Just FYI - On many/most BX SCUTs the aux circuit/fuse above the rear top link is on the same electric circuit that controls the fuel shutoff solenoid. If that fuse blows, the ignition switch alone will not turn off the engine. With a blown fuse, the only way to turn off the engine is to rotate the manual fuel shutoff valve on the side of the fuel injector body.Here is a link with picture https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/kubota-owning-operating/317457d1368383241-12-volt-connector-rear-bx-bx24-exposed-wire-connections-jpg and quote from TBN about rear hookup on BX series.
Hope this helps.
Hi Nouveau - Good to hear from you. Hope all is well. Fully agree on the bass ackwards design for the fuel shutoff solenoid. Maybe Kubota changed things on the newer models. Can't remember where I got the idea for the "emergency shutoff wire" but it was from someone here. Had to use it a couple of times a few years ago when I overloaded the achy circuit.Sounds like kind of a bass ackwards design. I would design it so that it would only open the fuel shutoff solenoid and allow the engine to run if the electric was on, not if the fuse was blown so that the circuit wasn't getting any voltage.
That sounds like good advise. Where did you mount your switches and did you put a relay in the circuit? That's a great looking cab. I wish I had the talent to build something like that. But, it's just not in the cards.I'd suggest just tapping into the +12 terminal on your battery and run the positive electrical source from there. Install a fuse inline and then pickup ground about anyplace on the BX.
FWIW, I installed LED flood lights all around on my home-built cab. Two in front, two on the rear, and one on either side pointing towards the front corners. They are all switched individually and do a decent job.
Before I made the cab, I had LEDs on the underside of the ROPS bar - two pointing front and two to the rear. Used the ROPS bar for electrical ground. Worked ok but got tired of getting cold and wet plowing. So I built the cab several years ago and am very happy with the results. The roof and frame stay on year around. The windshield, doors and other side panels can be put on or taken off in about 15 mins. Has heat too.
Here's a video of my winter setup with wing plow. Shows all the lights and gives some idea of the flood pattern of the LEDs.
The LEDs are from the "Online-LED-Store.com" Nice lights for a reasonable price. They run sales often.
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Mounted the switches inside the cab under the roof to one side. Made up a little overhead console to accommodate all the switches and fuses. Didn't install a relay. Just a main fuse and then used a separate fuse for the windshield wiper motor. Have the following switches on the console:That sounds like good advise. Where did you mount your switches and did you put a relay in the circuit? That's a great looking cab. I wish I had the talent to build something like that. But, it's just not in the cards.
RDMMounted the switches inside the cab under the roof to one side. Made up a little overhead console to accommodate all the switches and fuses. Didn't install a relay. Just a main fuse and then used a separate fuse for the windshield wiper motor. Have the following switches on the console:
Main/Master on/off toggle
Front Flood Lights "
Side Flood Lights "
Rear Flood Lights "
Windshield Wiper on/off toggle
Windshield Wiper - Momentary switch - bump it one time and the wiper cycle one time
Roof mounted yellow strobe - toggle
The flashing LEDs mounted under the overhang of the roof at the front and back are powered/controlled separately.
As for the cab, don't cut yourself short. The Curtis Cabs for the BX are are really nice. But out of a matter of principle I couldn't justify the $4000+ expense. So I built my own. Looked at several other home built cabs online and learned from what others had done. What is not obvious is the cab is tapered from front to back 3 degrees on each side. So the cab is about 3" narrower at the rear compared to the front bulkhead. The front width was determined by the deck pan where you put your feet. The width of the rear was determined by the inside width/clearance of the ROPS bar. It's also not obvious, but the ROPS bar can be folded down with the roof on - a must to get the BX inside my shop which only has a normal height garage door. Have an extra tall garage door on the garage where I normally park the BX. To get the dimensions right to provide maximum inside space with enough clearance to fold the ROPS bar took a fair bit of measuring and some trial and error with templates, but anyone could do it.
The roof is 3/8" exterior grade plywood bent over an internal spar arrangement (the spars are angled 3 degrees on each end to support the taper). All the wood is covered in 2 coats of spar urethane. The roof is covered on top in 1/16" aluminum diamond plate for water proofing and durability from tree branches etc. The main frame that attaches to the BX is all aluminum angle. I've had it on about 5 years now w/o any problems. Still plenty of room to rotate the seat around when using the backhoe.
The only time the roof has been off since I installed it was when I had to remove the ROPS bar, deck pan and fenders to gain access to the fuel tank - had to replace the fuel level sending unit. That was a pain in the neck, but everything went back together ok - and it worked.
So again, don't cut yourself short on a home-built cab. Just takes some patience and a little fore-thought. Hope this helps.
You're very welcome. If you do mount the lights on the ROPS bar, give thought to running the +12 inside the bar. It makes for a much cleaner installation. I did the same on the ROPS bar on my BX23, pre-cab. Drilled a hole on the inside base of the ROPS bar and fished the +12 wire up through the inside of the bar. Drilled a small hole near the lights on the top of the bar too. Used rubber grommets at the holes to protect against sharp edges creating a short on the +12 wire. The ROPS bar itself provides plenty of ground for the -12 side of the DC circuit.RDM
That's great information. I'll start with the lights, probably next week. Being retired, I have the time to tinker with and figure out the cab. If I choose to move forward with it, I will certainly share my experiences with you and the Forum. Thanks for your input.
It’s not backwards to me. I want the machine to run no matter what. A diesel doesn’t need any electrical power. In the old days, not that old really, 70’s, they didn’t have a electric cutoff valve. When you turned the key off they kept running. You always manually shut them down on the fuel pump.Sounds like kind of a bass ackwards design. I would design it so that it would only open the fuel shutoff solenoid and allow the engine to run if the electric was on, not if the fuse was blown so that the circuit wasn't getting any voltage.