[slingblade]

I just swapped a 95 Eagle Talon with a headgasket issue for a new to me homebuilt trailer.
This thing is solid but old, the guy built a rear ramp/gate for me and am just going through it.
Bearing/race numbers 909501,909801,909602cant find a number for the inner brg. These are deepgroove ball bearings. I cant seem to find any cross reference.

 

[DonF]

That's a name I haven't seen and 50 some years "New Departure". We had some bicycles with New Departure rear wheel hubs, they were at least 20 to 25 years old then. I member taking a couple apart to make one good one.
Your best bet is to measure the the ID, OD, and Width and try to match them that way. My guess is the the Company is no longer in business and hasn't been for years.

 

[89YT12]

http://www.timken.com/zh-cn/products/Documents/BearingInterchangeGuide7536.pdf
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
909501 = B01

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?searchType=global&N=0&Ntt=b01&submit=
:thSick: at the price ^

909801 ?????

909602 = BO2


I would take them to your local trailer shop to get new ones :thThumbsU

 

[slingblade]

Ok, I did manage to find some..nos new departure and some nos seals(felt of course)
I thank you both for your input. My local parts store wanted $65ea for the outers and $125ea for the inners. These are deep groove ball bearings..they don't come cheap. The amusing part(now) is that they the spindles and hubs are from a 1928-1940 chev/gm/olds. I managed to get a complete set of nos brgs and seals for $150 incl shipping..yeah not cheap..but these bearings are at least 50yrs old and although there was some surface wear on the spindles I am sure they will outlast my use.

Another tidbit to ponder is that the 3/8" deck bolts and sides had corroded to less than half of their original thickness. I live in a fairly dry climate and am curious how long it would take to corrode a grade 5 bolt that much?

 

[slingblade]

Here are a few pics..much wire brushing and priming and painting later..almost finished

 

[Kingwood990]

It looks great Shaun.

 

[Tencubed]

You made it shine like a brand new trailer.

A lot of those old bearings of that type can be replaced with more modern ones. I'm kind of surprised you were able to find the originals.

When you say the spindles are showing some wear do you mean the bearings were turning on the spindle? If this is the case it may be wise to take a center punch and lightly "strawberry" the area where the bearings set to make them fit a little tighter. This turning of the bearing on the spindle won't get any better and could cause a failure in pretty short order. It's an easy fix and has worked for me a number of times.

Mike

 

[slingblade]

You made it shine like a brand new trailer.

A lot of those old bearings of that type can be replaced with more modern ones. I'm kind of surprised you were able to find the originals.

When you say the spindles are showing some wear do you mean the bearings were turning on the spindle? If this is the case it may be wise to take a center punch and lightly "strawberry" the area where the bearings set to make them fit a little tighter. This turning of the bearing on the spindle won't get any better and could cause a failure in pretty short order. It's an easy fix and has worked for me a number of times.

Mike

I checked into a modern equivalent Mike, was possible for the outers but not the inners as the spindle has the deep recessed groove for the ball bearing whereas the outer spindle surface is flat. The races arent turning, just some hard chrome pitting on the spindle surface. The funny thing was that the bearing on that side was usable. I decided to put in new as these had to have been ancient, I'll keep it as a spare. So much for a $20 set of cheap trailer bearings. I just finished drilling 60 1/4" holes through the 1/4" frame for the 2x8 deck boards. I used special trailer flooring screws(almost like a bolt).
Here is a pic of the bearings for nostagia's sake(the boxes are antique)

 

[Tencubed]

I like those decking screws. Only complaint I've had about them is they will rust in place quite often. Removal can be troublesome and they often break above the frame or the head rounds off. Solution is to take the board out with an axe and grind them off level to the frame. Easy thing is to never damage a board to where they have to be removed.

Haven't seen a New Process bearing box in many years, used to be common parts for an old Oliver combine my dad had. A walk down memory lane. We nicknamed that old combine "The Jewel" because it was such a headache to keep running.

Mike