[MikesRJ]

Finally had the opportunity to get to TN to pick up my latest project :bannana:. I'm sure I'll be asking many questions, and documenting the entire restoration process, as I go along. If anyone has comments, suggestions, leads for parts and such; By all means let me know.

Almost all of the parts appear to be original, for what is there. I did notice the pin for the hitch is missing and has been replaced with a bolt and the seat spring is backwards. Most of the springs are not original, as are many of hte bolts. But all in all the frame is nearly complete. All I need now is a hood, tank and engine to complete the set. rail for the plow does not appear to be original, someone more knowledgeable can fill me in there.

The Pictures below.

Enjoy!

 

[SALTYWRIGHT]

Hi...........i Have A Pin For The Hitch For You. Where Are You ? I Will Be At The Wheel Horse Show In Pa. I Also Have The Clips. Russ

 

[MikesRJ]

Hi...........i Have A Pin For The Hitch For You. Where Are You ? I Will Be At The Wheel Horse Show In Pa. I Also Have The Clips. Russ

Russ, I live in PA about 40 miles east of Arendtsville, PA. I plan on attending Friday, and possibly Saturday as well. Any idea when you will be arriving?

 

[SALTYWRIGHT]

Hi...........i Will Be At The Show On Friday As Soon As I Can Get There.
I Will Be Comming Down From Ct. So It Is A Long Haul. I Still Do Not Know Where I Am Staying Friday Night So I Can Not Say About Sat.
I Will Be Running A Work Horse Gt-1800-h With A Stack Ex. Pipe. My Car Lic. Is "salty" From Ct. (a Gray Toyota) Leave A Note On My Car If You Can Not Find Me. Russ

 

[stevinator]

Great Find, wheelhorserjclub typed in on Yahoo will get you an rj site that has manuals and photos to help you.

 

[63Panzer]

Aside from the hitch pin I have everything you need.

1) A very nice uncut original RJ hood, no cracks, no dents, no drilled holes.
2) Very nice lift arm and latch system, works smooth, grip still in good shape.
3) Original gas tank, will need to be cleaned and sealed.
4) I might even have the correct plow rail and frame brackets.

Basically I have a complete parts RJ minus the trans. Front and rear wheels, seat spring, rear slot hitch with a very nice lift cable, belt gaurd for your right foot for attachments, steering wheel (spokes are loose but the rim is nice). All of it is for sale.

Let me know if you are interested as I might also be going to the Wheel Horse show and could bring it down. You can PM me or email me at: [email protected]

Thanks Vince

 

[MikesRJ]

Aside from the hitch pin I have everything you need.

1) A very nice uncut original RJ hood, no cracks, no dents, no drilled holes.
2) Very nice lift arm and latch system, works smooth, grip still in good shape.
3) Original gas tank, will need to be cleaned and sealed.
4) I might even have the correct plow rail and frame brackets.

Basically I have a complete parts RJ minus the trans. Front and rear wheels, seat spring, rear slot hitch with a very nice lift cable, belt gaurd for your right foot for attachments, steering wheel (spokes are loose but the rim is nice). All of it is for sale.

Let me know if you are interested as I might also be going to the Wheel Horse show and could bring it down. You can PM me or email me at: [email protected]

Thanks Vince

Sent you an email.

 

[jschahl]

The blade looks to be right to me, but perhaps repaired? ... it's an SPR-42.. you can see that parts drawing at http://www.toro.com

Heres' a picture mounted on an RJ

 

[MikesRJ]

jschal,

I agree, that it looks right, but the rail seems to be made of 2"pipe sections welded together. Would you (or anyone else) happen to have a closeup picture of the lift handle pivot and catch area. It appears mine does not had the original parts, specifically the latch, and the lift handle has been cut shorter in a previous repair.

 

[jschahl]

I've got these... sorry they're not the best for the part you're looking at. If you want, feel free to look at the rest of the album. This is a project I just picked up from another member not too long ago.
(click pictures for larger versions in photobucket)

 

[MikesRJ]

Jason,

Great pics. Those help a lot. Thanks.

 

[MikesRJ]

The blade looks to be right to me, but perhaps repaired? ... it's an SPR-42.. you can see that parts drawing at http://www.toro.com

Jason,
I looked over the Toro parts and pictures for the blade. I find the bar is definitely a replacement and not original. Would you happen to have the standard bar on yours? Your picture does not seem to indicate that you do.

 

[MikesRJ]

Restoration begins;

Exploded diagram view;

 

[jschahl]

Jason, ... Would you happen to have the standard bar on yours? Your picture does not seem to indicate that you do.

No, sorry I do not. That other picture I posted is from an ebay sale a couple years ago. Just saved the picture for reference. The only blade for a mid-engine horse is the HD-42...this one.


Cool picture all dismantled. Looks like that blade has seen a hard life on the corners! Looking forward to watching this project, please keep updating!

 

[MikesRJ]

Jason,

Blade has seen a hard life. I believe the tractor was used solely for plowing in its later life. The sacrificial strip is worn past the bottom of the blade on both sides and appears not to have been flipped of replaced until it was too late.

Restoration Progress Update: Almost all of the small parts are sand blasted, electro-cleaned and primed. All that is left to do is the transmission, seat, rims and wheel hubs. Still having a bit of a problem getting the steering wheel off the shaft.

I'll post more pictures later today.

 

[glenn27]

Good luck on your project, my man...

 

[63Panzer]

Jason,

Still having a bit of a problem getting the steering wheel off the shaft.

I'll post more pictures later today.

Tons of PB Blaster, carefully drill the roll pin, protect the end of the shaft and use a small gear puller. Let that PB soak for a couple days, can never use to much on these old RJ's.

 

[MikesRJ]

Restoration Status Update:

All of the parts so far have been wire wheeled, sand blaster, and/or electro-cleaned. The process of electro-cleaning removes all of the rust without effecting the underlying metal. The process is basically a bath of Baking soda and water (1 TBL Spoon/Gallon) a stainless steel baking pan and a battery charger. + lead to the baking pan, - lead to the part to be cleaned....turn on the juice for an hour or so. Read more on the process here: http://www.thepontiactransampage.com/rust.htmlhttp://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/Miscellaneous/Rust_Removal.htm

Seat Bottom

Seat Top

Completed Parts to date:

Next on the list:

Enjoy!

 

[jschahl]

The process of electro-cleaning removes all of the rust without effecting the underlying metal. The process is basically a bath of Baking soda and water (1 TBL Spoon/Gallon) a stainless steel baking pan and a battery charger. + lead to the baking pan, - lead to the part to be cleaned....turn on the juice for an hour or so. Read more on the process here: http://www.thepontiactransampage.com/rust.htmlhttp://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/Miscellaneous/Rust_Removal.htm

Please re-read the link you posted... He says to use a 2-5 gallon plastic container. There is a reason for that. Whatever you do, DO NOT use stainless steel as your sacrificial anode or the pan/container in this process. The process of electrolysis reacts with the chromium in the stainless and turns it into hexavalent chromate, a poisonous, carcinogen, and (at least in the U.S.) is a hazardous material that is illegal to dump. Always use a non-metallic container to hold the electrolyte bath.

Please review this link too. http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

 

[walter g]

Your doing a great job. Really neat project, would love to find one myself.

Since you show a great pic of the seat your working on, I thought I'd mention Wheel horse must of out-sourced there seats. Here is a pic of my 1959 David Bradley Suburban with original seat.

They must of got there seats from the same supplier.