Hi all from Ohio. I recently acquired a Colt 2712 and I want to fix it up. I found this sight and I'm hoping to get some help. :thanku:
Yes Sir... it is a little treasure and one that I'd love to own myself. Work closely with Steve and you will end up with something you will be proud to own and perhaps pass down to one of your children.Thank you for the detailed information. I'm not going to work this tractor hard for sure as I realize how important it is to preserve it. I envisioned it as a snow plower for my driveway and pull my kids around with the trailer. I don't think that would be too much.
The axle shafts and motor input shaft fail by twisting off due to procedures that require high amounts of torque. Mowing your lawn or pulling you kids in a trailer are low torque uses but pushing snow or plowing a garden can often be high torque situations.
I wasn't going to restore it until I realized that someone had already re-painted it at one time. I like the original un-touched look to tractors if they are original.
There were 4 models of Colt in 1966. You have the one that came with 16" rear rubber and a 12 HP engine. The one in the photo is a 2510 that came with 15" rear tires and a 10 hp Tec. The 2310 was fitted with 12" rear rims and a 10 hp Tec and as did the 2110 but it had a Peerless manual transmission in it instead of the Hydra-Drive (formerly called Colt-A-Matic). 1966 was the final year Colts were made.
We have a "Corn Festival" in my hometown where I plan on showing it. The number you posted for Steve looks like a local number for me. Wouldn't it be ironic if Steve lives close by? I'm wondering if he goes to the Corn Festival here in Wilmington, OH.
Steve lives 80 miles north of you and it's a one hour and 45 minute trip that would be well worth your while. Steve's collection of old Case and Colt tractors is one of the best in the country if not the very best. He now has the ONLY Case 190 forklift known to still exist.
My front end does have a stress crack. I'm a certified welder so that's not a problem. The front axle where it pivots is worn pretty good also it seems. There is a lot of slop when turning the steering wheel. The axle rocks forward and backward. I plan on taking it apart and seeing how it can be repaired.
The axles are cast steel and not difficult to repair. I suggest that you bore out the pivot hole and bush it back to stock with either a steel or bronze insert.
The rear hitch has been welded solid in a couple places, so I have to fix that as well.
Everything else seems good on it. I'll just have to get it running to see if the hydros work, but I don't see why it wouldn't.
Actually, the term "hydros" doesn't apply. These tractors are hydraulic drive, not hydrostatic drive ....which is what makes them unique. Pumps and motors are still available and can be sourced for reasonable prices if needed. You will need to empty the trans-axle of whatever might be in there at the moment. If you go to the Ingersoll site and download the parts book, you will see that there is a pick-up screen for the hydraulic system inside the trans-axle. Remove the steel suction line and then use a deep socket to remove the suction screen for cleaning. If there is a lot of foreign matter inside the trans-axle, then flush it clean with diesel fuel. Once clean, soak up the remaining diesel with some old rags.
Refill the trans-axle with 10 quarts of #30W motor oil. Shell's Rotella T is a good choice. If you are intending to use the tractor in the winter months, then use 15W40 Rotella.
I wasn't aware that the front tires were an option. That's good to know. I would have put the wrong tires on it. The serial number is 663004. I don't know how that can be traced down, but it may or may not help with something.
Unfortunately, Case apparently kept no records of the serial numbers of the tractors they made prior to 1972 and that includes the Colts. Steve will want your serial number to give to Jim Daenzer so he can add your tractor to his registry.
I feel like I have found a little treasure and I can't wait to share what I've learned about it to others.
I'll definitely ask Steve about it when I call him. I want to get all of my ducks in a row so I can lay a bunch of questions on him at once. I don't want to hound the fella every couple of days with something new. Does he happen to have a website?Call Steve Guider. He may know of someone in need of a deck or even that blade. It's a start.
I was thinking that it was supposed to be hooked up to the hydraulics but I wasn't sure. Thanks again for the lesson.As I said before, your tractor is fitted with the optional hydraulic implement lift that I wasn't even aware was available in 1966 because it does not show up in the parts manuals until the 155/195 models were out. I suspect that there was some sort of a "lift link bar" that connected the hitch to the hydraulic implement lift but you don't have it. In the early years, Case relied upon Brinly-Hardy to make sleeve hitches for them. When the 200/400 series tractors were produced, Case moved quickly to engineer their own 3 pt CAT 0 hitch plus their own sleeve hitch. Those sleeve hitches all came with a removable lift link bar to connect them to either the manual lift or the hydraulic lift.
I think that if you carefully examine the hitch you have, you will find a short arm welded onto the right side of it with a hole in the end or perhaps a pin sticking out. It's just a guess on my part but once again, a chat with Steve might clear that issue up for you very quickly because he's seen quite a few Colts over the years he's been collecting. He may have some factory literature on the hitch that he would photocopy for you.