New Holland 1925 Year 1997

donimbimbo said:

Does the 1925 have glow plugs? Are they working? My 1100 will act that way once the temp drops below 20F and it has glow plugs. So I added a block heater. 30 minutes with the heater on and it starts like a cool spring day.

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It does have glow plugs but where are they? I sure can't find em!
Thanks,,:dunno:

My glow plugs are pretty obvious.

You will see a black wire just to the left of the intake and a bare metal wire running to the second glow plug.

donimbimbo said:

My glow plugs are pretty obvious.

You will see a black wire just to the left of the intake and a bare metal wire running to the second glow plug.

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Hey, thanks for the photo. Threw me for a minute, my starter is on the other side. (Is that the coil ON the starter? I can't see how it would come off, are they packaged together? I had thought that if the coil had gone, it would die that quickly). It did like I had pulled the kill button UP ) I have pushed on IT manually, once a couple of years ago the screw was loose and I learned to pull the steel braid through then tighten the screw, it APPEARS to be OK.

I just find it hard to believe that one bad glow plug would do this. Would it? They are inexpensive. I MUST get it running this week. Chores are piling up. Time to till the huge garden, time for the landscape box to make about 4 trips in and out the 2500' lane, some potholes appearing from the winter weather.
Some loose hay at the outside of one storage bin where i guess the mice chewed through the baling twine now I have loose hay spilling out.

Going to try one more time to jump it today using my F-350 Super Duty with that humongous set of dual batteries and an 185 amp alternator. That will crank it over pretty fast. I am at a total loss.

:thanku:for the help!

Rick

See the glowplugs next to the injectors, the Orange wire feeds them power. The item ubove is called an intake heater

skyrydr2 said:

See the glowplugs next to the injectors, the Orange wire feeds them power. The item ubove is called an intake heater

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Well, that helps a lot! I didn't realize I was looking right at the glow plugs above the injector lines! Now I can get my ammeter and check the orange wire for power, Should I expect +12vdc on the orange wire feeding the black? This makes a lot of thing clear. If they been snakes they would have bit me. Tomorrow is supposed to be 75 and no rain here in NR KY so,,,,we'll see.

If you ever need computer help let me know. I build computers from the ground up at night for cancer research. Always have lot's of spare parts too! Just say the word!.

Thanks Skyryrdr! Will let you know. Since the glow plug light goes after after a couple of seconds of cranking I have been assuming they were OK but we;ll jump the big F-350 to it tomorrow too,

2005 F-350 dually
2008 - King Ranch F-250
2008 Land Rover 4.0 litre
2012 Jeep Cherokee Unlimited

Rick

My picture is of a 2 cylinder Shibaura where you have a 3 cylinder. There is no "coil" on diesels. That "thing" on the starter is a solenoid to engage the starter pinion into the flywheel. Not all starters use this approach. Some use what is called a Bendix drive where the pinion sits on a screw type shaft.

Networker4321 said:

Hey, thanks for the photo. Threw me for a minute, my starter is on the other side. (Is that the coil ON the starter? I can't see how it would come off, are they packaged together?

Rick

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donimbimbo said:

My picture is of a 2 cylinder Shibaura where you have a 3 cylinder. There is no "coil" on diesels. That "thing" on the starter is a solenoid to engage the starter pinion into the flywheel. Not all starters use this approach. Some use what is called a Bendix drive where the pinion sits on a screw type shaft.

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Great, Thanks for the response. My MDL 1925 uses the "spin type" pinion, pretty sure. I can overhaul a gasoline engine in the dark but NOT a diesel.

Today is supposed to be nice weather so I'll be working on the tractor!

Thanks again!

skyrydr2 said:

Yours may not have an Orange wire, that picture is of my LGT s engine. But yours should be quite similar. When your cranking it, is black or gray smoke coming from the exaust? If not you have a fuel problem.

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I checked today while we were double checking everything and jump starting. There is ZERO gray or black smoke. I replaced the fuel filter cartridge innnnn the bowl but one of the good old boys at church said there is another fuel filter down lower. I think I found it, although it looks like an oil filter but it is not. My oil filter is on the other side.

Tomorrow I will turn off the fuel switch and take that filter off. We had some slightly dirty deisel delivered by the coop but the pump filter and the bowl filter caught a bunch. Could be this round metal filter could be the issue. I do remember when it stopped, the first couple of times I cranked again, it hit a couple of times but no start. Gotta be the answer. I need my tractor now! :thanku: :crybaby:

That is most likely your issue, no fuel... No start...
Diesel fuel and water don't mix, so any water will stop the flow of diesel fuel right away.
Follow the fuel line from the bottom of the tank, if you come across a filter, replace it, turn fuel switch on first, with the filter off to be sure you still have fuel flowing from the tank, if so replace that filter and carry on following the line and checking for fuel flow.
Make sure you have good fuel flow at the injectorpump, then you will need to crack loose the injectors lines at the injectors and bleed them. As soon as you have fuel at them, all 3 , (it will spit at different times at each line, like the spark on an ignition engine) tighten them, cycle the glowplugs , and start the engine.
You may need to help the fuel along by blowing into the fuel tank, do this carefully and very slowly or you could damage it . I like to use the output end of a shop vac .
Good luck

donimbimbo said:

On my 1100 there is a petcock drain right at the injector pump. If you have one on your 19xx then open that to make sure you have fuel to there. You may not have to wrench open the fuel line at the pump.

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Great idea! I did find a nechanic, he worked at the local NH deakership in the shop. I had a couple of guys out to fix a leaking water hydrant. They gave me his number and a great recommendation.

Thanks,

skyrydr2 said:

That is most likely your issue, no fuel... No start...
Diesel fuel and water don't mix, so any water will stop the flow of diesel fuel right away.
Follow the fuel line from the bottom of the tank, if you come across a filter, replace it, turn fuel switch on first, with the filter off to be sure you still have fuel flowing from the tank, if so replace that filter and carry on following the line and checking for fuel flow.
Make sure you have good fuel flow at the injectorpump, then you will need to crack loose the injectors lines at the injectors and bleed them. As soon as you have fuel at them, all 3 , (it will spit at different times at each line, like the spark on an ignition engine) tighten them, cycle the glowplugs , and start the engine.
You may need to help the fuel along by blowing into the fuel tank, do this carefully and very slowly or you could damage it . I like to use the output end of a shop vac .
Good luck

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I apologize, i thought I had responded but, just came across this in my email, followed the link ( mail was unopened ).

So I read your advise, maybe i had only read part of it, that would NOT be like me! I have not followed fuel flow all the way. A previous post had said to crack one injector line, I did, I didn't unscrew it all the way out, just loosened until I could get a leak, it wasn't much, maybe that's a clue. ( My mechanic can't be here until Saturday, I will follow ALL of your directions.) I did notice a block where all the fuel lines go before it heads for the glowplugs, didn't realize that was an injector pump. It seriously looks like an aluminum block with 2,3? large aluminum screw heads.(flat tip)

Remember, I am an NT Consultant and have never had a problem with this wonderful machine since Christmas of 1997! Now, I need it for 4 jobs that are waiting a bit,,uuh,,,impatiently. :banghead3

Now, I have a nice, big shop vac. It's good size so I want to be careful. At exactly what point in your instructions would I use it? When I have all three injector lines loose at the block? ( Assuming there is flow at the pump.) I would suppose I shouldn't put a really good seal around the fill up hole using my hand, so what, a loose enough grip I have almost as much air coming back out as I am blowing in?

Your plan sounds like it should fix the issue. I do know for a fact that when I replaced the fuel bowl filter and turned the flow lever back to on,,, the bowl filled in an instant.And, I can't find any other filter. What I thought was a cartridge type ( same as the oil filter ) when I wiped it off just to get the crud off and a good grip, it said "hydraulic". It's very straight forward. The entire fuel line system from where it comes from the tank to the block is right there in front of me. Is there any chance the injector lines go INTO the glow plugs?

I know Oil Pressure is fine. After cranking only a few seconds the oil pressure light goes off. Even checked water/antifreeze yesterday. But for sure, there is NO grey or black smoke coming out the exhaust ( side flow) when I am cranking it. I even took off both hot and ground and made beautifully shiny insides on the connectors and scraped nice little strips off the battery poles, insuring I am getting a good ground.

I'll be back with a Big Thank You when this works. I really appreciate the assistance. Need any free computer parts or software, repair? You got it.

Rick

Use the vac long enough to verify fuel at the injector pump, if you have good fuel flow then you don't need it.

Rick, does the tractor shut off with the key ? If so make sure the solinoid for fuel cut off is clicking when the key is turned on and again when off. You may have an electrical issue if you have good fuel flow as it enters the injector pump .
1. Looking at the injector pump, you will see the 3 injector lines coming out the top and going to each injector, each injector will have a small line connecting them together , (this is extra fuel return to tank) ,
2. Remove these lines at the pump, enough so you can see fuel sqirt out, if it does not sqirt out decent when cranking, your fuel shut off solinoid has either no power too it or has failed.
This must be fixed before it will start.

skyrydr2 said:

Well? Did you get it going yet ? Inquiring minds would like to know

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Skyrydr2,

Headed down there right now, pulling the F-350 up close enough to jump when I am ready. First, I have to take off all of the decorative shielding ( 4 bolts ) so I can get to the top of the injector pump. It's a 10mm open end that turns them.
I now have 10 jobs lined up, I need the front end loader for two of those.

Babies started hitting the ground yesterday. First foal of the year is a filly, that's a good thing. Barn name is "Bella" Real name is real long,,

Fresh thermos of coffee now ready, Yep, even at 80 degrees.

Appreciate the support and interest. Will report back or I may have another question but I am pumped and ready.

There is no solenoid for the fuel pump. You can turn the keys to off and take them out, tractor will run until I pull up the kill switch. had a little problem with it once, wire had just become loose on the feed-through, I put the length back right and tightened the screw, no problem in years. Now, if the actual kill mechanism is dead I'm hurtin' but no, remember that it started, sighed, tried to keep running then quit. It tried to start about three times but then would not do that at all. ( I think I am reviewing for my own benefit.) It's a fuel problem, one I caused by not changing the bowl filter every year. The diesel I get delivered is tax free but dirty. And I have always kept that big cannister filter new.

I got air in the lines when I had the fuel cut off, took out the bowl filter and when I put the bowl back on and turned the valve, all that air in the bowl went into the lines. I think I just have to get all that out.

Be back soon!

Thanks,

Rick