I've been having a problem with my deck as well. My problem is not front to back, but side to side. I've been playing with the front hitch adjustments (after breaking them lose:banghead3 ) The front to back can be the two bars on the side, they have two adjustments... also the front hitch should have two threaded rods to fix your front to back problem.
New member and new MF12G owner. Have a few questions.
Hi gang,
I just purchased a MF12G with serial #1446804456 I would like to know what year it is. There are a few things that needs some attention but it still runs pretty good and mows alright. The mower deck needs adjusted, the back sits higher then the front and from what I remember on a mower deck the back should be lower then the front. Also the blades need sharpened.
The other problem I have is it will throw the drive belt for the mower deck when you press the pedal to stop the deck. It is the small belt on the right side of the tractor. The pulley's aren't aligned very well. The tensioner pulley is the one that is off the most. I don't know if it would be best to bend the bar to push it in a little bit or not. I also bought a mf10g for parts and the tensioner pulley is a little better aligned but they are both off about the same amount from the motor pulley to the shaft pulley.
I also wanted to ask if it is normal for these tractors to turn sharper to the left then to the right. I went to adjust the steering stops and it will turn all the way to the left against the stop but when you turn it to the right it doesn't come close to the stop, you can push the tire some more and it will go all the way against then. I also need to check on the steering tube because it is loose and it allows the upper bushing to come out of the tube and makes the steering wheel wobble. Hopefully it is just small items or stuff that just needs adjusted properly.
The tractor runs great once it is running, it isn't the easiest to start and I need to get a battery for it yet and I am sure once the last bit of old gas is gone and I find what settings she likes to be started it will fire right off. It actually fired off pretty easy at the end of the day. I am sure the points could be cleaned or replaced and the carb needs tuned, it is a little rich, it belched a little black when it gets a load on it all of a sudden.
I am going to mow with it all summer and maybe take it to one of the shows since we have one local and then this winter I plan on restoring it.
I appreciate any information.
Thanks,
George
I just purchased a MF12G with serial #1446804456 I would like to know what year it is. There are a few things that needs some attention but it still runs pretty good and mows alright. The mower deck needs adjusted, the back sits higher then the front and from what I remember on a mower deck the back should be lower then the front. Also the blades need sharpened.
The other problem I have is it will throw the drive belt for the mower deck when you press the pedal to stop the deck. It is the small belt on the right side of the tractor. The pulley's aren't aligned very well. The tensioner pulley is the one that is off the most. I don't know if it would be best to bend the bar to push it in a little bit or not. I also bought a mf10g for parts and the tensioner pulley is a little better aligned but they are both off about the same amount from the motor pulley to the shaft pulley.
I also wanted to ask if it is normal for these tractors to turn sharper to the left then to the right. I went to adjust the steering stops and it will turn all the way to the left against the stop but when you turn it to the right it doesn't come close to the stop, you can push the tire some more and it will go all the way against then. I also need to check on the steering tube because it is loose and it allows the upper bushing to come out of the tube and makes the steering wheel wobble. Hopefully it is just small items or stuff that just needs adjusted properly.
The tractor runs great once it is running, it isn't the easiest to start and I need to get a battery for it yet and I am sure once the last bit of old gas is gone and I find what settings she likes to be started it will fire right off. It actually fired off pretty easy at the end of the day. I am sure the points could be cleaned or replaced and the carb needs tuned, it is a little rich, it belched a little black when it gets a load on it all of a sudden.
I am going to mow with it all summer and maybe take it to one of the shows since we have one local and then this winter I plan on restoring it.
I appreciate any information.
Thanks,
George
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
I believe I got the problem fixed with the belt jumping off, I had the belt on the outer slot on the pulley on the motor because the inner slot was really off. I managed to slid the motor pulley out a little further and now everything lines up pretty good and I robbed the belt off of the parts mf10 I bought.
The problem with my mower deck is the front of the deck is lower then the rear by about an inch and the rear wheels are already adjusted to the lowest point. I will have to take a picture of it. I don't think it is an original massey deck because didn't the massey decks have one solid roller along the back and the belts were exposed? Maybe I can get smaller wheels for the back of the deck, the ones on there now look like wheels off of a cheap push mower.
The other question I have too is, on the drag link that connects both the front spindles, is it supposed to be on the top or under the spindles? My right side touches the mower drive belt when it is disengaged and if they were on the bottom I would have almost an inch clearance.
When I had the front end off the ground the steering would turn all the way to the right against the stop like it does to the left when the tractor is on the ground. Once I let it down it would only turn about half way. Maybe the steering box needs rebuilt?
The problem with my mower deck is the front of the deck is lower then the rear by about an inch and the rear wheels are already adjusted to the lowest point. I will have to take a picture of it. I don't think it is an original massey deck because didn't the massey decks have one solid roller along the back and the belts were exposed? Maybe I can get smaller wheels for the back of the deck, the ones on there now look like wheels off of a cheap push mower.
The other question I have too is, on the drag link that connects both the front spindles, is it supposed to be on the top or under the spindles? My right side touches the mower drive belt when it is disengaged and if they were on the bottom I would have almost an inch clearance.
When I had the front end off the ground the steering would turn all the way to the right against the stop like it does to the left when the tractor is on the ground. Once I let it down it would only turn about half way. Maybe the steering box needs rebuilt?
One of the only things I don't like about these tractors, would be the turning radius. It's not tight at all. Yes, you are correct, you can not make any tight right turns or the tire will hit the pto pulley. You can adjust the stop, as already mentioned, to prevent that from happening.
Hey Tweidman, first off I love your massey. Do you happen to have a 42" massey mower deck? I think I know what the problem is with my mower deck not sitting at the right height/angle. I think it is supposed to have a steel roller that runs all the way across the back with a steel shaft that goes through the whole thing. Who ever had it before must have taken that off and put push mower type wheels on it and they are too tall. I want to make a new steel roller and i will weld new end plates on it but I need to find out what diameter the roller is supposed to be and what the thickness is. I was thinking about using schedule 40 pipe but that may be too thick.
I need to figure out why mine doesn't turn all the way to the right, that and the tube that goes over the steering shaft can move up and down and allows the top bushing to pop out and really makes the steering wheel wobble. I have the steering box and everything from the 10 I bought for parts but I don't know if the steering boxes are the same. Anyone have any tricks to getting the steering wheel popped off without messing it up?
I need to figure out why mine doesn't turn all the way to the right, that and the tube that goes over the steering shaft can move up and down and allows the top bushing to pop out and really makes the steering wheel wobble. I have the steering box and everything from the 10 I bought for parts but I don't know if the steering boxes are the same. Anyone have any tricks to getting the steering wheel popped off without messing it up?
No I don't have a deck for mine. I had one but traded it. If I remember correctly the roller on the back was about 3 to 4" in dia.
I'm almost positive the steering column is the same on the 10.
PB blaster on the steering wheel to column shaft joint, let it soak, then sit on the seat, out your legs against/under the wheel, and push up with your legs and wiggle the wheel with your hands. That has worked a couple of times for me.
I tried a wheel puller once, and just ended up with a broken steering wheel.
I'm almost positive the steering column is the same on the 10.
PB blaster on the steering wheel to column shaft joint, let it soak, then sit on the seat, out your legs against/under the wheel, and push up with your legs and wiggle the wheel with your hands. That has worked a couple of times for me.
I tried a wheel puller once, and just ended up with a broken steering wheel.
I appreciate the information. I am going to make a roller this weekend.
I did alot of reading in the last week trying to find as much info as I could and I thought I recalled not using a puller because of it breaking the steering wheel. The steering wheel on my 12 isn't the best but it isn't that bad either, the wheel on the 10 is so dried out and cracked it wouldn't matter to me what happened with it but the steering box on that one feels tighter and the tube doesn't move on that one.
As for it not turning much to the right that is on it's pulling stroke and if it is worn or something is flexing or if it is just not adjusted right then it might not be going far enough when there is weight on the front end because it is past it's point where it has the strength to pull. I want to undo all of the steering linkages and reset everything in the middle and see if that helps. I know it doesn't turn the sharpest but if I can get it to turn as sharp to the right as it does to the left then I will be a happy camper.
I did alot of reading in the last week trying to find as much info as I could and I thought I recalled not using a puller because of it breaking the steering wheel. The steering wheel on my 12 isn't the best but it isn't that bad either, the wheel on the 10 is so dried out and cracked it wouldn't matter to me what happened with it but the steering box on that one feels tighter and the tube doesn't move on that one.
As for it not turning much to the right that is on it's pulling stroke and if it is worn or something is flexing or if it is just not adjusted right then it might not be going far enough when there is weight on the front end because it is past it's point where it has the strength to pull. I want to undo all of the steering linkages and reset everything in the middle and see if that helps. I know it doesn't turn the sharpest but if I can get it to turn as sharp to the right as it does to the left then I will be a happy camper.
If you have a roller that would be great. I will take some pics of everything to verify that it is all massey stuff.
I tried pulling the steering wheels off of both my 12 and the parts 10 and I can't get either one to budge. Anyone have any other hints other then a steering wheel puller. The steering wheel on the parts 10 I don't care about but the one on the 12 is in good shape. The parts 10 is in pretty rough shape, it looks like it has sat outside for the last 15 years or more but surprisingly the steering box is in excellent shape. The motor is free and turns over but it didn't have a spark plug in it so there is dirt down in there. The rear seems to be in decent shape and the ammeter is in great shape and I want to test the starter and the ignition and see if that is all working. I think I will end up with some decent usable parts for either mine or other members. I just wish I could get the steering wheels pulled.
Wasn't someone on here selling mower blades at a decent price?
I tried pulling the steering wheels off of both my 12 and the parts 10 and I can't get either one to budge. Anyone have any other hints other then a steering wheel puller. The steering wheel on the parts 10 I don't care about but the one on the 12 is in good shape. The parts 10 is in pretty rough shape, it looks like it has sat outside for the last 15 years or more but surprisingly the steering box is in excellent shape. The motor is free and turns over but it didn't have a spark plug in it so there is dirt down in there. The rear seems to be in decent shape and the ammeter is in great shape and I want to test the starter and the ignition and see if that is all working. I think I will end up with some decent usable parts for either mine or other members. I just wish I could get the steering wheels pulled.
Wasn't someone on here selling mower blades at a decent price?
Hi
I recently removed the wheel on my 8 and it would not come off without using a puller. I used a 2 arm puller -the type with a flat bar that you slide the arms onto and you can adjust them in and out. I put them all the way in and hooked them under the center bushing portion of the wheel. Metal to metal contact - they did not push against the vinyl part of the wheel. It popped right off without any damage. I had been soaking it for a while in wd40. If you can pull on the actual bushing it can take a lot of force without damaging it. It's a pretty solid chunk of steel.
Cheers
Brian
I recently removed the wheel on my 8 and it would not come off without using a puller. I used a 2 arm puller -the type with a flat bar that you slide the arms onto and you can adjust them in and out. I put them all the way in and hooked them under the center bushing portion of the wheel. Metal to metal contact - they did not push against the vinyl part of the wheel. It popped right off without any damage. I had been soaking it for a while in wd40. If you can pull on the actual bushing it can take a lot of force without damaging it. It's a pretty solid chunk of steel.
Cheers
Brian
I will have to see what I can come up with for a puller for the steering wheel. The only puller i have right now is a harmonic balancer puller.
I figured I would post some pics of my mf12 and the mf10 for parts. I am also posting a pic of the mower deck because I would like to confirm that it is a massey deck. The only massey decks that I have seen only have covers on the belts at each end and this one has a cover over all of it.
Please don't mind the mess, we just moved in last week and we still have a lot of stuff to put away.
I figured I would post some pics of my mf12 and the mf10 for parts. I am also posting a pic of the mower deck because I would like to confirm that it is a massey deck. The only massey decks that I have seen only have covers on the belts at each end and this one has a cover over all of it.
Please don't mind the mess, we just moved in last week and we still have a lot of stuff to put away.
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I belive that it is a Massey deck, but it might be slightly newer than the tractor. The wheels are definatly not factory and the roller is the right way to go. I wish my 12 was in that good a shape when i bought it. I had to mount the front axle, and put wires in for the battery, but it ran after having the starter changed. I would soak the steering wheel with PB blaster or WD40 before trying anything. Good luck with the steering, and remember that arm on the left spindle.
I appreciate the input fordmustang. Speaking of which I am guessing you are a ford nut too? I am bringing my 72 f100 shortbed home this weekend. It is somewhere around 600hp. It's a shame I can't use that in the tractor lmao.
I am waiting to hear back from jeepranger about the roller before I make one. It will be nice having the deck sitting the right height and angle.
Can anyone please correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the belt for the jackshaft go on the inner rib of the motor pulley? From what I have read or seen I think it does. My problem is the pulley on the engagement pedal is about an inch out of alignment. I guess I can just pull the pedal assembly off again and try bending the arm a little bit at a time till it is right. I just want to confirm the location of the belt before I do so.
I got a new battery 420cca for it yesterday and also got new battery leads for it. Before I got the battery I would just jump it and it would stay running. Does this mean it should charge the new battery? I also need to figure out the ammeter. It doesn't budge when cranking the motor over, I have the gauge out of the other parts tractor I can try.
As for the spindle I will be careful if I have to remove it. I also have the one from the parts tractor that looks like it is brand new.
I am waiting to hear back from jeepranger about the roller before I make one. It will be nice having the deck sitting the right height and angle.
Can anyone please correct me if I am wrong but doesn't the belt for the jackshaft go on the inner rib of the motor pulley? From what I have read or seen I think it does. My problem is the pulley on the engagement pedal is about an inch out of alignment. I guess I can just pull the pedal assembly off again and try bending the arm a little bit at a time till it is right. I just want to confirm the location of the belt before I do so.
I got a new battery 420cca for it yesterday and also got new battery leads for it. Before I got the battery I would just jump it and it would stay running. Does this mean it should charge the new battery? I also need to figure out the ammeter. It doesn't budge when cranking the motor over, I have the gauge out of the other parts tractor I can try.
As for the spindle I will be careful if I have to remove it. I also have the one from the parts tractor that looks like it is brand new.
Yes, i am a ford nut. My username is an actual mustang too. It is my granfather's '84 GT with t-roof. The belt should be on the inner groove of the engine pulley, and I would try to move the engine pulleyt first before I tried bending the arm. I could take a picture of the PTO on my 1 2if you want. It would be coolto put a 600 hp motor in a tractor. I think I've seen one before. I'll look it up.
Yes, the engine should charge the battery, and I would try to switch the ammeter off the ten first, and if the does not work, then you might need a wireing diagram. Twiedman has one from the MasseyFerguson tractor group on Yahoo. Ask him if he can post it in the thread for you.
Yes, the engine should charge the battery, and I would try to switch the ammeter off the ten first, and if the does not work, then you might need a wireing diagram. Twiedman has one from the MasseyFerguson tractor group on Yahoo. Ask him if he can post it in the thread for you.
If you could take a pic that would be great. The problem is I moved the motor pulley out so it would line up with the pulley on the jackshaft but when they are aligned it doesn't line up with the engagement pulley. The only way it was the closest was when the belt was on the outer slot on the motor pulley and the pulleys on the jack shaft slid as tight as possible.
I will try the ammeter from the 10, I put new battery cables on and someone put a inline 20 amp fuse for the ammeter and they used a household wire nut LOL, so I took that off and soldered the wires and put shrink wrap on them so it is a little cleaner and better for now till I restore it in the winter. I think they have the wiring right on the ammeter, at least according to the pic that tweidman posted in the other thread and the wiring diagram that I seen. What does the gauge usually read when you are cranking it over?
I can't believe how quick it starts now. All i have to do now is put the choke all the way up and set the throttle about half way and it starts in the first two revolutions and then just drop the choke down.
I will have my little pick up home tomorrow, I had an incident with 4 valve springs breaking and one broke in 6 pieces and let the one exhaust valve kiss the piston, thankfully though it stayed in the head and didn't drop completely. That was with only 200 mile on the motor. The wife wasn't happy LOL.
I will try the ammeter from the 10, I put new battery cables on and someone put a inline 20 amp fuse for the ammeter and they used a household wire nut LOL, so I took that off and soldered the wires and put shrink wrap on them so it is a little cleaner and better for now till I restore it in the winter. I think they have the wiring right on the ammeter, at least according to the pic that tweidman posted in the other thread and the wiring diagram that I seen. What does the gauge usually read when you are cranking it over?
I can't believe how quick it starts now. All i have to do now is put the choke all the way up and set the throttle about half way and it starts in the first two revolutions and then just drop the choke down.
I will have my little pick up home tomorrow, I had an incident with 4 valve springs breaking and one broke in 6 pieces and let the one exhaust valve kiss the piston, thankfully though it stayed in the head and didn't drop completely. That was with only 200 mile on the motor. The wife wasn't happy LOL.
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
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