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The video doesn't show the trunnion block. The block goes between the business end (bottom) of the shipper shaft and the dog gear. The hole in the block goes around the pin in the bottom of the shaft, the block sits in a slot machined into the dog gear.

You have to put the trunnion block in place, then drop the end of the shipper shaft into it. That means that you can't sock down the shipper shaft assembly first, that comes last.

There's a video of this operation at
That machine is a C10A, so the shifter lever looks different than yours, but the trunnion block, and the procedure for assembling it, are identical.
 

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Yeah after watching again the other day I realized that I attempted to explain it but didn't really show it. Back then I was using my phone clamped to a tripod so it was all I could do to just make a video at all. Now I've got an older GoPro with all the mounts and clamps and stuff so it's easier to get certain views.
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Isnt that it at the 9 minute mark when you said "Im running out of daylight"?
 

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Discussion Starter #104
The video doesn't show the trunnion block. The block goes between the business end (bottom) of the shipper shaft and the dog gear. The hole in the block goes around the pin in the bottom of the shaft, the block sits in a slot machined into the dog gear.

You have to put the trunnion block in place, then drop the end of the shipper shaft into it. That means that you can't sock down the shipper shaft assembly first, that comes last.

There's a video of this operation at
That machine is a C10A, so the shifter lever looks different than yours, but the trunnion block, and the procedure for assembling it, are identical.
I need to seriously look at something in the manuals that shows what the proper name of these parts are, thats another issue I dont know what the h311 I need / need to do with what.
I know with having to go to work in a few and tomorrow this will have to happen saturday for certain and I can study vids and what to do with what by then.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
Im gonna study the video/s but while Im out here I was gonna ask wich one of these PTO gaskets is better, the darker one or the lighter one?
Kinda of a dumb question cause the darker one feels much better than the lighter one.
And Im gonna get on here and search for a starter rig for " my L model " that Im gonna keep for myself. Actually there is some things it can be used for round here .
Im gonna try to find the whole kit & Kabootle , plate, starter itself , small sprocket and I'll seek advice for the part I already have on another meaning the flywheel that looks like the teeth are better than on the L8.
I guess I'll start with GT's.
 

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Both those gaskets look new. Either one will work fine.

The gasket isn't really necessary. About half my machines don't have gaskets, and they're fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #107
Yea they are new, may as well use one since they are here.
I just got done watching evesnova's video and on full screen it really looks good and clear as a bell. Aint got time to do anything out here tonight but mess around with a few things.
So wadda ya think about the starter I gotta get or where to look, and would it be better to get new flywheel assembly or use the one I have already?
 

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I'm not sure what you mean by a flywheel assembly. The gravely T-head has the flywheels internal to the case.

If you mean the starter clutch (second pic in post 105), it depends on condition. Does it cleanly engage in the forward direction, and freewheel in the opposite direction?

It looks like somebody put a zerk fitting in place of the pin. That implies that they may have filled it with grease, which is not the recommended procedure. In that case it likely needs to be disassembled and cleaned.

Also, you're either missing the locking bolt, or you have one of the early units which didn't have one. The old ones work but you are at some risk of it over-torquing and cracking the pulley.

If it were mine: I would pull it off, clean it, and bench check it. If it engages clean, I'd probably just use it as is, after removing the zerk, putting some solvent in there, and cleaning out the old grease as best I could.

If it doesn't engage/disengage properly, it needs to be pulled apart for a more thorough cleaning/overhaul. WARNING! The starter clutch has 21 little machined cam segments, located by a pair of springs at each end of the cylinder. It's extremely easy to drop them, and it's extremely easy to put them in backwards when reassembling. Given the challenges you've had with things like the PTO, I do not recommend you disassemble it: that will turn into another frustrating project for you. If it's not good to go as is, I recommend you sell it on ebay or someplace, and find a starter kit including a clutch which is ready to go.
 

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Discussion Starter #109
Thanks Ive heard all I need to hear for me to make the decision to get a new one. The main reason it takes me 10 x longer to do something is because I dont have time and installing something new is enough to get into for me plus my health if failing bad not to mention driving 100 miles a day to work is a killer itself on my 60 yr. old carcas.
I dont even know how to sell something on E-Bay lol.
I guess I'll check out GT's and e-bay for a starter kit. And yes that big gear on that old 50' sum L something was what I was referring to as a flywheel, kinda what it looked like to me.
So thanks for your help as usual because you and evesnova and fireant and more of course always see me thru, and Turchek (sp?) Gravely 64 and all of you all.
I do appreciate it and if any of you would like that thing I call a flywheel just give me a shipping adress and its yours.
 

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Thanks Ive heard all I need to hear for me to make the decision to get a new one. The main reason it takes me 10 x longer to do something is because I dont have time and installing something new is enough to get into for me plus my health if failing bad not to mention driving 100 miles a day to work is a killer itself on my 60 yr. old carcas.
I dont even know how to sell something on E-Bay lol.
I guess I'll check out GT's and e-bay for a starter kit. And yes that big gear on that old 50' sum L something was what I was referring to as a flywheel, kinda what it looked like to me.
So thanks for your help as usual because you and evesnova and fireant and more of course always see me thru, and Turchek (sp?) Gravely 64 and all of you all.
I do appreciate it and if any of you would like that thing I call a flywheel just give me a shipping adress and its yours.
Just sent you a message. Let me know what the shipping will be.
 

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Attached is a pic of the modification to the stock PTO engagement setup I alluded to in a previous post. The later tractors incorporated a similar improvement.


Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
 
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Discussion Starter #113
Just sent you a message. Let me know what the shipping will be.
I guess I spoke to soon on that thing, nothing personal to ANYONE but if you read it closley I was kinda addressing the guys that have seen me through my problems for almost 4 yrs. now ( Greg in Kenova to, cant remember everyone) and I have been a real pain to some of these people but they stuck w/me, Im not trying to get rid of it or in a slam bang hurry to go out there and remove it wich I would get to in a month maybe if lucky because Im so busy and will be going in the hospital for a week or two before very long as well but as I said I'll take the blame but I cant get that thing off there for everyone who has replied to post and stuff.
I should have just kept it all either to myself or in PM's or something.
Call me what you want I can take it like I said I messed it up.
 

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What the heck does that thing do PA RedRider?
The original remote PTO design mounts the shift lever on a pivot to the left of the shifter block. Over time the pivot point can wear. This allows the lever to get a bit sloppy. With enough wear, it can get loose enough to tip sideways and disengage from the pin in the shifter block.

The strap across the top prevents that from happening. Even if the pivot is worn, the strap keeps the end of the lever solidly on the pin. Per PA Redrider, it's an easy mod to do, and became standard equipment later.

Gravely was always fiddling with the design. Most of the changes were improvements :)
 

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I cant get that thing off there
Gerrard, see this old thread for a discussion of getting stuck starter clutches off. L8 Starter Clutch Among other ideas, there's a pointer to a tool I made a few years ago to help with that problem. That thing has been a big help. It sticks in behind the clutch and grabs the pulley. Then you can lean (and I do mean lean!) on a big wrench on the flats of the clutch. Especially if you have one without a locking bolt, you'll probably need something like that technique.

For really stuck ones, I use a 24" crescent wrench, or one of my heavy duty open-ends, with a pipe over the other end.
 

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Not sure if this will be much help since it shows it being installed rather than being removed:


True to form, I of course didn't really explain anything I was doing there. The locking bolt (the one I ground the threads off of) was added from the factory later, it prevents the starter clutch hub from continuing to tighten the fan belt pulley more and more onto that tapered shaft. Before they started doing that it would cause cracking because the tapered shaft would spread out the hub of the fan pulley. I've even seen it start to rub on the oil pump bolt heads because it gets closer and closer to the engine. Anyway, the overall length and the length of the threads of the locking bolt have to be a certain amount and I didn't have an original to copy so I just did it by trial and error. Lots of error.
 

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Nice sequence with the locking bolt :)

I found another one which shows a clutch removal:
But that guy had it easy; just a few whacks with a small crescent wrench and it popped right off. A lot of them are much tougher than that :(

Gerrard FYI that second video also does a disassembly and reassembly of the clutch itself. It'll give you an idea how tricky that can get.
 

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no
I guess I spoke to soon on that thing, nothing personal to ANYONE but if you read it closley I was kinda addressing the guys that have seen me through my problems for almost 4 yrs. now ( Greg in Kenova to, cant remember everyone) and I have been a real pain to some of these people but they stuck w/me, Im not trying to get rid of it or in a slam bang hurry to go out there and remove it wich I would get to in a month maybe if lucky because Im so busy and will be going in the hospital for a week or two before very long as well but as I said I'll take the blame but I cant get that thing off there for everyone who has replied to post and stuff.
I should have just kept it all either to myself or in PM's or something.
Call me what you want I can take it like I said I messed it up.
No problem. Will just consider it a matter of frustration.
 

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Discussion Starter #119
Its by no means off the table buddy, I opened my mouth about it and was just exited I guess ( I had gotten a unemployment check in the mail that day for $ 5, 600.36 I'd been waiting on for almost 2 months, and Ive been back to work for 3 weeks now!)
I dont see any indicator that anyone has left me a PM and dont really know how to check it on the new forum without one.
The issue is me really ever getting around to taking it off because I have so much to get fixed that I must have ASAP doing that is pretty much a pipe dream but when it happens and since I dont guess I have anyone beating the door down for it that I know of I will do my best to not let you down because again I did open my mouth about it. When is the real issue.
Later Man
 

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My Tractor Forum That square box on the upper right of your screen look under Alerts. I am in no big hurry so take your time some day if you really want to get rid of it and have nothing better to do. But got to ask how are you starting it with the starter clutch on it?
 
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