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new 725

5020 Views 15 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Farmer725
Hey Folk's,
I do more lurkin' here than posting. Have learned a ton here. I have had a good many suburbans pass through my hands. Got my first db 725 yesterday and I have a few questions.
The tractor I have is 91760629 ser#17393. What year is it. Did it have belt guards on it? How much oil does the rear axel hold ? The belts are rotted off,anyone know what belts I need. How does the reverse work?

The engine #'s are 19-70052-663895. I need a carb kit and points and condenser, where is the best place to obtain these parts.

Many thanks,

Henry t
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Thanks Tahoe!
Congrats Henry t on your new 725.
629's are 1963

Rear holds 2 quarts 90w
Belts are:
Motor to speedchanger= 5/8 by 29
Speedchanger to trans = 5/8 by 70
Reverse =1/2 by 27
Motor belt goes from the inner motor pulley (3") to outer speedchanger pulley.

Carb kits are readily available from small engine shop, ebay, etc.
Carb kit #s:
Briggs 394693
Stens = 520-049
If you're not familiar with the flo-jets you must remember to remove the emulsion tube with a tight fitting screwdriver before removing the bowl or you can destroy it.

The belt guard is integral to the function of the clutch lever since the clutch lever lock is mounted to the belt guard. The clutch lever lock is very important because it holds the clutch lever in neutral. Without the belt guard and clutch lever lock it will shift itself to forward all the time.
Good Luck and have fun!!
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Stole these drawings from the DB Suburban yahoo group. This is not as elaborate as came on the 725's but it'll work fine. The clutch lever lock is different because your clutch lever is round, not flat bar like the drawing is for. This type of guard was used on the earlier tractors.
So the only modification you need is to change the configuration of the clutch lever lock. Check Stripmine's site for a manual. It shows what the clutch lever lock for your 725 should look like.

Link here:


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I made 16 covers and sent most of em out to ppl who needed them. I might have maybe 2 left but they are the least good of the bunch. Easy to make if you have access to a press brake or a pan brake.


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Hey again,
Found an easy way to unstick a db clutch. I held the inside pully with a belt and had my buddy use a 3/4 drive impact with a 2 5/8 socket on the big hex on the outer half of the clutch. Worked good.

Mr. Bert, My realease bearing only had 10 balls in it. there is room for at least 2 more balls. Should I add some or reaseamble it with the 10 balls. Do you grease the balls or leave them dry? The clutch thread you did was a big help.
Things are moving along pretty good.
Henry t
Glad you got it unstuck. There should be 11 balls in there. If you put in 12 it won't work even though they will fit. Grease them up good. It makes it easier to reassemble if you tip the tractor on it's side. The balls can wear down over time too. They should measure 1/4. They're cheap enough so might as well put in all new ones. Sounds like you are on your way!

pm me your address if you want a belt guard. They are $15 plus shipping. The shipping might be 25$ because I'm lazy and just take them to UPS store. And they are not drilled. You have to drill all the holes yourself.
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