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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey Folk's,
I do more lurkin' here than posting. Have learned a ton here. I have had a good many suburbans pass through my hands. Got my first db 725 yesterday and I have a few questions.
The tractor I have is 91760629 ser#17393. What year is it. Did it have belt guards on it? How much oil does the rear axel hold ? The belts are rotted off,anyone know what belts I need. How does the reverse work?

The engine #'s are 19-70052-663895. I need a carb kit and points and condenser, where is the best place to obtain these parts.

Many thanks,

Henry t
 

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Maybe our expert 'Vert" will be by to help you out with model numbers.
It is a '62-64. only 3 yrs for the 725.
I have a '64 myself.
They do have a belt cover, it's a long metal 1 pc cover.
Not sure of belts. I haven't had to buy any yet. The reverse is a disc that engages main pulley and reverses tranny. Can't help ya on that either, mine is missing the assembly.

You can read this thread, it's an earlier one,. but many of the things are the same.
Also do a member search or 69L64vert, he has posted much information on these old tractors

http://www.mytractorforum.com/showthread.php?t=220846&highlight=longest
 

· That there's worth fixin'
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Thanks Tahoe!
Congrats Henry t on your new 725.
629's are 1963

Rear holds 2 quarts 90w
Belts are:
Motor to speedchanger= 5/8 by 29
Speedchanger to trans = 5/8 by 70
Reverse =1/2 by 27
Motor belt goes from the inner motor pulley (3") to outer speedchanger pulley.


Carb kits are readily available from small engine shop, ebay, etc.
Carb kit #s:
Briggs 394693
Stens = 520-049
If you're not familiar with the flo-jets you must remember to remove the emulsion tube with a tight fitting screwdriver before removing the bowl or you can destroy it.

The belt guard is integral to the function of the clutch lever since the clutch lever lock is mounted to the belt guard. The clutch lever lock is very important because it holds the clutch lever in neutral. Without the belt guard and clutch lever lock it will shift itself to forward all the time.
Good Luck and have fun!!
 

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Congrats on the 725 I Love Mine Use It Every Day be careful those carbs are Pretty tricky But Once You get it apart the a piece of cake Good Luck Ive Had my tractor apart Like 3 Times So I Know A little about them if you have any questions you can ask Me, enjoy the tractor.
 

· That there's worth fixin'
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Stole these drawings from the DB Suburban yahoo group. This is not as elaborate as came on the 725's but it'll work fine. The clutch lever lock is different because your clutch lever is round, not flat bar like the drawing is for. This type of guard was used on the earlier tractors.
So the only modification you need is to change the configuration of the clutch lever lock. Check Stripmine's site for a manual. It shows what the clutch lever lock for your 725 should look like.

Link here:

http://www.stripmine.org/sears/manuals/91760633.pdf
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
thank you all for your help and interest.
I was off work today so I worked on it some. Took the mower deck off,it's in pretty sad shape. took the engine off. the exhaust valve was stuck shut. took the head off,lubed the valve stems and worked with them until I got them freed up. Cleaned the points and I have fire to the plug. The old motor has some end to end play in the crank,is that normal?
Next I think I'll take the clutch apart as it is froze.
This tractor is ruff but so far I haven't found anything beyond repair.

Thank's again for all the help.

Regards, Henry t
 

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Those 725's are a nice looking tractor. I would love to have one but never seen one around here.
 

· Cranky Motorsports
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I have a 1963 DB 725 as well, original motor, everything on mine works, but the motor is tired- smokes a lot, hard to start, ignition is a little weak, but it is my (second) favorite tractor. Rick (69l46vert) has my favorite 1962 David Bradley Special 5hp. it's beautiful!

here is a link to my thread My DB 725

here is an antiqued image of my 725
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hey again,
Found an easy way to unstick a db clutch. I held the inside pully with a belt and had my buddy use a 3/4 drive impact with a 2 5/8 socket on the big hex on the outer half of the clutch. Worked good.

Mr. Bert, My realease bearing only had 10 balls in it. there is room for at least 2 more balls. Should I add some or reaseamble it with the 10 balls. Do you grease the balls or leave them dry? The clutch thread you did was a big help.
Things are moving along pretty good.
Thanks,
Henry t
 

· That there's worth fixin'
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Hey again,
Found an easy way to unstick a db clutch. I held the inside pully with a belt and had my buddy use a 3/4 drive impact with a 2 5/8 socket on the big hex on the outer half of the clutch. Worked good.

Mr. Bert, My realease bearing only had 10 balls in it. there is room for at least 2 more balls. Should I add some or reaseamble it with the 10 balls. Do you grease the balls or leave them dry? The clutch thread you did was a big help.
Things are moving along pretty good.
Thanks,
Henry t
Glad you got it unstuck. There should be 11 balls in there. If you put in 12 it won't work even though they will fit. Grease them up good. It makes it easier to reassemble if you tip the tractor on it's side. The balls can wear down over time too. They should measure 1/4. They're cheap enough so might as well put in all new ones. Sounds like you are on your way!

pm me your address if you want a belt guard. They are $15 plus shipping. The shipping might be 25$ because I'm lazy and just take them to UPS store. And they are not drilled. You have to drill all the holes yourself.
 

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pm me your address if you want a belt guard. They are $15 plus shipping. The shipping might be 25$ because I'm lazy and just take them to UPS store. And they are not drilled. You have to drill all the holes yourself.
[/QUOTE] hey If you still have one I’d love to get one off of you sir I know it’s years later but if you got them
 
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