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I color outside the lines
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have to say about the only disappointment I have with my 2305 is the lighting when something is attached to the front. I normally blow snow at about 6:30 AM so it's done before the misses leaves for work. We got our first snow (finally) this week and I could hardly see the edge of the driveway when clearing the drive. Our drive is curved so you really have to stay on it :)

So I bought some Grote lights off ebay. They are designed for equipment like skid loaders and look like they will hold up to the environment pretty well. They are adjustable and the way I mounted them they will swing out the the way if I hit something.

I mounted two forward and one pointing backwards. I ran new wires up to the dash so I could have control over them individually as I didnt think I would like the way Deere has them connected via the auxilary light wiring. The mounting studs are drilled so you can run the wiring through the mounting stud. I drilled 1" holes in the front of the ROPS to get the socket in there and have black 1" caps coming to cap the hole. But it kept all the wiring inside the ROPS.

They are Halogens (I think 55 watt). Bought the switches from Grainger and they are weather proof.

As you can see from the pictures sitting on the seat the before/after the difference is huge.
 

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nice job, i bought the factory one and didn't like the way they where wired with the aux lightsd either, i rewired them and ordered up 4 LED worklights, 2 forward and 2 for the rear so i can see what i'm doing when i clear the driveway as well. where did you take the 12v from? i used a spare 12v source from the fuseblock (15a).
 

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Nice job rrm,

I like the swingaway feature, though drilling 1" holes in the ROPS is substantial. That must have been one of those "am I sure I really want to do this" moments.
 

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I color outside the lines
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2,159 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The 10 amp fuse labeled "work lights" on my 2305. I plan to add an accessory port next. Think I will order one from deere since they have a nice rubber cap.
 

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I color outside the lines
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Nice job rrm,

I like the swingaway feature, though drilling 1" holes in the ROPS is substantial. That must have been one of those "am I sure I really want to do this" moments.
Exactly. Thats a good size hole but the factory has large holes adjacent to each other for the factory lighting. Should be OK :)
 

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seems to me you should only be running 120w's worth of lighting on that 10a circuit?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
seems to me you should only be running 120w's worth of lighting on that 10a circuit?
Thats probably true. 120/12 =10. Only other option is running an inline fuse from battery. I dont know where else to get power.

I will change the feed if I have issues. I thought about swapping out the fuse to 15 but dont know how heavy the circuit is feeding it.
 

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Thats probably true. 120/12 =10. Only other option is running an inline fuse from battery. I dont know where else to get power.

I will change the feed if I have issues. I thought about swapping out the fuse to 15 but dont know how heavy the circuit is feeding it.
honestly, you'll probably be fine running a 15a fuse at this stage, but i'd suggest getting a few LED worklights at some point, then you'll end up with lower wattage and similar or better light output. I was maxed out on mine for wattage on my circuit so that's why i decided on LED units.
 

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:thThumbsU:thThumbsU excellent work as always. slkpk
 

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Very nice lighting.. Sure makes the job easier on the eyes.. Please don't up your fuse. That circuit was designed for that amp fuse. You could melt wires and not realize you have a problem till its to late. Spend the couple bucks for that capped fuse holder and go from there to be safe. Or add one from Painless wire harness. They make amazing stuff..
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks Bob.

Team Green, I think upping the fuse would be OK. I looked at the wire feeding the fuse block and its plenty heavy. The wiring on the other side is all new 14 ga. so looks like 15 would be OK.

Right now its working fine and plan to leave it since it will be over protected at 10 amps.

But its nice to have light !!!
 

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Very nice!

You should be ok with 10 amp fuse, two 55 watts draw 9.16 (110/12=9.16 or more likely 110/13.5= 8.15) if you take a amp meter and take some reading you"ll find in reality they pull more like 8.75 ~ :fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Very nice!

You should be ok with 10 amp fuse, two 55 watts draw 9.16 (110/12=9.16 or more likely 110/13.5= 8.15) if you take a amp meter and take some reading you"ll find in reality they pull more like 8.75 ~ :fing32:
At times there could be three lights. Two forward and one reverse :) Most of the time I would run either/or :trink39:

EDIT: Just found this on Grotes site.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
Material: DURAMOLD™/Glass
Finish: Black
Bulb: 888, 95 CP
Voltage Amp: 12V - 3.9 AMP
 

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Rich, what do you have attached to your IMatch? slkpk
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 · (Edited)
Rich, what do you have attached to your IMatch? slkpk
Bob, It's just a utility bracket I made. I have a drawbar on the bottom with a ball for trailer and a tab for lawn implements. The angles on the top are hooks to grab the garbage cart and haul it to the curb when the tractor is handy. They also will hold a pole saw or a shovel if you are not going too far.

I just tossed it together when I got the tractor mostly for the hitch.

When I find the right tool box I am going to add brackets and mount the tool box forward inside the Imatch.

Its on the tractor 90% of the time except when I am running the loader and switch to the ballast box.
 

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