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Discussion Starter #1
Since my machine is going back together and I've had a drive belt for a while but hadn't the time before now to install it, I took a look at the changing process today. It seemed fairly straight forward until I got to the idlers.

To change the belt, it looks like I've got to disassemble them and remove bolts and a guide from the Emag PTO as well. Not sure but that's what it looked like at 2 this afternoon staring up at the units.

Could anyone tell me if I'm on the right track?

Also-
Since this machine is from the early 1990's and there was no maintenance by the P/O before I bought it in '08 I'm thinking these are original units and it might just be smarter if I replaced the lot of them, or are these the sort of units that are good for half a century?

Your help is really appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So in a conversation with a JD tech,
#1) it's a 2.5 hour R+R on my machine in the JD flat rate book. (Some machines require the steering column removed ugh)

#2) given the age of the machine, replacing the idler pulleys / sheaves isn't a bad idea. Old plastic gets brittle and breaks easier.

#3) there are bushings in the idler pulleys - you should change at least them when you change the belt. Cheap insurance.

Since I'm going to be in an area where I can high-center easily, I'm changing the whole kit and looking to get away easy.

Probably should make a skid plate too . . . hmmm

Anyway, thanks for lookin' and now you know enough to have it done or at least, what you might be in for. :00000060:
 

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Murph
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So in a conversation with a JD tech,
#1) it's a 2.5 hour R+R on my machine in the JD flat rate book. (Some machines require the steering column removed ugh)

Anyway, thanks for lookin' and now you know enough to have it done or at least, what you might be in for. :00000060:
Whoda thunk that? :banghead3

Thanks for the heads up!
 

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Diesel Power
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5,340 Posts
Idlers ... with the belt off if you can move them up/down or side to side you need bushings. If you can't ... you don't. Spin the idler. If it spins freely and doesn't make any squealing noises you don't need to replace them. If they do make that noise or are hard to turn replace them. No need to replace parts just because, unless you are wealthy or bored or both.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Idlers ... with the belt off if you can move them up/down or side to side you need bushings. If you can't ... you don't. Spin the idler. If it spins freely and doesn't make any squealing noises you don't need to replace them. If they do make that noise or are hard to turn replace them. No need to replace parts just because, unless you are wealthy or bored or both.
You raise a good point, if it aint broke and what not. OTOH, the parts are cheap, the ones in there are twenty two years old, I'll already have them out of where they've lived for twenty two years and I never want to see the underside again if I can help it. (You know that NOW, the PTO will grenade, right after I button it back up and put a skid plate on).

Over the years I've found that once disturbed, elderly parts seem to fail right away. I was trying to find a way to sneak a new belt in without having to disturb anything. Sadly, it's not designed that way. I'm not sure what the service life of these parts is but, I'd put a beer on it that it has been exceeded by a wide margin.

And yes as a matter of fact I AM rich, FILTHY rich and in fact, I'm bored witless :fing20: That GEICO commercial where the bike rider is covered in cash? Those are my old home movies.:bonk:

I'm so rich that I work on twenty two year old, out of date, rust bucket NLA parts tractors for a hobby:sidelaugh
 
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