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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first post here. I recently inherited my grandfathers Gravely 16-G.

I’m in the process of fixing a few items, and one of them is the forward clutch.

I bought a new clutch with the rivets, which I already installed, but unfortunately the old clutch left a nice groove in the “flywheel”. I ordered a new one with the seals, but I did not order any bearings.

My question is, can I use a gear removal tool to pull the old flywheel off, or do I have to split the trans case to get it out? If I pull it out, is it possible to damage the bearing?

I’m hoping to have this thing going this weekend to do some tilling. It came with the tiller, snow blower, and blade.

Thanks for any suggestions.

Jerry

 

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You'll need to open up the trans. There's a snap ring holding the clutch hub in the bearing. You might be able to get it out by pulling hard enough to pop the snap ring off, but you'll never get it to stay in, and you'll leave the snap ring rattling around among all those gears. Not good.

See www.oldgravelys.net for manuals, including parts lists and exploded diagrams.

The good news is that the forward clutch is on the right side of the trans, so you don't need to pull everything apart. If you set it up on its left side, unbolt the right side, and carefully lift it up, leaving all the shafts "down" in the left side, you'll be able to swap your clutch hub. That's still a bit of a job.

If you're really trying to run it this weekend, your best bet may be to just use your new clutch on the old hub. It will get a bit chewed up, but should be servicable for a while.

Nice looking machine. I'm glad you're putting it back in service. Welcome to MTF!
 

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Welcome Jerry,

Yes replacement is your best choice, and it is a bit of a job.

You can learn a lot about your tractor in my "Improvement" thread, including pictures of taking the trans apart. Here is a link:

Latest 16G improvements





When I needed to replace my PTO clutch, I also replaced the clutch discs and all the seals.

Sheldon
 

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Welcome, Jerry! As jrd said, the transmission cover plate needs to be removed in order to replace the hub. Then it's just remove the snap ring, and slide the clutch hub assy. out. No puller needed.
When I've opened my transmissions, I've installed threaded rods after removing the two bolts at the front, and rear of the cover plate. The rods support the weight of the cover as I pull it away, making it easier to keep any gearsets from coming out with the cover plate (their ends seat into the cover plate). They also made re-installation alignment easier. You can see them in the pic.


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attachment (4).jpg
 

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When I've opened my transmissions, I've installed threaded rods after removing the two bolts at the front, and rear of the cover plate. The rods support the weight of the cover as I pull it away, making it easier to keep any gearsets from coming out with the cover plate (their ends seat into the cover plate). They also made re-installation alignment easier. You can see them in the pic.
+1

Note that what Dave and Sheldon are describing is the procedure for pulling the cover while the the transmission is still upright, even still mounted on the chassis. In Sheldon's pic, the engine is off, in Dave's, the engine is still on.

Either way (horizontal or upright) can be demonstrated to work. I was too chicken to do it upright, as I was afraid all those shafts were going to fall out and not want to fit into the cover when I put it back on :) When you do yours, it's up to you. Just trying to add clarity to the inputs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you everyone for the reply’s. I had looked at the Gravely manuals and couldn’t tell if the trans had to come apart or not.

Thanks for telling me about the snap ring. The clutch was around $60 so I think I’ll run it the way it is right now. I’ll wait till I get more time to really tear into it.

I just put a new carb on it, the air cleaner I ordered is the wrong size, and I did order new axle seals for it as well, hopefully I can get them in without much problem.

According to the manual, the trans takes 10w30, so I was thinking about just putting synthetic back in it, not sure if it would hurt the pto or not.

Also, my grandfather said that he not once ever changed the hydraulic filter on it, so I’ll have to cross ref a new filter for it.

Then I have to figure out how to get the tiller hooked up. I think I got everything, hopefully!

And then I have to fine the correct paint that isn’t $30 a can. I already have the new decals for it.


Thanks!



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Discussion Starter #7
Some of the miscellaneous parts that came with the tractor. Hopefully everything is here for the tiller. The tiller is still sitting on my trailer.





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Looks like you have the correct tiller and snowblower drive parts.

$30 a can? You are shopping at the wrong place. Jack's Small Engines on the web has it for half that, so anyone asking $30 has marked to up above GRAVELY retail.

If you have a die grinder or other tool that might work, you can sand the old clutch plate on the tractor. At this point you can't make it worse.

Sheldon
 

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Nice machine and I'm glad to see you are refurbing it. The only thing I don't see is the J-hook bracket. The later rear drive kits used a J-hook that simply hung on the brake pedal cross-rod under the gear lever panel. You could have an older kit that was suspended by an L-shaped bracket bolted to the underside of the right frame rail. Take a look underneath to see if it is still in place. The gearbox is then simply held in place by a pin through either style of bracket.

Read the IPL and the user guide for the rear tiller / rear PTO kit completely. It is a fairly fragile system carrying a ton of force. Mine blew apart once when the short prop shaft came off the stub shaft in the axle.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Looks like you have the correct tiller and snowblower drive parts.

$30 a can? You are shopping at the wrong place. Jack's Small Engines on the web has it for half that, so anyone asking $30 has marked to up above GRAVELY retail.

If you have a die grinder or other tool that might work, you can sand the old clutch plate on the tractor. At this point you can't make it worse.

Sheldon
That’s an excellent idea. I will take the grinding wheel to it to at the minimum get the lip off of it. I’ll check out Jacks.
Thanks!


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Discussion Starter #11
Nice machine and I'm glad to see you are refurbing it. The only thing I don't see is the J-hook bracket. The later rear drive kits used a J-hook that simply hung on the brake pedal cross-rod under the gear lever panel. You could have an older kit that was suspended by an L-shaped bracket bolted to the underside of the right frame rail. Take a look underneath to see if it is still in place. The gearbox is then simply held in place by a pin through either style of bracket.

Read the IPL and the user guide for the rear tiller / rear PTO kit completely. It is a fairly fragile system carrying a ton of force. Mine blew apart once when the short prop shaft came off the stub shaft in the axle.
Thanks. I did not see the j hook lying anywhere. I’ll take a look underneath the tractor tonight to see how the mid gearbox is going to attach. That was one of my main concerns. The other was that rear lift bar rock shaft is currently not connected to anything, so I’ll have to see what pieces I have to get it connected to the hydraulic lift.

Thanks!


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Thanks. I did not see the j hook lying anywhere. I’ll take a look underneath the tractor tonight to see how the mid gearbox is going to attach. That was one of my main concerns. The other was that rear lift bar rock shaft is currently not connected to anything, so I’ll have to see what pieces I have to get it connected to the hydraulic lift.

Thanks!


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The rod for the rear lift is the red powder-coated, bent in the middle, bar in your last pic. It only goes one way, with the bend used to get around the top of the transaxle. I believe the clevis goes into the rockshaft.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I can’t thank you guys enough. I took the die grinder to the clutch flywheel, and a file, it’s not ideal, but the outer lip is gone now. I got a little carried away in a few spots.

I found a j hook. Not sure if this is the right one or not.

The axles seals should be here tomorrow so at that point I’ll put fresh oil in the trans as a lot has leaked out through the axle.


Thanks,

Jerry





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