead for a while. The connections at it look good. Maybe the battery is weak.

I'll try hooking up my solar battery maintainer, and see if that boost the battery's voltage a bit. I've read that more like 12.7-12.8V is fully-charged.

It doesn't have trouble starting or anything. I just got to wondering if maybe a battery voltage-sag might limit the power steering's speed, if yours doesn't exhibit that reduced-output when you steer too fast. I may just be over-thinking it, of course. And I haven't looked at parts lists to compare, maybe they updated the PS unit between my machine and yours.
 
41 - 55 of 55 Posts
Top