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Discussion Starter #1
Hello folks! My account was just activated this morning and boy do I have some questions for you knowledgable Simplicity owners.

I used to have an old Snapper LT16 that was a workhorse beyond compare. Unfortunately the transmission failed and repairs were more costly than I wanted to get into. I really would rather put the money into another older tractor that had more attachments available. Well, yesterday I bought an older Simplicity Sovereign 7016 for $250.

We got it to start once but it ran like...well you know. I am going to rebuild the carb and hopefully that solves a lot of the problem. The Welch plug is missing so I made a temporary one.

Here are the numbers as best I can tell. The Simplicity ID plate is very faded and my old eyes aren't what they used to be:

ID: 680006 (there may be more, but the plate is very difficult to read)
Ser: 002941 (This number is accurate. It is more legible than the ID number)

The engine is a Briggs:

Model: 326434
Type: 0190-01
Code: 7412131

The model and type are accurate, the date code may be missing a number at the end. I have to sand off a bit of surface rust to be sure.

A few things I need to know are:

1. Any idea what year this is? I'm guessing mid to late '70's.

2. Is there a good online source for parts? I have no Simplicity dealer near me.

3. Besides re-building the carb and cleaning the fuel tank and lines, what else should I look at doing?

If the weather will co-operate I will get some pics up shortly.

Thanks for any help you may offer.
 

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judging by the engine..its a '74 - providing its original

I'm wondering where to get parts myself..i'm in the same boat as you..only my sim is a bit "newer"

but to answer your other question...my guess is to make sure the points are cleaned and you have a good healthy spark...someone more knowledgeable will probably be along to give a better suggestion
 

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Discussion Starter #3
If this works, here are several pics:

The rear view:



A close up of the rear view:



Left Side:



Right Side:



Left Engine:



Right Engine:



and the homemade temporary welch plug...no laughing...:




Also as an update, the engine numbers are accurate as posted above. The tractor ID does have a 1 at the beginning 1680006 as best as we can tell.
 

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:Welcome1:

It's great to have another Mountaineer here. Congrats on the tractor too. I'm sure that these guys will help you get that machine running great.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks dj2! I'm in Brooke county just outside of Follansbee (north of Wheeling if you're not familiar with the northern panhandle).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The tires are 25 x 10-12's. They are actually tires for a quad. I want to find another set of rims to put some lawn tires on. I like the quad tires for the garden, but I don't think the lawn will appreciate them much...LOL.

I just drained the fuel tank and got a lot of water out of it. I want to try to drain the carb, but can't find a drain anywhere. The bottom of the float bowl appears to have a pressed in plug.
 

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MontyJ:MTF_wel: to the forum. You have picked up a nice piece of old iron and once you get the bugs out you will be happy with that tractor. Besides the fuel system I would do a good oil change,check the plug for carbon build up and proper gap. I would also check the hydrostat fluid level and maybe change the fluid and filter. Nice to see another simplicity guy. I have a 7117H around an 83 and wouldn't trade it for anything new.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thank you Art! Heres an update:

I tore the carb apart and cleaned it out. It still won't start even with a clean fuel system and fresh gas. It has spark but I noticed a couple of things:

1. After cranking it for awhile fuel begins leaking out of the weep hole in the bottom of the carb.

2. The spark plug is dry.

Seeing the fuel leaking made me think it was flooding out, but why would the plug be dry as a bone? I think I just need to re-build the carb and go from there. I just wanted to hear it run. When I looked at it the other day the previous owner was able to get it to start, but it took a pretty long time. I am now surprised that it did start considering the amount of water I drained from the fuel tank. When he started it, the welch plug was missing and I held my hand over the opening (got a nice backfire in the face for my efforts too...LOL). But now it won't even fire.

I keep going back to "Why is that spark plug dry?"

I also ran a compression test. It's reading 90 psi which can't be all that bad for it's age. Of course, without a book, I don't know for sure.

Say, Art, looking at the pic in your sig does give me an idea. I have a 16 twin Briggs from the old snapper still sitting in the barn. That engine runs like a scalded dog. I wonder how much trouble it would be to just change engines. I would loose the front PTO, but I doubt I will ever use it anyway. The 16 twin has an electric clutch where the PTO would be. Hmmm, time to go take some measurements.
 

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The 7016 was introduced in 1975, although some early ones might have appeared in 1974.

Use a finger pump oil can to shoot some gas right into the plug hole and see if that will light it off. If you are getting that good of compression, you should be getting enough vacuum to suck the gas up there. Could be still something plugging the fuel passage.

Gas leaking down on these old carbs is just about standard. When adjusted properly they will not drip or leak while running but will when they are left to sit. That is why you will find most of them with the inline fuel shut off valve.

As far as parts go, the best place for knowledgeable, courteous people on this older stuff is Sandy Lake Implement.
Sandy Lake Implement
3675 Sandy Lake Rd
Sandy Lake, PA 16145
888-252-0656
www.sandylakeimp.com

You can also try Jack's Small Engines online.

You can download the manuals for your tractor at:
http://www.simplicitymfg.com/manuals/index.cfm?rd=1

If you want to try to put that twin in your chassis, you will most likely have to notch the side rails on the tractor frame like they did on the 7117's.
 

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Sounds like a nice engine you have available. When I pulled the kohler 17 twin(blown when I bought it) from mine and put the Onan in the foot print was just a little bigger one way so I had to drill two new mounting holes for it. It sat up about an eight of an inch higher than the Kohler but the drive shaft still bolted up ok. The other thing I had to do was I put the dual exhaust on due to the fact that the stock onan exhaust interfered with the hood. That ended up being a bonus cause I like the looks of the pipes and the sound.:D The motor actually seemed to run better with this exhaust as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thank you simplelife. I used your link and found the manual for this old tractor. It is a 7016H model 1690006. Mine does have the fuel shut-off as you described. I was also taking some measurements and you are also correct in that I may indeed have to notch the frame a bit.

Art, I have dual exhaust on the 16 twin already, but it won't fit the hood of the Simplicity :( Where did you find the twin stacks? I like the look of that as well.
 

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The stacks themselves I bought at TSC, them took some 1 1/4" emt conduit
cut and welded a set of offsets to bring them outside the hood. Took the original manifold pipes cut them off about 3" or so above the mounting flange and welded the offsets I made to these. Bolted them back up them mounted the stacks. It worked out quite well. The cuts offs on the original pipes were just after the bent on the flange. One is a little longer than the other to try and keep them as even as possible. Once I had everything done pulled them back off and gave everything a couple good coats of flat black hi temp header paint. I can take a couple of pics of these and post them for you if you want.
 

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Could be still something plugging the fuel passage.
I'd have to agree . Had the same issue even after "cleaning" the carb . Ended up just spending the $17 and getting a rebuild kit . No problems since . Excluding of course, the tank being bad .
 

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Art probably the most complete information source for the old Simplicitys is www.simpletractors.com . As Mike(simplelife) says, Sandy Lake Implement is one of the best parts sources anywhere.

Larry
 

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Art probably the most complete information source for the old Simplicitys is www.simpletractors.com . As Mike(simplelife) says, Sandy Lake Implement is one of the best parts sources anywhere.

Larry
Yes any information on simplicity tractors and AC tractors and implements can be found here. I have visited this many times myself. MontyJ was also inquiring asking about the exhaust set up I have on my simplicity that is in my signature
which is not stock and can't be found there.
 

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Yes any information on simplicity tractors and AC tractors and implements can be found here. I have visited this many times myself. MontyJ was also inquiring asking about the exhaust set up I have on my simplicity that is in my signature
which is not stock and can't be found there.
Sorry Art! I meant to direct this post to Monty but had a moment of brain fade:hide: .
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, I got it running. I'm waiting for the carb kit to show up, but since I have to work out of town it may be a couple of weeks before I get back home to tinker on it.

I ended up cleaning and re-setting the points which were gapped too small, and put a new plug and fuel filter in. I then went through the manual and adjusted the carb. Finally, a little squirt of gas into the plug hole and fired it up. It still has a pretty good miss which gets worse if the mower deck is running.

I'll try the carb kit and see if it helps. If not I will re-power it with the 16 twin. I would like to see the pics of your exhaust setup Art. I may be getting into something similar if I can't get this 16 single to perform how I like. Personally, I can't weld, but I know a few farmers who can.
 

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MontyJ, here are a couple of pics of the pipe set up. Welded wasn't as good as usual as it had been awhile and the material is thin.


 
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