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Recently picked up this gem that had a reported less than 1 hour of use; it still looks new.

After cleaning the carb and tank it stared right up. Added an inline gas filter and an easier to get to shut-off valve.
B&S 10 hp engine is 19E412

Just finished the conversion today to electric start, hand pulling is for you young people, I'll be 79 in 3 weeks.

Should I trust the original oil or just replace it and if replaced is synthetic OK? B&S says OK but that was over 20 years ago. Since winter is starting I guess 5W30 is the choice?

Any other caveats?

Here is the manual, oil is on page 7
https://www.briggsandstratton.com/na/en_us/support/manuals/results.enginemanuals.html?searchrequested=19E412-1131-E1

Geoff
 

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With a history like that I think I'd stick in a conventional dinosaur 5/10-30 in and run it for a while before I switched to synthetic. I know opinions vary on this, but that's mine. If it truly only has one hour on it then the engine is nowhere near broken in yet.

I would definitely change the oil ASAP; whatever you decide to put in fresh is a better bet than 10 year-old mystery juice.
 

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I would definitely change the oil ASAP; whatever you decide to put in fresh is a better bet than 10 year-old mystery juice.
Thanks, thats 22 year old factory juice and its mighty clear and thin. The one hour came from the widow and their son, it was too hard to pull start and it was stored. I have a fresh jug of Walmart 10W-30 Hi Mileage or should I stick to the basic stuff with less additives?

I was also concerned and thinking about break in time using conventional oil, about how many hours under load?

It took awhile to find the proper flywheel (a 8 hp snowblower that a friend had pulled the engine years ago and tossed in a pile) and then a short body starter using a cast aluminum base that locked into the grooves on the block came from a 12.5 HP lawn tractor in my junk pile. Then an all new B&S drive kit from Fleabay that was cheaper than an import; not many using that old long snout version with the pin any longer. All that was an education for me!

Geoff
 

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We had that same model until it was stolen about 4-5 years back. We just ran 30w dino oil in it. We had to use it a couple times, always worked fine.
I agree, though - change the old oil. Oil itself doesn't go bad, but there could be condensation in there.
Was that engine designed for synthetic oil? It may or may not be worth the extra expense. I really can't offer any expertese on synthetic oil in small engines, but I always run synthetic in my vehicles.
 

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I have a fresh jug of Walmart 10W-30 Hi Mileage...
I'd go ahead and throw that in... it's not gonna be in there for very long anyhow. After the oil change I'd run it steady and under moderate load for a couple of hours, then drain the oil again and have a good rummage through it, looking for signs of break-in flakes. If you see any shiny bits in there, lather/rinse/repeat until the oil drains clean and clear. Cheap oil is fine for this; once it's looking good go ahead with a fill of the good stuff and it'll be good to go.
 

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We had that same model until it was stolen about 4-5 years back. We just ran 30w dino oil in it. We had to use it a couple times, always worked fine.
I agree, though - change the old oil. Oil itself doesn't go bad, but there could be condensation in there.
Was that engine designed for synthetic oil? It may or may not be worth the extra expense. I really can't offer any expertese on synthetic oil in small engines, but I always run synthetic in my vehicles.

The online manual for the B&S 19E412 engine says synthetic is OK at all temperatures. Just got around to draining the old oil and will run a few hours with the dino oil as suggested.
 
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