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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I scored a 1979 Ford 145 today. It has deck, tiller and snowblower. Some carb problems I guess, haven't unloaded it yet. He siad the guy had taken the carb apart 2-3 times and got fed up. It will idle but dies as soon as you crack the throttle. 14.5 horse Kohler. New battery and all new deck bearings, plus the owner's manuals. $200, delivered. Pictures coming tomorrow.
 

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First thing I would check would be the condensor. See if the connections are all clean!
 

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Weak spark can cause that ,I second the condensor check,and it might be the coil,if the carb checks out OK..sometimes a carb will have tiny holes beside the throttle butterfly in the venturi that are nearly invisible that get plugged,those are what deliver an extra dose of gas when the throttle is opened to avoid a bog..

One simply way to see if it is weak spark is to close the gap up on the spark plug down to .010 or .015..see if it'll accelerate better then..I have a H60 Tecumseh that I put three "known good" carbs on,and all three would bog or stall the engine every time you tried to rev it up past idle...then I decided to try closing up the plug gap,and it cured the bogging and stalling,but it runs kind of ragged that way,so I'm looking for a decent coil and condensor to swap onto it..or I might put a "point eliminator" chip on it instead..
 

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Weak spark can cause that ,I second the condensor check,and it might be the coil,if the carb checks out OK..sometimes a carb will have tiny holes beside the throttle butterfly in the venturi that are nearly invisible that get plugged,those are what deliver an extra dose of gas when the throttle is opened to avoid a bog..

One simply way to see if it is weak spark is to close the gap up on the spark plug down to .010 or .015..see if it'll accelerate better then..I have a H60 Tecumseh that I put three "known good" carbs on,and all three would bog or stall the engine every time you tried to rev it up past idle...then I decided to try closing up the plug gap,and it cured the bogging and stalling,but it runs kind of ragged that way,so I'm looking for a decent coil and condensor to swap onto it..or I might put a "point eliminator" chip on it instead..


i had one running like this as well It turned out to be the Flykey...But i have also seen a cracked wire or crappy connection ..that gos to the coil and condenser do the same thing
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update:
I took it to the carwash and cleaned it up. When I got into it, it had no spark. A test light at the coil showed the points to be opening and closing. So I robbed a coil off an old Cub Cadet and it then had good spark. Then I sprayed out the carb passages with carb-clean and blew them out with air. I also ran a tip cleaner through the orifices in the high speed jet tube. Now it runs fine, pretty much. The throttle shaft bushings are really slopped out and it's difficult to get it to idle properly. My friend who dropped it off said it started and idled when they loaded it so I'm thinking I might have got the coil wet and it was tracking. I was working in the bright sunlight so maybe I didn't see it.
Anyway, I took it out and mowed a bit and it ran fine. The mower deck is an ungainly contraption. It has a bolted on deflector which makes for an appendage that sticks out at least a foot. Tomorrow the deck comes off, probably for good (as long as I own it anyway) and the tiller goes on.
 
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