nice job, i bought the factory one and didn't like the way they where wired with the aux lightsd either, i rewired them and ordered up 4 LED worklights, 2 forward and 2 for the rear so i can see what i'm doing when i clear the driveway as well. where did you take the 12v from? i used a spare 12v source from the fuseblock (15a).
New 2305 lighting
I have to say about the only disappointment I have with my 2305 is the lighting when something is attached to the front. I normally blow snow at about 6:30 AM so it's done before the misses leaves for work. We got our first snow (finally) this week and I could hardly see the edge of the driveway when clearing the drive. Our drive is curved so you really have to stay on it 
So I bought some Grote lights off ebay. They are designed for equipment like skid loaders and look like they will hold up to the environment pretty well. They are adjustable and the way I mounted them they will swing out the the way if I hit something.
I mounted two forward and one pointing backwards. I ran new wires up to the dash so I could have control over them individually as I didnt think I would like the way Deere has them connected via the auxilary light wiring. The mounting studs are drilled so you can run the wiring through the mounting stud. I drilled 1" holes in the front of the ROPS to get the socket in there and have black 1" caps coming to cap the hole. But it kept all the wiring inside the ROPS.
They are Halogens (I think 55 watt). Bought the switches from Grainger and they are weather proof.
As you can see from the pictures sitting on the seat the before/after the difference is huge.
So I bought some Grote lights off ebay. They are designed for equipment like skid loaders and look like they will hold up to the environment pretty well. They are adjustable and the way I mounted them they will swing out the the way if I hit something.
I mounted two forward and one pointing backwards. I ran new wires up to the dash so I could have control over them individually as I didnt think I would like the way Deere has them connected via the auxilary light wiring. The mounting studs are drilled so you can run the wiring through the mounting stud. I drilled 1" holes in the front of the ROPS to get the socket in there and have black 1" caps coming to cap the hole. But it kept all the wiring inside the ROPS.
They are Halogens (I think 55 watt). Bought the switches from Grainger and they are weather proof.
As you can see from the pictures sitting on the seat the before/after the difference is huge.
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Exactly. Thats a good size hole but the factory has large holes adjacent to each other for the factory lighting. Should be OK
At times there could be three lights. Two forward and one reverse
Most of the time I would run either/or :trink39:EDIT: Just found this on Grotes site.
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Material: DURAMOLD™/Glass
Finish: Black
Bulb: 888, 95 CP
Voltage Amp: 12V - 3.9 AMP
Bob, It's just a utility bracket I made. I have a drawbar on the bottom with a ball for trailer and a tab for lawn implements. The angles on the top are hooks to grab the garbage cart and haul it to the curb when the tractor is handy. They also will hold a pole saw or a shovel if you are not going too far.
I just tossed it together when I got the tractor mostly for the hitch.
When I find the right tool box I am going to add brackets and mount the tool box forward inside the Imatch.
Its on the tractor 90% of the time except when I am running the loader and switch to the ballast box.
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