[falkengeist]

I just added a Johnny Bucket to the front of my JD GT225. The first time out I almost got stuck. I have turf tires and they spun pretty easily. I understand that the tractor has a great Tuff-torq transaxle, but I don't believe my model can be locked up. Anyway, I have a few questions about getting better traction.
1. JD has 2 types of wheel weights, cast iron and a plastic cap style. Both are 50 pounds, but the plastic caps are half the price. Which would be the best? Why?

2. JD also has these 42 pound weight packs that you can quickly attach to a bracket on the frame. Seems like a good idea since I can take them off quickly when I'm not using the bucket. How do these compare with other types of ballast?

3. I see plastic chains being offered. I'm sure they'd be easier on my driveway, but are they going to hold up? Should I stick with the usual metal chains?

4. Of all the things mentioned above, which would be the most helpful, or do I need them all? Any other suggestions?

Thanks,
Chuck

 

[Velocemag]

Try filling the tires with washer fluid. It gets the weight lower to the ground, adds about 50 lbs per wheel (6 gallons) and it's cheaper. I did the rear wheels on my Snapper 1644 (Simplicity Conquest) and it made more of a difference than I had expected. Of course the added weight will depend on your wheel size, I was working with a 23x10.50x12 tire.

 

[TUDOR]

As Velocemag says, the one you didn't mention. Load the tires with Rim Guard. You'll get closer to 75 lb in the tires.

Some versions of front buckets can be worse than a full FEL for taking weight from the rear wheels due to how far out in front they are when transporting and how high they are lifted.

1. Cast iron weights are superior due to their smaller size and durability. They don't stick out beyond the reims to get broken by close obstructions and they can easily be doubled on the rim without sticking out any farther than the plastic weights.

2. Suitcase weights are an effective alternative to using a rear mounted implement for a counterweight. The down side is that more weight is reguired due to the shorter leverage involved. The upside is that close quarters manoeuvering is easier than with an implement stuck way out behind.

3. Plastic and rubber chains are primarily for use in snow conditions to reduce the possibility of damage to asphalt driveways where traction is limited. Traction is not as limited on bare ground and rear axle torque numbers can be quite high. Steel chains will stand the strain, I'm not so sure about rubber or plastic.

4. You have a light tractor and need them all.

 

[Dave Shaver]

Re: JD GT225 Need some traction advice

When I run my 345 with the JBjr I have the plastic wheel weights (which stay on all the time) and either the tiller or 4 suitcase weights on the back. Have not had a traction problem yet that I needed chains even when tilling the garden. I only use the chains, and they are meta,l in the winter with the blade or snowthrower. I have found with enough weight on the back I don't scratch up the drive that badly.

Your mileage may differ............:ROF