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The cranking video sounds okay to me. The circuit board on a 345 does not have LEDs like the 425/445/455 does. I can verify this as I have owned both.

As for the taped up plug, we will need to see it I taped to tell you what it's for.


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The taped-over loose wire is likely for your headlights.

Did you verify no spark, or are you going on what the OP told you? If not, I would confirm there is no spark.
 
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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
The taped-over loose wire is likely for your headlights.

Did you verify no spark, or are you going on what the OP told you? If not, I would confirm there is no spark.
I have what I believe is called a timing light - you stick your eyeball up to this gun looking thing and it flashes if there is a spark. I used that to confirm that there was no spark.
 

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I have what I believe is called a timing light - you stick your eyeball up to this gun looking thing and it flashes if there is a spark. I used that to confirm that there was no spark.
Hope that you are kidding about putting it to your eye...
 

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I have what I believe is called a timing light - you stick your eyeball up to this gun looking thing and it flashes if there is a spark. I used that to confirm that there was no spark.
Since the timing isn't adjustable and there are no timing marks, you don't use a timing light on a small engine you use a spark tester.


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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Since the timing isn't adjustable and there are no timing marks, you don't use a timing light on a small engine you use a spark tester.


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It flashes with the 318 and the Cub Cadet - is the 345 different? Sincere question - I am not good with this!
 

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It flashes with the 318 and the Cub Cadet - is the 345 different? Sincere question - I am not good with this!
Yes, magneto and CDI ignition are different, as are the automotive systems. What you need is a spark tester with either a spark gap or a neon bulb. It would hook inline with the spark plug and cable.


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The timing light is designed for a CDI system, so should work just fine. But, it only gives a gross indication, which is why people say to use the other one.

I will say it does sound like there is no spark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
The timing light is designed for a CDI system, so should work just fine. But, it only gives a gross indication, which is why people say to use the other one.

I will say it does sound like there is no spark.
I've got an Autozone fairly close by - so once I am done working, I'll run and spend a few bucks on one. Can't hurt to confirm right!
 

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My advice at this point is to see if you have 12v at the coils with the switch on. If you don't, time to look at the ignition board/switch/wiring. If you haven't already, make sure the fuses are good.

If there is power at the coils, it's time to look at the igniter. The easiest way to test it is to swap it - what engine is in the Cub Cadet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
My advice at this point is to see if you have 12v at the coils with the switch on. If you don't, time to look at the ignition board/switch/wiring. If you haven't already, make sure the fuses are good.

If there is power at the coils, it's time to look at the igniter. The easiest way to test it is to swap it - what engine is in the Cub Cadet?
Cub has a 22 HP Kohler Courage
 

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I agree with others that this tractor is worth fixing. You can test for spark with the spark plugs that are already there. If you are patient, you will get the help you need from this forum. I believe I have a manual for this tractor, so I may be able to help with some of the specs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
My advice at this point is to see if you have 12v at the coils with the switch on. If you don't, time to look at the ignition board/switch/wiring. If you haven't already, make sure the fuses are good.

If there is power at the coils, it's time to look at the igniter. The easiest way to test it is to swap it - what engine is in the Cub Cadet?

Okay - I wasn't entirely sure how to test voltage at the coils. What I did was put my red on one prong of the coil, and the black prong on a bolt on the engine - and got 0v. I then tested the other lug to a the same bolt, and got 0v as well. Am I testing that correctly or can someone outline the correct procedure?

Additionally - looking at the components, it looks like the igniter (CDI) would send voltage the coil, so if the coil have 0v, wouldn't that make the igniter suspect?
 

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Okay - I wasn't entirely sure how to test voltage at the coils. What I did was put my red on one prong of the coil, and the black prong on a bolt on the engine - and got 0v. I then tested the other lug to a the same bolt, and got 0v as well. Am I testing that correctly or can someone outline the correct procedure?

Additionally - looking at the components, it looks like the igniter (CDI) would send voltage the coil, so if the coil have 0v, wouldn't that make the igniter suspect?
I assume that the key was in the run position?

The positive of the coil is connected to the key switch and should be hot when the switch is on. The igniter grounds the coil to trigger a discharge/spark.

You can download the engine manual here https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Ka...90V-FD611V-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf

But...I think that you are going to need a wiring diagram for the tractor at this point unless someone else can help with the troubleshooting. Not sure if @joneill4 was able to send you one.

My guess is that you need a new ignition module/board unless there is some damaged wiring, but recommend continuing to diagnose it as the board isn't cheap. I would also check the two fuses on the board if you haven't already.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I assume that the key was in the run position?

The positive of the coil is connected to the key switch and should be hot when the switch is on. The igniter grounds the coil to trigger a discharge/spark.

You can download the engine manual here https://www.mymowerparts.com/pdf/Ka...90V-FD611V-KAWASAKI-SERVICE-REPAIR-MANUAL.pdf

But...I think that you are going to need a wiring diagram for the tractor at this point unless someone else can help with the troubleshooting. Not sure if @joneill4 was able to send you one.

My guess is that you need a new ignition module/board unless there is some damaged wiring, but recommend continuing to diagnose it as the board isn't cheap. I would also check the two fuses on the board if you haven't already.
I assume its in run - it is either off, and one position over the engine is cranking. I had my wife turn the engine over while I checked the voltage!
 

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I assume its in run - it is either off, and one position over the engine is cranking. I had my wife turn the engine over while I checked the voltage!
That should have done the trick. There should be power to the coils in the run and start position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
That should have done the trick. There should be power to the coils in the run and start position.
I ordered the igniter - just a cheap $80 one from Amazon. Fortunately where I ordered from it had free returns, so I figured worst case, if I don't have spark - I'll know to move further up the chain and start to look at that PCB. As far as the two 10A fuses - they "looked" okay but I did not pull them out and test them with a meter. I will do that in the AM just to confirm.
 
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