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Discussion Starter #1
Hey I'm Stephen, I'll introduce myself prior to the question asking... I'm an E6 19D in the United States Army I'm stationed at a small base outside Atlanta Georgia for the time being. I grew up in Ohio as a typical farm kid, basically rolling with Bolens and Case Tractors. I just recently picked up a 1253 I believe -02 I'm not fully for sure on that yet. I've ran into a few "past owner" problems... Here we go on the questions...

1. He has a toggle switch wired up due to the Ignition Switch going out...
I picked up a basic 3 pos. switch at Auto Zone and it seems to not be working.
2. The steering mechanics are held together by worm clamps and 14g wire.

Thats basically it on that aspect. Everything else is in great shape. My main question is on the OEM Ingition Switch I'm reading the labels of "B S I A R" I assume B=Battery, S=Starter, I=Ignition, R=Relay?, A=Accessory? If anyone could help me out with this I'd appreciate it!
Thank you,
Stephen
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Wow you guys are really quick, thanks for the help! I'm sure I'll have a few long nights with this ole' girl in the near future!
 

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I believe you will only use the B,S and I,you'll have to find the hot wire coming up from the regulator,I think it should be yellow if it hasn't been changed.Hook that up to the b terminal,then if you turn the switch to on and find out which pole is constant hot,that will be your ignition wire.Turn the key to start and see which terminal is hot,that's where you'll hook the wire that goes to the start terminal on the starter/generator.As far as the steering goes,I had a 1050 that the steering worked good one way but wanted to slip if you turned it past center the opposite way,I found that it worked ok if I just bumped the rack deeper into the pinion gear,a thin washer will work to hold it in so it won't slip.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
So this is what I'm coming up with! Am I doing something wrong? Is there a relay or regulator hidden near the starter? What could that toggle switch be running to?

 

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If that's what you have,it looks like someone has done some rewiring.I don't know why you would need the toggle switch at all.First things first,is your ignition a battery ignition or a magneto ignition?A battery ignition uses an automotive style ignition coil,a magneto ignition has an ignition coil behind the flywheel,your sparkplug wire would come from behind the coil.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I'm assuming a magneto ignition due to the hidden wires floating behind the flywheel, He used the toggle switch because the ignition switch went out and he was jumping it off the starter post.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes it does come from behind the flywheel, as far as the ignition goes, i'm not fully sure it's held on with a zip tie... HEADACHE!

Everything is so "redone" on this tractor it's turning into a huge pain in the ***... The guy is a mechanic for Delta, and honestly with his, "skills" i'm scared to fly with them! Speaker wire pushing the headlights, 3 - 5 splices per wire.
 

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Is there any chance that you could post a picture of the tractor,mainly the engine,preferably the carb side of the engine?I'd like to see what your working with so I don't screw you up any more.Normally there is only one wire coming out of a magneto ignition that goes to the points,I don't understand why you have 3.That wire gets grounded to shut the engine off,that's probably why he used the toggle switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
All this is out of my league as a small engine mechanic... I'm really not familiar with this at all.




 

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It's not really a matter of being out of your league as a mechanic,it's just a matter of figuring out what your working with to get the correct advise,you've got to figure that these tractors are 30 or 40 yrs old and previous owners can come up with some pretty novel fixes and repower options.What I'm looking at in your pictures,I don't think that's a 1050 or else it's had a newer engine set in your older frame.That engine looks like it has an early electronic ignition on it,a TRA10D Wisconsin engine on a 1050 would have had points and condensor.I don't think it was converted to electronc ignition,I don't see the housing for the points and condensor on your block.I'm thinking it's a little newer than you were told,possibly a 1053 or something like that,I'm not sure when they started using electronic ignition but it was likely in the early 1970s.The fact that that ignition module is hanging there or like you say is zip tied on,kind of looks like someone changed something,I'm sure that module should be bolted down somewhere so it's grounded,that would be a place to start.Is there a voltage regulator somewhere else on the tractor,possibly under the battery box?I'm thinking that module could also be the voltage regulator,that's why you have so many wires coming out of it.Did you check that fuse to see if it's blown?
 

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I have a G14 with the HH140 (OH140). Your first picture is the rectifier/voltage regulator, you can ignore it for a bit.

Second pic is the magneto, and it should have 1 wire going to it. The wire connected to the magneto will be grounded to shut-off the engine, normally would go to the M on the ign switch. This wire is routed with that single connector going to the engine with the Black/Orange/Red wires. These are the magneto shutoff (Black) and charge wires (orange/red). You apparantly have an aftermarket ign switch. Check to see if that toggle goes to the magneto black wire.

Stock, you would have headlights on ACC, starter on S, battery on B (with a fuse on the battery side), and magneto on M. For your new ign switch, check the I and R points and see which one is grounded with the key off, then put the magneto wire there. I dont't think the wire should have 12V on it with the ign on, but I guess I am not sure since my wiring was mangled when I got it, I had no spark, so I converted to HEI/auto coil.

OK, I looked at your drawing a little closer - the thing you have labeled ignition is the rectifier. The toggle switch is grounded on 1 side, then on the other side meets up with 2 wires from the rectifier and the 3 head over to the engine shroud. Near the engine there should be a removable connector containing these 3 wires, the black goes to the magneto, the other 2 go to the stator for charging. The toggle is definitely the magneto cut-off now. You can check the stator/rectifier using the procedures in this manual - http://www.mytractorforum.com/images/reference/tecumseh8to18castiron.pdf .
 

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Can't edit my last post for some reason, so adding something I forgot.

You should also have the white wire (center terminal) from the rectifier hooked to the ACC on the starter. That will then feed the charge current to the battery after you are running.

The stator is all behind the flywheel.

Has it ever run? And just won't start now with the new ign switch?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Can't edit my last post for some reason, so adding something I forgot.

You should also have the white wire (center terminal) from the rectifier hooked to the ACC on the starter. That will then feed the charge current to the battery after you are running.

The stator is all behind the flywheel.

Has it ever run? And just won't start now with the new ign switch?
yeah it ran as i jumped it off the starter post. When i went to install a new ign. switch i lost all spark and everything now. I have a buddy coming over with an electrical MOS to help me out tonight... This is all above my head, electricity is something i use on a daily basis just don't understand how it works haha...
 

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You can pull the plug, ground it, pull the black wire off the magneto, and crank away. If you have spark, then put the black wire back on the magneto. If you then have no spark, flip the toggle. If you then have spark, the toggle is working as wired, and your motor should start.

Ideally, then you want to put the wire on the toggle onto your ign. switch and ditch the toggle. Do you have the schematic from the ign switch? Put the black wire (toggle, the magneto lead M) on a pin that goes to ground when the ign. switch is off.

But, I suspect you have flipped the toggle while cranking and it didn't fire off. The magneto is self contained and creates its own spark voltage and triggers off the 2 pins on the flywheel. The manual I posted the link for may be helpful to troubleshoot the lack of spark.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So I've figured it out... The Coil is bad on the machine. I'm pulling 486o from the power wire while cranking, 0o from the coil when jumped to the battery, or hooked directly to the power wire. I've gapped the coil to the fly wheel to spec and nothing... That in turn tells me there is nothing happening through the coil...

I've searched a few sites for a new coil and really have found nothing except for a $150.00 coil from outdoor distributors... Does anyone have a Tec HH120 engine lying around with a good coil?
Stephen-
 
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