[linrick1]

Hi all, Tuesday I picked up a 5665 with the 50" QH mower deck and a steering sulky from my father in law. The machine is all there but is in need of a complete rebuild. I'm wondering what I'm looking at for the total cost involved in this project, rebuilding the K301S, new clutches, 2 new tires, bearings and seals for the mower gearbox and I'm sure a few other items that I havent discovered yet. I'm going to do the work myself over the winter and I'd like to know where a good parts outfit is here in the Northeast. Here are some pics of the old girl, thanks, Rick

 

[linrick1]

I thought you all might find a few more pics interesting...especially considering that I blew out the back window of our pickup loading this thing... and of course it poured all the way home....figures, Rick

 

[Richard-tx]

The K301 on my 5665 needed a major overhaul with new rod, piston, valves, rings. Total came close to $300 - $350 parts and machine shop time. Then the hi-lo planetary needed some work, it needed paint and decals too. Replaced the battery box and starter too.

The one thing that I did not change were the clutches. The clutches had an impressive amount of material left on them.

I probably have close to $600 in it.

My sources for parts were:

Pat's small engine - PSEP.biz
Richard's - gravelyparts.com
dbelectric - dbelectric.com

 

[linrick1]

Thanks Richard, I hope mine looks a nice as yours when I'm finished... Do you know what the clutches are going for these days? Rick

 

[Richard-tx]

The clutches on mine were good despite 3000 hours of use so I did not change them. In all the years that I and mu father owned and operated Gravely tractors, I have yet to buy a clutch for a two wheeler. I would be surprised if you need one.

 

[Richard-tx]

This is what it looked like when I got it.

The 50" mower deck looked just as attractive.

 

[Richard-tx]

BTW that was the 2nd 5665 I restored. The first one looked like this:

Before

After

 

[linrick1]

Thanks Richard, mine has 1600 hours on it and has not been the receipient of an overabundance of preventative maintenance nor careful operation which leads me to believe that the clutches might need attention, that and the way the control rods are adjusted and how the springs have been rearranged/removed...I'd like to be wrong about this though. It was parked with the clutches engaged and they are frozen now, the drive wheels will not freewheel and I'm not sure of the hi/low clutch, we'll find out I guess. Brace yourselves for many questions from me as I try to resurrect this old machine, Thanks again, Rick

 

[Richard-tx]

The hi-lo and fwd-rev control spring look right to me. Being stuck is usually a non-issue. A little oil where the cross shat enters the transmission is usually all that is needed.

The tractor was designed to not lock into reverse.

A new clutch is about $140.

The first 5665 I restored had a very loose hi-lo clutch and was likely why the tractor was parked and sold as it was slipping badly. It was used to plow snow. Despite that neglect, the clutch is still good.

1500 hrs isn't a lot. If it is smoking, you might be able to get away with just rings and valves. I had to have my engine bored, crank turned, etc. I would not expect that you would need that extensive an overhaul for another 1500 hours.

 

[NBS]

Jesus Christ, those are gorgeous restorations.

 

[Richard-tx]

Jesus Christ, those are gorgeous restorations.

Thanks for the kind words.

They aren't perfect but close enough that I can tolerate it. It is just a matter of taking time and paying attention to detail. I wrote up a brief blurb with tips some time ago. It should be in the archives somewhere. Everyone is different so what I find acceptable may not be acceptable to others.

 

[Richard-tx]

Since tires are mentioned, I do have some recommendations or at least furnish some advice on what NOT to buy.

Do not buy Carlisle Turf Saver II tires. They are inappropriate for this application.
Do not buy Cheng Shin tires. The tread depth is not what it should be.

I do recommend Carlisle tires. They last longer than the other brands which really means that they are actually cheaper in the long run.

There is an adage that comes to mind when discussing tire costs. "A man can go broke trying to save a buck"

 

[linrick1]

Well Richard, the results of your work tell me that you sure do know your way around these machines and I certainly do appreciate you taking time to help me with mine. I am glad to hear your thoughts about the condition of my rig, the fewer parts I have to purchase the better - I have plenty of time to pay attention to the details you mentioned, but not a whole lot of money... How do you propose I proceed? I was thinking of pulling the motor first to see what that will need, and then open up the cases. Thanks again, Rick

 

[linrick1]

Jesus Christ, those are gorgeous restorations.

My sentiments exactly.....

 

[gravelymay]

Would you be interested in a re power with another engine?
CK out this thread

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=75386

:trink39:

 

[linrick1]

Hey Gravelymay, I think I am going to stick with the Kohler. Id like to keep this as original as possible. Thanks, Rick

 

[Richard-tx]

Well Richard...How do you propose I proceed? I was thinking of pulling the motor first to see what that will need, and then open up the cases. Thanks again, Rick

I would start with some wd40 and see if I could get the controls to free up.

Next I would drain the oils and see what sort of contamination if any there is.

More than likely there is just some light corrosion preventing things from moving.

 

[Richard-tx]

It was mentioned that it won't free wheel. I have one tractor that has a very sensitive and grabby fwd-rev clutch and to move it I have to make sure the handle is in perfect neutral. Make sure the range selector (Swiftamatic) is in high as well.

I would not be anxious to remove the engine or disassemble anything until I got it running and was able to assess the overall condition of the engine and transmission. O certainly would not disassemble it on that table.

If the engine doesn't smoke or knock, the transmission works and is not noisy then I would leave it alone. The 5665 with the snow blade that I restored didn't need an engine overhaul or any transmission work. It's faults were mostly cosmetic with the exception of rusted out engine covers, loose magnets on the flywheel, bad fuel line. It had a bad condenser which prevented it from running.

The 2nd 5665 needed an engine overhaul and transmission repairs as it had been used, abused, and neglected for 3000 hours.

One tip when rebuilding 50" mower deck spindles. Have a capable helper. It will make things go a LOT faster. My son and I worked in tandem in a 50" deck and it took under an hour to R&R and rebuild the spindles. He worked outside removing and installing the spindles and I worked inside disassembling the spindles, installing new bearings and reassembling. He would bring one spindle in, take the completed one out, install it with new fasteners and take the next one out. Just about the time I completed a spindle, he would bring in another. One day I will write up a little blurb on rebuilding deck spindles. There are a few points that are a little different about them.

 

[linrick1]

Thanks Richard, the control rods all move freely but with no apparent effect, still wont freewheel. My FIL said that they parked it when it refused to start for them so perhaps I'll change the oils, clean out the fuel tank and carb and see what happens. Then at least I'll know where I'm at with this thing, thanks again, Rick

 

[Richard-tx]

Jack it up so that both wheels are off the ground and try to rotate each wheel by hand.

If they do not move, then remove one of the axle castings and find out why.