New '97 345 for a steal. . . or a money pit?

6871 Views 73 Replies 15 Participants Last post by CCMoe, Dec 26, 2018

brackishtractor

Discussion Starter · Dec 15, 2018

I picked up a '97 345 today with 883 miles on the odometer from a guy who repairs mowers. He had several in his back yard. For various social and health reasons he decided not tackle this one.

It has no hood and no battery, but it started and drove fine using his portable battery jumper. Hydraulics seemed to work fine.

It very quickly starts smoking from an oil leak somewhere in the left front area on starting.

I am hoping to make it a dependable mower for my dad, who has been using an L series at his hilly place in western VA, and the tranny is on its last leg.

I don't see a drain tube under the fuel pump, so I will need to replace the napalm one. It's got a rag for a dip stick. The deck doesn't look too bad.

I doubt the plastic cam gear has been replaced, and I know I'm getting into the hours where failure becomes a real possibility, or it could go another 500 hrs. I'd prefer not to attempt that repair, but depending what I find elsewhere, I guess I may find myself halfway there anyway. or decide to pass it on to someone with more time and gumption.

For the 300$ price of admission, I figured it was worth a gamble. I hope to suck every bit of knowledge and advice out of everyone here!

I need to get a battery first, but I'm hoping for some tips on where to go from there. Anyone have a copy of the shop manual?

Here are some pics. Anything jump out at ya?

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CCMoe

· #2 · Dec 15, 2018

I would say it was worth the price of admission.

Green plastic is expen$ive though, you could part it out and triple your admission price.

CCMoe

1969140

· #3 · Dec 15, 2018

The oil leak might well be from the valve cover on that side. There is a special rubber gasket that is supposed to be compressed to seal. Might just be the gasket, but the plastic covers have a tendency to warp as well.

The plastic hood is expensive, and there isn't much on the used market as they tend to break. If you don't mind driving without the hood, it might be a good cheap mower. The 345s are very good mower tractors.

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brackishtractor

Discussion Starter · #4 · Dec 15, 2018

Is there any reason other than cosmetics to replace the hood?

It sits on the trailer until I can get a battery on it, but the smoking was coming from the area of the valve cover lower screw that is hidden behind a metal plate. It's hard to see in there,, but the oil residue seems to be originating from there. That would be a quick fix!

I saw this thread about the replacement valve covers https://www.mytractorforum.com/12-j...e-here-upgraded-valve-covers-425-345-a-3.html, and I may go that way, especially if it's more than just a gasket problem, ie warped plastic cover.

Can and will a JD rep look up the maintenance record for any yahoo off the street, or on the phone?

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rayjay

· #5 · Dec 15, 2018

The cheapest $22 batt from Wally will start that motor just fine.

Just replace the oring / gasket in the valve covers.

Hood only needed for ego. Since I only have half an ego I only have the top half of the hood. Do a search here on Hot Rod Hood.

What L100 does your dad have ? The motor off it might be a good bet for this one when the cam gear dies. You would need a sleeve for the traction drive pulley and a new PTO clutch as the L100 has a 1" crank stub and the 345 has 1 1/8".

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brackishtractor

Discussion Starter · #6 · Dec 15, 2018

thanks rayjay. I saw your hood and am seriously considering.

I don't remember the model, except it is actually an Lsomething, I think LT.

Regarding the battery, model 51 with 500 cold ccrank amps are running in the 150-200$ range online. Would the cheapo walmart version be adequate for the duration, or is it just a stopgap till I decide whetherits all worth it?

I used jumper cables to start it a few min ago after removing the piece of sheet metal that was blocking my view, and there is quite a bit of oil over everything in the left front corner, including the botton of the valve cover. It starts to smoke pretty quickly and I couldn't see any active flow.

I'm guessing I need to get it all cleaned up to see where its coming from.

Simple green or Dawn and a garden hose?

We have a Christmas party tonight, so I'm through playing for the day.

Thanks

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bontai Joe

· #7 · Dec 16, 2018

I just replaced the battery in my wife's car and suffered a SEVERE case of sticker shock. It's been a while since I bought a battery, what happened? I think the last one I bought was around $65, my wife's car battery was $125 and it was the 3rd tier cheapo one from Advanced Auto parts. Did lead suddenly become a precious metal?

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rayjay

· #8 · Dec 16, 2018

IMO the small Wally batt is a permanent solution. I have had several LX200, GT225/235/245, and GX345 and have always used the same batt that the L100 Series use. In my experience all the good battery is good for is spilling acid all over the battery box and the steering valve.

rayjay

· #9 · Dec 16, 2018

BTW, once you operate one of these units you will never want to go back to a lesser machine. I get off my GX and onto my GT or LX and my first thought is that my front tires are flat !!

CCMoe

· #10 · Dec 16, 2018

bontai Joe said:
I just replaced the battery in my wife's car and suffered a SEVERE case of sticker shock. It's been a while since I bought a battery, what happened? I think the last one I bought was around $65, my wife's car battery was $125 and it was the 3rd tier cheapo one from Advanced Auto parts. Did lead suddenly become a precious metal?

I replaced the battery in my daughters BMW 328xi, just short of $300.00 and then it needed reprogrammed, a little over $400.00 but it does what it is required of it.

PO went the cheap route and it would not charge a regular battery. I had to put it on the charger several times and with winter coming, I wasn't about to send my 16 year old daughter last year out with a suspect battery.

AS for JD rep looking up history, they can do it, will they do it?

I bought a 455 with missing serial number tag, I have a friend that is the service manager at local JD dealer, I gave him the serial number off the Yanmar diesel, he checked it for warranty work to see if the serial number would come up, apparently it had not been in for warranty work, 877 hours. Which is good, I guess. He requested some info from Deere, last time I talked to him he had not heard back from them.

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kbit

· #11 · Dec 16, 2018

rayjay said:
IMO the small Wally batt is a permanent solution. I have had several LX200, GT225/235/245, and GX345 and have always used the same batt that the L100 Series use. In my experience all the good battery is good for is spilling acid all over the battery box and the steering valve.

You got that right !
The 'good' battery is not really that good.

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JD-285

· #12 · Dec 16, 2018 (Edited)

For the car post batteries on LXs and GTs I use Wally VP26.

You could put $700ish in this mower and still not be a money pit if you are planning on keeping it Imo for what condition mower is in.

Been There Twice

· #13 · Dec 16, 2018

From the picture that shows the 345 circuit board that has the ignition switch attached, it appears the circuit board is the original factory installed one. And that is unusual rare for a 345 to have a original one with 700 hours. Here is a location that has replacement. https://www.ebay.com/itm/JOHN-DEERE...5-335-345-355D-/191344098377?oid=251141548457

I would buy it for$300.00. The valve covers gasket are a cheap fix. However, the most cause for the oil leak is the plastic valve covers get warped from heat. There are metal ones on ebay to cure that also. Buy a few cans of the infamous Green paint and get it back to new condition. PTO's clutch is another matter that will need to be fix when they go bad.

I would suggest that you remove the rear deck platform, remove the gas tank and clean it out and replace all the fuel hoses, including that rubber grommet in the tank.

Mach-1

· #14 · Dec 16, 2018

345's are great machines. You didn't get hurt on that at all. We have a GX345 and it is well worth it. I'd put a batt in it and see if you could find a used hood. Lucky our hood was in perfect shape. Because these hoods are so fragile, I took the latch off so the hood just opens without any effort. Good luck on your new project!

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brackishtractor

Discussion Starter · #15 · Dec 16, 2018

none of the walmarts within 100mi have the value power 26 in stock. any reason not to get the vp24 or vp35?

and they all cost 50$. Is there a 22$ version?

JD-285

· #16 · Dec 16, 2018

I tried one it it was a good fit. They always have them in stock around me so never tried a different group.

Measure your battery box, cables length and side. Find one of these groups that works. That’s how I picked the VP26.

brackishtractor

Discussion Starter · #17 · Dec 16, 2018

there were plenty of vp26s at walmart, 50$, along with some gunk engine cleaner. Time to go get it hooked up.

ordered gaskets for the valve head covers. I plan to clean it up with the gunk now, and expect the gaskets by next weekend.

ANy tips on using gunk?

JD-285

· #18 · Dec 16, 2018

I use Simple Green on everything. Some use the purple stuff.

Don’t wet down anything just spray the SG on it (it is not a strong cleaner). Takes a little bit more elbow grease with rag. Then I wash it off. Sometimes you have to let everything dry after one application and repeat. Doesn’t take much to delute it.

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brackishtractor

Discussion Starter · #19 · Dec 16, 2018

I had to unbolt the radiator to get the battery in, and it fit, but it is just barely not brushing up against the engine, too wide front-to-back. Not a permanent solution.

But, I cleaned up the front of the engine with some gunk and the garden hose, then fired it up. I can see no active leaks, but the little bit of smoking I am still getting is from around the OHV cover, even a little around the other one.

It is really zippy and mows well.

I have a compression tester on order and a growing list of parts to order if it looks good.

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brackishtractor

Discussion Starter · #20 · Dec 17, 2018

There is quite a layer of old oil/debris in the very back of the left air exit duct in the front top of the engine, the right (from this angle, the front) of the big rectangular hole on the front.

where is this fan drawing air from? is there anything upstream of the fan that I need to worry about being coated in thick oily crud? Do I need to crack that duct housing and clean the fan itself?

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