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I ordered the igniter - just a cheap $80 one from Amazon. Fortunately where I ordered from it had free returns, so I figured worst case, if I don't have spark - I'll know to move further up the chain and start to look at that PCB. As far as the two 10A fuses - they "looked" okay but I did not pull them out and test them with a meter. I will do that in the AM just to confirm.
The igniter is a red herring at this point. You need to figure out why there is no power to the coils with the engine in a run state.

Looks like @joneill4 has sent you what you need to diagnose further.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
Okay - so I spent some time going through the owners manual - and I probably should have figured this out before - and I even made mention of it in post 37 - but it never really dawned on me so to speak....

I assume its in run - it is either off, and one position over the engine is cranking. I had my wife turn the engine over while I checked the voltage!
I don't have a RUN position. It's either crank or nothing. Am I correct that the run position is what would supply the 12v to the coil? Here's what I mean....

 

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Nice work, looks like you found your issue.

The board and switch are sold together - should be an easy swap out - be sure to disconnect the battery.

Best
 

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Those black rectangular boxes on your interlock module are relays. One of them is welded in the closed position. If you have more time than money, you can change the relay for about $6. It is not the easiest job, because the relay has 10 solder joints and the whole board is coated in silicone. When I replaced mine, I instantly welded the the relay on the brand new board. Once I figured out my wiring problem, I bought a pack of 10 relays and fixed both boards. I bought a hot air desolder station, and I think it is the tool for swapping the relay out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
Nice work, looks like you found your issue.

The board and switch are sold together - should be an easy swap out - be sure to disconnect the battery.

Best
Well its never easy! I got the new key switch today, installed it - put it to 'run' - and checked voltage. I HAD 12v at the coils!!! I checked one side - and not the other. I decided to "go for it" - and when I turned it to run, I heard a solenoid start "weeeeee" and then it stopped and the engine turned over. It didn't start, but I noticed now in the 'run' position again - it will start cranking like before. So something in the start circuit seems to be the problem. Any ideas as to what it could be?
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
Those black rectangular boxes on your interlock module are relays. One of them is welded in the closed position. If you have more time than money, you can change the relay for about $6. It is not the easiest job, because the relay has 10 solder joints and the whole board is coated in silicone. When I replaced mine, I instantly welded the the relay on the brand new board. Once I figured out my wiring problem, I bought a pack of 10 relays and fixed both boards. I bought a hot air desolder station, and I think it is the tool for swapping the relay out.
I do know my way around a soldering iron - so I might look real close at this!
 

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Well its never easy! I got the new key switch today, installed it - put it to 'run' - and checked voltage. I HAD 12v at the coils!!! I checked one side - and not the other. I decided to "go for it" - and when I turned it to run, I heard a solenoid start "weeeeee" and then it stopped and the engine turned over. It didn't start, but I noticed now in the 'run' position again - it will start cranking like before. So something in the start circuit seems to be the problem. Any ideas as to what it could be?
I'm curious what you replaced. Was it the key switch and board or did you replace just the switch?

I believe you need this assembly John Deere Ignition Module - AM124137 - 345 | eBay
 

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There was a guy on here when I ran into this same issue that said it was a function of a bad ground. He's probably still here, but I have no idea who it was. In my case, I wired one of the plugs to the interlock board incorrectly. $180 was a hard nut to crack, so I wasn't paying a second time.Maybe I was too subtle, but I did try to warn you of this possibility in my last post. The hard part of the job is desoldering the original relays. If you can get it off without boogering the board, it is super cheap.
 

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Can you post a picture or two of the wiring near the solenoid? It looks like there may have been some repairs in that area. The igniter is normally bolted in place and is loose for some reason.

I was really hoping that you were going to tell me you desoldered and replaced the key switch only. ;)
 

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Does the igniter ground through the bolts? That could explain the bad ground if it does.
I just looked at the engine schematic, the igniter has a ground wire connected to it. I believe the metal spacers in the igniter mounting holes are solely to prevent the plastic mounts from being crushed. Some of the aftermarket igniters do not have a metal spacer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Can you post a picture or two of the wiring near the solenoid? It looks like there may have been some repairs in that area. The igniter is normally bolted in place and is loose for some reason.

I was really hoping that you were going to tell me you desoldered and replaced the key switch only. ;)
Here you go! Lord I appreciate everyones help! I know its close! On the next switch - I'll try desoldered the key first! DOH!











 

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Thanks for the pictures, is this some sort of a splice?
2513340
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
So I found some info that the starter solenoid could be just open. It read that start cranking it and pull the purple/white wire - and if it kept running, then the solenoid was bad. Mine stopped, so I think we're good there. I feel like all the components are okay - I've just got something shorted somewhere that caused this. The headlight plugs are all cut and wired together, could any of that have any effect on it?
 
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