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A spring and cable broke on our double wide wooden garage door while it was being open. Its was very dangerous. It came flying down. Luckily, my wife was in her car. No one got hurt. I have glass in mine in the second panel from the top. I was surprised it didn't crack or break when the door came flying down. We both had to take two days off work. That thing weighs a ton. The garage people came the next day and had to call additional guys. It took four men to open it so we could get our cars out. They had to order the spring. I ended up replacing both springs and the cable which they had to order. It took two or three weeks before the springs came in. The same four men came back to open the door to make repairs. I've been thinking about replacing mine, knowing that thing can kill someone even while its open. If a cable snaps while open, that thing can cut your head off. The new ones are much lighter and safer.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Don, I've had to replace springs before, they always broke though while in the down position. I just use a jack and wood of various lengths to get it lifted again, jack it up a bit put wood under to prevent coming back down, and repeat until fully open, then block open so it won't fall. I used to be able to dead lift it when just one spring broke, those days are behind me now though! I think this new 16 ft. door only weights about 185 lbs. which is about one fourth the weight of the old one.
 

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185 lbs falling on you by surprise, chances are you be just as dead.

I figure a garage door opener wouldn't lift one of those doors without the spring assist, but I imagine it would prevent one from falling like that. Good reason for an opener to be on there...Just sayin.
 

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185 lbs falling on you by surprise, chances are you be just as dead.

I figure a garage door opener wouldn't lift one of those doors without the spring assist, but I imagine it would prevent one from falling like that. Good reason for an opener to be on there...Just sayin.
Wall mount openers like my LiftMaster 8500 series and similar units from Chamberlain turn the torsion spring axle/jackshaft rather than yanking on the centre of the door. They would probably lift the door without assistance... doing so would put additional stress on the motor so I wouldn't do it long term.
The conventional openers also eat a bunch of ceiling space and clearance under the open door panels that the wall mounted units do not.

They're more money than conventional openers but they're worth it.
 

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The 10x10 foot overhead door I put on my quonset garage was from an old warehouse,made of wood--its a heavy mother,I had to use my engine crane to lift it up after installing it,to hook the springs up to the door..they are the old "stretchy" type coil springs,and there are 2 on each side--one spring is smaller diameter (about the same size as most house overhead doors use!)--and it fits inside of the larger spring.. the outer one is a monster,about 3-1/2" in diameter--both together weighed over 100 lbs,I had to use a pulley & rope attached to the building to pull them up into place..

I ran a length of strong steel stranded wire thru both springs and anchored it to the door framing and the door track,so if one ever broke,it might not become a projectile,or land on someones head,or a vehicle--I have no doubt just the weight of them could kill you easily..and if one ever flew off,without the safety wire,I bet it would go right thru the plywood wall at the opposite end of the garage 40 feet away..

The bottom panel of the door has rotted pretty badly since I installed it in 1992 ,I have patched it up with angle iron,sheet metal and 1/4" plywood,but the panel needs to be replaced--I'll have to make one from scratch..I had saved one panel off the door,it was 12 feet tall,I only needed 10 feet--unfortunately despite it being stored in my shed--it rotted away after being ignored there more than a decade..

The door used to have a opener,that consisted of a 2 HP electric motor with sprockets,jackshafts and chain,and it mounted on the wall--I opted not to try using it because it was originally designed for the torsion type springs,which I hate and almost got killed trying to release the tension on them,30 feet up on a sissors lift..I instead got regular door tracks and springs off another door ..
 

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Discussion Starter #27
Well new opener is supposed to be able to pull door up with only one of the two torsion springs available. The old door opener would not lift the old door if even one torsion spring broke.
 

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As far as a floor fix, does that crack run perpendicular to the door the entire length? Seems you could bust that out and do a hand mix pour reasonably with a mixer.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
From what my neighbors have said it should be interesting to cut the concrete. Apparently the original owner of the property would toss all kinds of things into the area before concrete was poured. Probably a good idea to use one with a wet kit, they really hold down the dust. And I do plan on renting it, can see that I'd ever need it afterwards.
 

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One of my late friends had a garage he added a 10 foot addition onto it--he put everything metal he had in the slab--old bikes,rebar,pipes,car rims,etc,on top of the wire mesh they use...anyone who tries cutting or removing that slab will be in for a lot of work..

His yard also had at least two cars buried nose down ,the previous owner buried them to fill in a "pit" and save on gravel costs...one car was a '63 Ford Fairlane station wagon..the rear bumper was sticking up a few inches last time I was in the yard a few years ago,frost must be heaving it up..anyone who goes to dig a hole or put a foundation in that spot will be in for quite a shock..!
 

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Ellis,

One other thought is to install a drain the length off your door. There are several plastic and metal ones available. Now if Ellis gets to put his signature on it, fabricated stainless steel box with grate!!

CCMoe
 
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