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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
I just bought a second belt and blew that one in about the same amount of time. It was extremely hot when I got it off so I'm going to assume that the belt stretched a lot after first use. Halfway through cutting I did tighten it up again but then it broke 10 minutes after
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I have checked the linkages and there is no real amount of slop in them
 

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Ouch. Not sure what it's worth, but I tension to one wire size between coils.

Considering you've ruled out almost everything, I'm kind of scratching my head at this point.

You still have an EZ clutch on this? Is it engaging properly and properly adjusted? If the friction disc were slipping, that would be a source of heat, as would one of the bearings packing it in.(mine on the 446 has three 6206 sealed bearings)

Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
I've been able to freely spend all the bearings with no issue. I've also gone over such thick grass and leaves today as to almost all the engine so I'm going to say the belt is not slipping
 

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I'm out of ideas then, but would at least check the temperature of the clutch assembly. (Quick and easy if you have an infrared temperature "gun") You won't be able to spin two of the bearings in the clutch assembly (one on each side of the engagement fork) without disassembling the clutch, and simply turning the engine over will not tell you if they are dry/slightly rough.

Could just run it for a while and then shut down and check it by touch...carefully. ;)

Good luck with it, and please post if you get it sorted, I know I'm curious as to what it could be now...

Edited for shpellung

Al
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Good idea. I do have an ir gun. I have a feeling its getting more initial stretch than I'm used to and I'm not keeping up on it. I've removed the deck now and I'm done with it for this season so I will look into it again in the spring
 

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
Another question I've come across. I know that I should fill the tires and keep an eye out for chains but this is pertaining to the machine in stock condition. Mine has aggressively poor traction. I was trying to tow around a trailer yesterday that probably only weighed 3,000 lb or so full of wood. With my old Ford LGT 18H which only weighs about a hundred pounds more it pulled that much weight no problem. My 444 had no power or drive issues when I had grip I didn't even know the trailer was back there. But I had a lot of tire spin which I was not expecting with those big tires and heavy rear end. I had the rear end in low speed. Are these machines particularly known to have bad traction on the stock tires?
 

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Have run into traction issues on wet grass or snow/ice. Never been a problem mowing, but pushing dirt/clay with the blade there was some spinning with the blade "full". Half blade wasn't a problem. Chains solved winter traction issues without weights. Keep meaning to make some concrete wheel weights, but never get around to it.

I ordered chains from Canadian Chains.

Al

 

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
Neat didn't know you could still but chains. Not cheap but they look handy. Thank you for the link
 

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Hemlock Case Guy
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I just bought a second belt and blew that one in about the same amount of time. It was extremely hot when I got it off so I'm going to assume that the belt stretched a lot after first use. Halfway through cutting I did tighten it up again but then it broke 10 minutes after
You will never get long life out of the equivalent belts you are buying locally.

Case belts that drive the mower deck and the snow caster are 9/16" in width and have an aramid (sp?) cross-section built into them. The Case has some pretty severe twists in the way the belt is routed. Bill at Barneveld stocks the belts. They run around $20US and normally last around a decade.

I too had the same issue as you are having. Searching for a better belt on the internet is how I first found the garden tractor forums and the knowledge of the need for a Case belt. That was around 2011 and that belt is still working just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 ·
Going to the proper belt got you from 10 minutes to 10 years? Also I talked to barnveld and he suggested the correct belt and a deck balancing
 

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Going to the proper belt got you from 10 minutes to 10 years? Also I talked to barnveld and he suggested the correct belt and a deck balancing
What do you mean by "deck balancing"?

Adjust front to back with 1/4" rise in the back, dead level or blades balanced?

CCMoe
 

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Hemlock Case Guy
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Going to the proper belt got you from 10 minutes to 10 years? Also I talked to barnveld and he suggested the correct belt and a deck balancing
Deck balancing would be the blades. I scored a used professional blade sharpener and Magmatic blade balancer. I took the online course, a free course on Magamatic's website, on blade sharpening and balancing. They stressed that a balanced blade not only works better but reduces the stress on all its components. I bought the adapter to balance RM deck blades which was actually a close enough adapter from Craftsman blades.

But, having the deck setup front to back with the front down 1/4-3/8" means you cut the grass once per pass. If the rear is lower than the front you cut the grass twice per pass causing additional strain on the drive and engine. That is true for all mowers.
 

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Deck balancing would be the blades. I scored a used professional blade sharpener and Magmatic blade balancer. I took the online course, a free course on Magamatic's website, on blade sharpening and balancing. They stressed that a balanced blade not only works better but reduces the stress on all its components. I bought the adapter to balance RM deck blades which was actually a close enough adapter from Craftsman blades.

But, having the deck setup front to back with the front down 1/4-3/8" means you cut the grass once per pass. If the rear is lower than the front you cut the grass twice per pass causing additional strain on the drive and engine. That is true for all mowers.
ssmewing,

I have a plastic balancer that steps up or down, however you want to look at it that does a pretty good job of balancing, others use a nail driven into the wall. I'll have to take a look at Magna-Matic site but I hate to, I usually end up buying it if I like it. "I went and looked, I'm going to stick with the plastic one".

I file my blades by hand, kinda sucks but I don't like putting heat into the blades, softens the metal which dulls the blade quicker. mowergene calls me out on this! A good file and a vise, not a lot of fun but you're not damaging the blades.

One the level vs. 1/4" lift in the rear of the deck, I think either way, the front blades do the cutting.

CCMoe
 
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