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Discussion Starter #1
The PTO on a 455 I picked up last week is not working.

Spent an hour plus wrestling with the deck to get it on, after all that, pulled the PTO and nothing happens, no light, no blade noise. 455 is new territory for me, picked it up because it came with a Little Buck loader, the loader I've been considering for a 322 I picked up a month or so ago.

Anyway, I did everything wrong getting the darn deck installed, then to have the PTO not work, ugh.
Deck will be coming off again as it turns out the driveshaft had fallen out while I was wrestling with it trying to get it installed (deck hangers were not all the way down, couldn't figure out why they would not lower all the way), I figured that issue out after the fact [slaps head], so deck removal and install should be far simpler next time.

The 455 runs great, no leaks, loader works great, only issues so far are the temp gauge pegs to full hot as soon as the key is turned on (unplug sensor and gauge drops all the way back down, so assuming a new sensor will take care of that).

On the PTO issue, not sure where to start to troubleshoot that, any help on that front would be appreciated.

Tractor is a 1996 with 700 hours.
Picture is included as I know that is a requirement lol.
No side panels, seller said they were broken years ago and tossed.
I'll likely get a new set as it's just not right to not have them.
 

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If you don't have the tech manual, I have it saved in my Dropbox, and I'd be happy to send you the link. That manual is a lifesaver for me.
 

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I replaced the water temp switch on my 445 recently. Might be a good time to drain the coolant, replace the switch and refill. I replaced at 1,000 hours. I also replaced the water pump as well. About $100 total for both. Not sure if similar concerns exist for the 455 water pump.
I second try to engage PTO with sensor unplugged.
First time I put my deck on PTO engaged the first time, but not after i disengaged. Turns out I didn’t fully connect the deck shaft to the tractor despite seeming like it was connected. I had luckily watched a mrBeef video of his 455 where the exact same thing happened.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yay! It was the brake keeping the PTO from engaging.
Thank you all for your comments and suggestions, especially @R_Shackleford for the brake suggestion.

@Mike514, yes sir, I plan to drain and refill the coolant when I replace the thermostat. Will be draining and replacing all the fluids just to be safe.

@Zagar, I don’t have any manuals, so if you could provide the tech manual that would be great.
This is my first exposure to a diesel tractor, so a manual would really help.

Still have to wrestle the deck off and on again to get the drive shaft put back on, but I have the deck lowering to the ground now, so should be a lot easier than the first time I did it. Hopefully I can do it with the FEL attached as that was a bit of a struggle to get off and back on the first time too.

Thank you again to each of you, you’re all part of what makes MTF such a fantastic resource.
 
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Good deal that is was only the brake! I’ve done that a couple times over the years.

Not sure if this will help at all but I’ve done a couple videos on deck install and removal.
 
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KCav, Your 455 is at least 19 years old. If you're going to drain the coolant, put a radiator flush in and run it. Follow directions on flush container, but I'd run for twice the amount of time! Then drain, fill with water, run for 10 or 15 minutes, drain, refill with coolant...allow engine to cool between drain & refill !!!

Also, check online for Yanmar manual. The Tech Manual has info about tractor, but nothing about engine. Bob
 

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I am so glad I'm not the only one that has trouble getting that **** PTO attached when installing the deck. I learned that trick of jacking up the front end the hard way. DEFINITELY helps a lot.

And if anyone knows where to obtain that Yanmar manual, I would like to have that as well.
 

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I am so glad I'm not the only one that has trouble getting that **** PTO attached when installing the deck. I learned that trick of jacking up the front end the hard way. DEFINITELY helps a lot.

And if anyone knows where to obtain that Yanmar manual, I would like to have that as well.
CTM3 will cover the 3TNA72UJ.

I do not have an electronic copy. You can occasionally find them online.
 
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Discussion Starter #11
Good deal that is was only the brake! I’ve done that a couple times over the years.

Not sure if this will help at all but I’ve done a couple videos on deck install and removal.
Your video certainly helps.

One issue I had was the arms to connect the deck to would not drop all the way down. I didn’t notice the deck height adjustment was set to mid height until I had the deck on, was quite a pain when the arms are not fully down.

The other issue was FEL was in the way for the front deck support piece.
I may be able to get deck on and off with FEL on, but if the mower is to be used I wouldn’t want the FEL on there anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
KCav, Your 455 is at least 19 years old. If you're going to drain the coolant, put a radiator flush in and run it. Follow directions on flush container, but I'd run for twice the amount of time! Then drain, fill with water, run for 10 or 15 minutes, drain, refill with coolant...allow engine to cool between drain & refill !!!

Also, check online for Yanmar manual. The Tech Manual has info about tractor, but nothing about engine. Bob
Is there a specific flush I should use or would any flush be fine?

What about the coolant, is there a specific brand or ratio I need to use?

For oil, is synthetic ok, 10W30?
 

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Is there a specific flush I should use or would any flush be fine?

What about the coolant, is there a specific brand or ratio I need to use?

For oil, is synthetic ok, 10W30?
Coolant wise, I am a huge fan of Cool-Gard II from Deere. It is a little more expensive but after you flush the system you shouldn’t need to touch for years. Any good coolant will be fine.

Oil wise any good 15w-40 Diesel engine oil will do. I buy enough Plus 50 II from Deere I can get the bulk price. Rotella seems to be the go to for most folks. I did try the T6 synthetic Rotella once and there was a little too much noise for me. Same report from a couple of friends as well. But we have to remember that these engines were designed in the late 70’s early 80’s. The 3TNA72UJ was first installed in the 430 GT.
 

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I flushed with distilled water.

I also used JD branded coolant. I bought the premix ready to use, otherwise, you can buy nondiluted and mix yourself, which I believe is with 50% distilled water.
 

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Yay! It was the brake keeping the PTO from engaging.
Thank you all for your comments and suggestions, especially @R_Shackleford for the brake suggestion.

@Mike514, yes sir, I plan to drain and refill the coolant when I replace the thermostat. Will be draining and replacing all the fluids just to be safe.

@Zagar, I don’t have any manuals, so if you could provide the tech manual that would be great.
This is my first exposure to a diesel tractor, so a manual would really help.

Still have to wrestle the deck off and on again to get the drive shaft put back on, but I have the deck lowering to the ground now, so should be a lot easier than the first time I did it. Hopefully I can do it with the FEL attached as that was a bit of a struggle to get off and back on the first time too.

Thank you again to each of you, you’re all part of what makes MTF such a fantastic resource.
Glad you were able to get that fixed so quickly, time to put it to work now!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I’ve already done a little work with it, moved all the ash from burn pile and pulled a large dead tree down that had fallen and was hung up in another tree.

Need to replace the temp sensor plus do all the fluid changes and then tractor will be ready for full time service.
 

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Glad it was a quick fix.
Just from my experience so far;
The power steering cylinder hoses seem to start leaking around 1,000 hours. Just replacing the o rings should be enough. I replaced all 5, though I've ready only replacing the 3 flex hose o rings and not the hard line hoses. The hard line hose o rings were real tough to replace without fully removing them.
I personally had to replace 1 hose.

I often find parted out 425's for sale around my area. You could always buy used side panels, remove the decal and buy the 455 decals to save a few bucks, granted, if you can find them in decent shape.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I’ll keep an eye out for used side panels.
No rush as the tractor is kept inside.

Have to be careful though, sometimes those used parts come with a fully functional tractor attached lol.
 
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