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I just purchased a 3240 that will be dedicated to pushing snow. I am wanting to add a hydraulic angling cylinder to it. I'm learning that adding a complete third valve and line setup is very expensive. Is there any reason I couldn't simply re-route the exhausting lines from the deck lift to the angling cylinder?

Does anyone have an angling cylinder they would sell?

3240 Pushing Snow
 

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You can with a couple buts. If using factory lines you'll have to flip the valve around to put the ports facing thru the frame unless they already are. Most deck lift lines are facing inward.

Do you plan on mowing with it as well?

I had lines made by a local hydraulic guru at an autoparts shop using the proprietary ends from Cub lift valve hoses bought off ebay.

You can find the spool valves on ebay occasionally and rebuild them with a simple o-ring change. If you do try to find one with everything on it. Piecing one together is expensive.

The angle cylinders are hard to find and expensive. I discussed this with @WrongDoug awhile back and sent some links to one I thought would work in place of it. Let me check on that for ya.
 
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Since the tractor will be a dedicated snow pusher, dismount the deck lift cylinder and move it to the plow mount for blade angling. New hoses will be required, either as extensions from the existing lines or all the way to the valve body.

It's a shame that the plow harnesses for the more modern tractors are mounted to the front of the frame. Old school engineering had them mount all the way back to the rear axle or the hitch plate which allows the deck lift to also be used to raise and lower the front blade or snow blower without modification.
 

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Ejl in Pa.
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Since the tractor will be a dedicated snow pusher, dismount the deck lift cylinder and move it to the plow mount for blade angling. New hoses will be required, either as extensions from the existing lines or all the way to the valve body.

It's a shame that the plow harnesses for the more modern tractors are mounted to the front of the frame. Old school engineering had them mount all the way back to the rear axle or the hitch plate which allows the deck lift to also be used to raise and lower the front blade or snow blower without modification.
I had looked into using a deck lift cylinder for snowblade angling awhile ago and decided it wasn't feasible. Have you done this and would you like to share some insight as to the modifications needed. If I recall correctly the deck lift cylinder stroke isn't even close to what is needed for snowblade angling.
 

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As Ejl said (while I was still typing :D) using the deck lift cylinder as an angling cylinder is not feasable as it has the 4" long slotted float end welded on it plus it only has a 2.25" stroke where the factory cylinder has a 5" stroke per what @Joelk told me awhile back.

I thought about this last night and I came up with the cheapest solution while using the factory deck lift valve in the factory position.

The deck lift cylinder hoses have male -6 ORB fittings on them. Buy adapter fittings from -6 ORB female to 1/4" NPT female. Then off the shelf 1/4" NPT hoses can be used and hooked to the factory hoses eliminating the need to mess with the proprietary Cub ends in the spool valve. Basically hooking the deck lift hoses to 1/4" NPT ended hoses.

Run those forward to an off the shelf 1.5" bore x 4" stroke cylinder with a retracted length of 10" or less.. The ends are where you need to check to see what will fit. My plow is buried in my wellhouse. I'm hoping @Joelk will chime in here as he has set up plenty of these and has more CC 3000 tractors than anyone else on here.

I'm thinking something like this changing the front clevis to something different:


Or this one if the ends are oriented correctly and usable:

 

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Discussion Starter #7
As Ejl said (while I was still typing :D) using the deck lift cylinder as an angling cylinder is not feasable as it has the 4" long slotted float end welded on it plus it only has a 2.25" stroke where the factory cylinder has a 5" stroke per what @Joelk told me awhile back.

I thought about this last night and I came up with the cheapest solution while using the factory deck lift valve in the factory position.

The deck lift cylinder hoses have male -6 ORB fittings on them. Buy adapter fittings from -6 ORB female to 1/4" NPT female. Then off the shelf 1/4" NPT hoses can be used and hooked to the factory hoses eliminating the need to mess with the proprietary Cub ends in the spool valve. Basically hooking the deck lift hoses to 1/4" NPT ended hoses.

Run those forward to an off the shelf 1.5" bore x 4" stroke cylinder with a retracted length of 10" or less.. The ends are where you need to check to see what will fit. My plow is buried in my wellhouse. I'm hoping @Joelk will chime in here as he has set up plenty of these and has more CC 3000 tractors than anyone else on here.

I'm thinking something like this changing the front clevis to something different:


Or this one if the ends are oriented correctly and usable:

This is exactly what I had in mind, but hoping I could find an original cylinder. Those options look much less expensive though and not that hard to adapt.

Most frustrating is that I just missed a complete 3000 series tractor complete with plow and the hydraulic angling kit. It had a busted rear axle and he was only asking $600! :(
 

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Ejl in Pa.
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This is exactly what I had in mind, but hoping I could find an original cylinder. Those options look much less expensive though and not that hard to adapt.

Most frustrating is that I just missed a complete 3000 series tractor complete with plow and the hydraulic angling kit. It had a busted rear axle and he was only asking $600! :(
If the busted rear differential was cast iron that would not be an inexpensive repair. Used cast iron rears don't come up very often and new half cases are over $400 from CC. Also from what I have seen 80% of used front hitches don't have power angle.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I only wanted the hydraulic angling kit, then re-sell or part it out. Doesn't matter now though. I missed it.
 

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As Ejl said (while I was still typing :D) using the deck lift cylinder as an angling cylinder is not feasable as it has the 4" long slotted float end welded on it plus it only has a 2.25" stroke where the factory cylinder has a 5" stroke per what @Joelk told me awhile back.

I thought about this last night and I came up with the cheapest solution while using the factory deck lift valve in the factory position.

The deck lift cylinder hoses have male -6 ORB fittings on them. Buy adapter fittings from -6 ORB female to 1/4" NPT female. Then off the shelf 1/4" NPT hoses can be used and hooked to the factory hoses eliminating the need to mess with the proprietary Cub ends in the spool valve. Basically hooking the deck lift hoses to 1/4" NPT ended hoses.

Run those forward to an off the shelf 1.5" bore x 4" stroke cylinder with a retracted length of 10" or less.. The ends are where you need to check to see what will fit. My plow is buried in my wellhouse. I'm hoping @Joelk will chime in here as he has set up plenty of these and has more CC 3000 tractors than anyone else on here.
Sorry. I didn't realize that the deck lift cylinder had such a short stroke. The implement lift cylinders that I have dealt with were 2" bore x 4" stroke.

There are two benefits that can be derived with a blade that can be angled. One is obvious, snow can be directed off to the side to reduce or eliminate windrows on the opposite side. The second is less obvious, the end of the blade can be used to jack the tractor backwards or pull it forward in order to get the tractor out of trouble..

Information needed, but not supplied, to set up for an adequate hydraulic angle cylinder:
  • Width of blade
  • Hydraulic pressure available
  • Maximum angle L/R desired.

Shorter stroke cylinders can be used for angling a blade, provided that the mounting pin holes are placed in the correct locations with some effort for precision.

Force available at the ends of the blade depends on which end of the blade, maximum angular displacement of the blade, whether pushing that end forward or pulling it back, and on which side of the plow the cylinder is mounted.

The problem is to find the right combination of bore, stroke, and pressure that can assist getting the tractor out of trouble without bending the blade. For a comparative reference, and assuming that the 2.25" stroke deck lift cylinder has a 2" bore, the force available at the end of a 48" blade that can be angled +/-30° is:
  • 2 x 2.25 cylinder @ 500 psi = 141 lb
  • 1.5 x 4 cylinder @ 750 psi = .. 192 lb
  • 1x4" cylinder @1000 psi = ..... 113 lb.

Note: two different stroke lengths, three different bore sizes, and three different pressures. The relevant leverage ratios have been applied. The 1 x 4 cylinder is inadequate, and the 2 x 2.25 cylinder will be quote fast changing angles.

The actual force will be slightly higher or substantially lower depending on which end of the blade is being used and which direction the force is applied (pushing or pulling).

For the extension hoses, my personal choice would be custom made with -6 JIC 37° female swivels to reduce the cost of fittings (2 required) needed to convert to NPT (4 required). Off the shelf hoses tend to be either too short or too long for some applications..
 

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This is exactly what I had in mind, but hoping I could find an original cylinder. Those options look much less expensive though and not that hard to adapt.

Most frustrating is that I just missed a complete 3000 series tractor complete with plow and the hydraulic angling kit. It had a busted rear axle and he was only asking $600! :(
Sorry on the miss man. It is cheaper to buy one already set up than buy the pieces. If/when you get ready to set this up let me know and I'll look up some fittings for you if you have trouble with it.

I bought 2 hydraulic set ups from Surplus Center awhile back and like their service and their fittings are cheaper than anyone else. Hoses were $10-12 or so from them while my local guy made some and charged me $30 each.
 

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See this thread.


I thought I saw a guy respond to you on FB saying that they had a PA cyl? Did he not have it, or did he want $500 for it?
 

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I thought about this last night and I came up with the cheapest solution while using the factory deck lift valve in the factory position.

The deck lift cylinder hoses have male -6 ORB fittings on them. Buy adapter fittings from -6 ORB female to 1/4" NPT female. Then off the shelf 1/4" NPT hoses can be used and hooked to the factory hoses eliminating the need to mess with the proprietary Cub ends in the spool valve. Basically hooking the deck lift hoses to 1/4" NPT ended hoses.
(y) I think that idea has a lot of merit.

IIRC we discussed doing something similar in a different thread.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
See this thread.


I thought I saw a guy respond to you of FB saying that they had a PA cyl? Did he not have it, or did he want $500 for it?
Unfortunately, it was a lift cylinder and the front half of the hitch. It wasn't part of the angling kit at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I like that one if the ends will mount where you need them to.
That one's not going to work. There's only room for a 1 1/2" OD cylinder in there. The piston on the manual piston is .940". It's 12 1/2" between pin centers. Back to the catalog.
 

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That one's not going to work. There's only room for a 1 1/2" OD cylinder in there. The piston on the manual piston is .940". It's 12 1/2" between pin centers. Back to the catalog.
Did you go to the link that I posted? It covers a good bit about what will and will not fit.
 
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