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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone:

I'm new to this forum, but really like what I've read so far about the Case family of tractors. A local guy has one for sale right now. See the link:

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/grd/1915684681.html

The questions that I have are:
- Is this a fair price for this tractor? He has replaced the Battery, starter, oil, hydraulic fluid, starter relay, plug wires, plugs, air filter, blades, deck cover.

- The primary task for this tractor will be mowing. From what I've read, these tractors do a great job of this. My yard has some hills in it. Not major hills, but I've heard that these tractors can be tricky on hills.

- What are some of the negatives on this family of tractor?

- What should I look for when I see this unit in person?

I'd welcome all opinions and viewpoints on this. I'm really looking for a quality tractor that will last for many years, and do a good job mowing. Extras aren't really needed now, but I may find a use for them later on.

Thanks !
 

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I'll start off in reverse order of your questions.

Case and Ingersoll tractors are constructed of very high quality materials and parts. There are many of these tractors that are still in use that were made in the late 60's. There are even more that were made in the 70's and 80's. If the deck is in good condition and is set up properly, the cut you will get is as good if not better than any other mower out there.

The engine condition is the most important issue. This tractor originally came with a 16 hp Onan. The Seller is now claiming that it has an 18 hp Onan. If this is true, then the tractor has had a complete engine installed in it at some point. The question then becomes "When?" Many dealers put in the 18 hp engine because there wasn't a big price difference involved.

Assessing an engine isn't easy without test equipment. About all you can do is start it up, listen for noises and look for smoke. The rest of the items are simple to look after but if there is excess play in the steering, bent front axles, missing parts, wrong parts, shoddy repair work and so forth... then those are all clues about value.

If there were any serious negatives, then I wouldn't own this brand. If you buy this one, then spending another $200.00 to add the holding valve would be a good move if you have a property that is hilly. More often than not, the valve isn't necessary but on steeper grades, it just takes away any worries.

As for price... I don't think it's too far out of the park IF the engine is a recent replacement and the tractor has been kept up to snuff. Depending on condition of the blade, it's worth anywhere from $150.00 to $400.00 by itself. I can't read the tag even though I copied it and blew it up but I think that this one is at least a 1980 and could be as new as an early 83.

They never look as good in real life as they appear in photos but this one is worth looking at and haggling over. A fist full of dollars and a trailer in two trumps tire kickers any day of the week.
 

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castoff has you covered on the technicalities, I've owned quite a few tractors over the years, and after stumbling across my Ingersoll, I'm a lifetime member of the fan club, fantastic tractors, you can't go wrong with this family of machines.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
More info

First of all, thanks to all for the information provided so far. This is a great forum :)

More info on the tractor:
- Serial number 14025892, should be a 1982
- Current owner has replaced the following so far:Battery, starter, oil, hydraulic fluid, starter relay, plug wires, plugs, air filter, blades, deck cover

Question: are the holding valves hard to find and hard to install ?

Thanks !!

:thanku:
 

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Re: More info

Question: are the holding valves hard to find and hard to install ?

Thanks !!

:thanku:
They come up on ebay every once in awhile. I've been looking for one for awhile now around $200. If you do buy one make sure it's complete with all of the necessary steel lines.
 

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They are very easy to install if you have some basic mechanical skills. There are 4 ports in this valve -- 2 on either side. The side you see with 2 steel lines attaches to the travel/lift valve located under the floor of the tractor once you remove the two existing steel lines that go to the drive motor.

The other side has one steel line that does a 180 and a short hydraulic fitting. These two items screw directly to the drive motor. That's it. You must make sure that all three steel lines and the fitting are included in any sale you might consider. You also need to get one that has been removed from a 400 series tractor that has the same wheelbase as the one that you buy.
 

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