Need Some Help Please, free Ferguson TO-30 pic
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That's the "Power Take-Off Lever (PTO)". Push lever towards the front bumper and the PTO drive is off. Pull the lever up and towards the rear and the PTO is engaged and the PTO shaft (between the two lifting arms in the rear) will spin and drive farm implements (bush hog..ETC).
GREAT FREEBIE!!!!!! :thThumbsU
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4,256 Posts
After turning my head and looking at the 2nd pic side ways, I agree w/SandDawg, it's the PTO lever 
A few words of caution and an FYI.
1st off the T030 is a very good tractor. It's got plenty of power and can lift well over 1000lbs at the 3ph. The fact it was free makes it outstanding and it's well worth whatever it'l take to mae it 100% servicable.
This tractor does not have "live power" meaning the 3PH will not operate unless the pto is engaged and running (that lever in your 2nd pic ). Also when you step on the clutch to either stop or shift gears it also disengages the PTO, meaning theres no hydraulic power being applied to the 3PH. Generally the 3ph will stay up for a little while with the clutch disengaged but it's not unusual for it to start dropping alittle within sec's, alot depend on the weight on it. It also depends on how much wear is in the 3PH cylinder. Rebuild kits are readily available if needed.
If you plan on operating a 5' rotary cutter or finish mower you absolutely need to have a PTO overrunning clutch adaptor on the pto shaft. If it doesn't have one you can pick one up at TSC or any other tractor supply place for around $30. It slides on the end of the PTO shaft and you drive a pin in it to keep it on.
The reason you want one of these is because the PTO shaft is mechanically connected to the rear drive axles through the tranny. Not directly but connected all the same.
Lets say you are brush-hogging along a fence row and you push in the clutch to either downshift or slow down inorder to turn, well the centrifical force of the spinning rotary cutter will still continue to drive the rear wheels for a foot or two or three and theres been many the story of farmers being driven through fences because of this. The overrunning clutch adapter stops this.
Remember, depressing the clutch disengages the engine from the tranny, NOT the pto from the rear wheels.
Another thing. lets say you want to transport that rotary cutter and you either want to lift it and carry it high or just carry it low and only lift it when you encounter an obstacle, in either case you have to have the pto engaged inorder for the 3PH to lift and guess what that also does, it'll spin the mower up too. Most folks don't want their mower running in transport mode so what I did (and most everyone else) was to make a large loop of wire ( I used electric fencing but a rope or similar will work), and I hung that loop through the 3PH top link to where it hung down about 8" or 9" and I'd then disconnect the mowers driveshaft from the PTO overrunning clutch adapter and hang it in this loop. It was high enough to where it wouldn't hit or interfere w/the spinning pto shaft. Now I could transport the mower with the lift working and the pto spinning without the mower itself running.
Theres alot more info & tricks that I'm sure others will update you on. Congrats on getting such a nice tractor fir such a really good price
Dave
A few words of caution and an FYI.
1st off the T030 is a very good tractor. It's got plenty of power and can lift well over 1000lbs at the 3ph. The fact it was free makes it outstanding and it's well worth whatever it'l take to mae it 100% servicable.
This tractor does not have "live power" meaning the 3PH will not operate unless the pto is engaged and running (that lever in your 2nd pic
). Also when you step on the clutch to either stop or shift gears it also disengages the PTO, meaning theres no hydraulic power being applied to the 3PH. Generally the 3ph will stay up for a little while with the clutch disengaged but it's not unusual for it to start dropping alittle within sec's, alot depend on the weight on it. It also depends on how much wear is in the 3PH cylinder. Rebuild kits are readily available if needed.If you plan on operating a 5' rotary cutter or finish mower you absolutely need to have a PTO overrunning clutch adaptor on the pto shaft. If it doesn't have one you can pick one up at TSC or any other tractor supply place for around $30. It slides on the end of the PTO shaft and you drive a pin in it to keep it on.
The reason you want one of these is because the PTO shaft is mechanically connected to the rear drive axles through the tranny. Not directly but connected all the same.
Lets say you are brush-hogging along a fence row and you push in the clutch to either downshift or slow down inorder to turn, well the centrifical force of the spinning rotary cutter will still continue to drive the rear wheels for a foot or two or three and theres been many the story of farmers being driven through fences because of this. The overrunning clutch adapter stops this.
Remember, depressing the clutch disengages the engine from the tranny, NOT the pto from the rear wheels.
Another thing. lets say you want to transport that rotary cutter and you either want to lift it and carry it high or just carry it low and only lift it when you encounter an obstacle, in either case you have to have the pto engaged inorder for the 3PH to lift and guess what that also does, it'll spin the mower up too. Most folks don't want their mower running in transport mode so what I did (and most everyone else) was to make a large loop of wire ( I used electric fencing but a rope or similar will work), and I hung that loop through the 3PH top link to where it hung down about 8" or 9" and I'd then disconnect the mowers driveshaft from the PTO overrunning clutch adapter and hang it in this loop. It was high enough to where it wouldn't hit or interfere w/the spinning pto shaft. Now I could transport the mower with the lift working and the pto spinning without the mower itself running.
Theres alot more info & tricks that I'm sure others will update you on. Congrats on getting such a nice tractor fir such a really good price
Dave
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1,237 Posts
Ok so far I'm haveing a problem with the starter and the points are fired. with battery hook up you push shifter to start and notthing. I can get the engine to roll if I put power to the stater I have spark to the points but not to the plugs, but the points are really bad so soon as I can find a place to buy parts I need, I'll get points cap all that good stuff,
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4,256 Posts
Is it still 6v or has it been upgraded to 12v? (if it has a generator is still probably 6v, if it has an alternator it's been upgraded to 12v)
Knowing which charging system you have will determine troubleshooting.....
After awhile the starter contacts in the tranny wear to the point where they won't conduct and it's a somewhat major deal to repair. Most folks add an electric solenoid and starter switch for starting. Type of solenoid (6v or 12v) depends on your charging system. I did this to my TE20 Ferguson when the shifter starter contacts stopped working.
Funny thing about points, they are one of the few things that can go bad from just sitting Once the contacts corrode enough they will not pass current. Cleaning the contacts w/a very small bernishing tool (similar to a very small file), will get them operational and most times theywork for a long time but the best bet is to just replace them and the condensor too. Check on the inside of the distributer cap and make sure the contacts are good and clean. If you see carbon trails try and clean them out also. That high voltage spark will follow the easiest path to ground and those carbon traces provided the easiest path. Make sure the rotary button's tip is also good and clean, if it's eat away from yr's of arcing and sparking replace it too.
Course make sure the plugs look servicable as well as the plug wires. Sitting has a way of allow corrosion etc., to grow and mess up electrics...
re. 6v or 12v charging system. Upgrading these old tractors from 6v to 12v is mainly done to make starting easier. All the starting and ignition hardware can be reused but there has to be a resistor placed in the circuit between the ignition switch and the Pos terminal of the coil. An old Chrysler ignition resistor is the most commonly used. Without this resistor the points will burn up quite quickly and the coil won't last very long either.
I've seen all these parts at my local TSC. You can also try your local MF dealer. If they aren't available locally there are a few web sites where you can order them.
Just some more FYI.
Let us know.
Dave
Knowing which charging system you have will determine troubleshooting.....
After awhile the starter contacts in the tranny wear to the point where they won't conduct and it's a somewhat major deal to repair. Most folks add an electric solenoid and starter switch for starting. Type of solenoid (6v or 12v) depends on your charging system. I did this to my TE20 Ferguson when the shifter starter contacts stopped working.
Funny thing about points, they are one of the few things that can go bad from just sitting
Once the contacts corrode enough they will not pass current. Cleaning the contacts w/a very small bernishing tool (similar to a very small file), will get them operational and most times theywork for a long time but the best bet is to just replace them and the condensor too. Check on the inside of the distributer cap and make sure the contacts are good and clean. If you see carbon trails try and clean them out also. That high voltage spark will follow the easiest path to ground and those carbon traces provided the easiest path. Make sure the rotary button's tip is also good and clean, if it's eat away from yr's of arcing and sparking replace it too.Course make sure the plugs look servicable as well as the plug wires. Sitting has a way of allow corrosion etc., to grow and mess up electrics...
re. 6v or 12v charging system. Upgrading these old tractors from 6v to 12v is mainly done to make starting easier. All the starting and ignition hardware can be reused but there has to be a resistor placed in the circuit between the ignition switch and the Pos terminal of the coil. An old Chrysler ignition resistor is the most commonly used. Without this resistor the points will burn up quite quickly and the coil won't last very long either.
I've seen all these parts at my local TSC. You can also try your local MF dealer. If they aren't available locally there are a few web sites where you can order them.
Just some more FYI.
Let us know.
Dave
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371 Posts
Gotta like "free"!! I'm wondering what the pipe is in the picture of the PTO lever. Just forward of the lever looks like a 90 degree iron pipe fitting... Don't have that option on mine.
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1,237 Posts
Dave Volfandt Thanks for all the info it will help in the long run, SandDawg Thanks for the manual. I all have for this tractor is a 3ph rear blade would like to find a Tiller, I Think I'm going to add an electric solenoid and starter switch for starting. again Thanks
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My cousin has been trying to get one of them to go with his collection: Ford 8n, Ferguson TO-20, Massey Ferguson 35 with perkins diesel, and Massey Harris 33. Nice deal!!!!
Does this have the starter in the shifter like the TO-20??
Does this have the starter in the shifter like the TO-20??
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4,256 Posts
James, since it's 12v an old Ford starter solenoid will work and it may be cheaper than a universal one at TSC. You might shop around abit.
To wire it in, you'll want to mount it so as to make use of the existing heavy battery cables that are tied down on the tranny shifter starter connections.
Add a push button on the dash and wire it in on the switched side of the ignition switch to the small solenoid terminal and you'll be GTG.
re. getting fire to the plugs. Make sure you have that resistor wired into the ignition circuit that I mentioned before. If you have a multimeter troubleshooting will be soemwhat easy.
Let us know.
Dave
To wire it in, you'll want to mount it so as to make use of the existing heavy battery cables that are tied down on the tranny shifter starter connections.
Add a push button on the dash and wire it in on the switched side of the ignition switch to the small solenoid terminal and you'll be GTG.
re. getting fire to the plugs. Make sure you have that resistor wired into the ignition circuit that I mentioned before. If you have a multimeter troubleshooting will be soemwhat easy.
Let us know.
Dave
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4,012 Posts
James,
Make sure the TO-30 has an independent PTO!! I made the mistake of buying a tiller for my TO-20 (Not Thinking at the time :banghead3 ). The TO-20 does not have an independent PTO so the tiller will not spin fast enough when I'm throttled down in low gear and the tractor will be moving to fast at full throttle for the tiller to do any good. Just don't want you to spend money on something you can not use, like I did. :dunno: Luckily I got a good buy on the tiller so I'll just sale or trade it for something I need. :thThumbsU
On the Tractor Data site: http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/001/0/8/1084-ferguson-to-30.html
It shows that the TO-30 PTO is transmission driven like my TO-20.
You will need to get a PTO Over Run Clutch for your tractor if you will be using it to bush hog. http://www.tractorsupply.com/overrunning-pto-coupler-1-1-8-in-x-6-female-spline-0271148
Ken N Tx gave a very good explanation of why the ORC is needed but can not find my old post at the moment. I copied the following from the TSC site and it gives a good explanation of why you need one.
A MUST have for older tractors!
October 5, 2011
I just bought a 1950 8N tractor, and in order to use a shredder (as an example) you MUST have an overrun adapter!
Once the PTO is engaged, it runs.... that is it! NO live PTO! Therefore, the PTO is tied DIRECTLY into the tranny!
Without an overrun adapter, if you "clutch" the tranny, and attempt to stop... well good luck! The PTO and the centrifical force of the shredder will just KEEP going, and KEEP driving the tractor!
See that tree? See that barn door? Too bad! Without an overrun adapter, you 'Aint-a-gonna" stop!
THIS little guy will save your butt! It allows the "implement" to continue it's centifical force, and at the same time... it allows the tractor to "seperate" from the PTO (free-wheel) and stop!
Simply put.. it is a ONE-way clutch, that allows your PTO to "Speed -up" under power, YET.. it disconnects (slips) from the drive-train for the "wind-down".
A MUST have for older PTO tractors!
:trink39:
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System came originally 6 volt positive ground. As you stated it has been converted to the a 12 negative ground system.
This conversion to 12 volt had it's problem with the starter housing. Sometimes when the ign sent the 12 volts to the starter it pushed the spring to hard causing damage to the nose cone on the starter. This can not be helped because it was originally built for the 6 volt system. Also If your tractor does not start right away I would not continually crank it because it can burn your starter out. It's best to crank a little and let it rest so it doesn't heat up.
This conversion to 12 volt had it's problem with the starter housing. Sometimes when the ign sent the 12 volts to the starter it pushed the spring to hard causing damage to the nose cone on the starter. This can not be helped because it was originally built for the 6 volt system. Also If your tractor does not start right away I would not continually crank it because it can burn your starter out. It's best to crank a little and let it rest so it doesn't heat up.
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