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Need Some Ford Help

3447 Views 17 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  itsjustjb
I usually post in the JD lawn and garden section and need some help from you Ford guys. I have two Ford vehicles so I home you will accept me.:ROF I have established that this is probably a Ford 3000 circa 1968. It has probably been several years since it has been used. It is about three hours away from me and above my skill level to get it good working order. Anyone have any idea the cost to get it working assming it was still working when it was parked? And how much is it worth if I can get it running?




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You're more than welcome to post here. We like to discuss old Ford tractors with anyone who'll pay attention.

As I said in my reply to your post in the JD forum, a non-running tractor of that size and vintage isn't worth more than $500.00, and another $200.00 to $300.00 for the mower.

If you're paying someone else to do the work, assume that it will cost at least $500.00 just to replace all of the fluids and filters and bleed the fuel lines. It probably needs more than that, but you won't know what it needs until you tear into it (or pay someone else to tear into it). Most shops will charge you an hourly rate just to look at it and tell you what it needs, and then they'll charge you to do the actual work. If the engine won't turn over, most shops will tell you that it needs a rebuild even if it's just stuck from sitting. An engine rebuild will be somewhere in the neighborhood of $2000.00. A full service of the hydraulic s under the top cover, which it will probably need, is another $200.00 to $500.00. A new clutch requires splitting the tractor, which isn't cheap to have someone else do, but I'm not sure what someone would charge for the labor, but that tractor has the dual stick transmission, so it's either the 6 or 8 speed, so it probably has the 2 stage clutch, so just the parts are up in the $300.00+ range for an aftermarket clutch to over $800.00 for a real OEM Ford version.
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You're more than welcome to post here. We like to discuss old Ford tractors with anyone who'll pay attention.

As I said in my reply to your post in the JD forum, a non-running tractor of that size and vintage isn't worth more than $500.00, and another $200.00 to $300.00 for the mower.

If you're paying someone else to do the work, assume that it will cost at least $500.00 just to replace all of the fluids and filters and bleed the fuel lines. It probably needs more than that, but you won't know what it needs until you tear into it (or pay someone else to tear into it). Most shops will charge you an hourly rate just to look at it and tell you what it needs, and then they'll charge you to do the actual work. If the engine won't turn over, most shops will tell you that it needs a rebuild even if it's just stuck from sitting. An engine rebuild will be somewhere in the neighborhood of $2000.00. A full service of the hydraulic s under the top cover, which it will probably need, is another $200.00 to $500.00. A new clutch requires splitting the tractor, which isn't cheap to have someone else do, but I'm not sure what someone would charge for the labor, but that tractor has the dual stick transmission, so it's either the 6 or 8 speed, so it probably has the 2 stage clutch, so just the parts are up in the $300.00+ range for an aftermarket clutch to over $800.00 for a real OEM Ford version.
So let's say I can get it running. How much would I be able to sell it for? I could try to sell it not running but I have to get it home. I would have to figure out how to get it on a U-haul trailer. I would have to figure out if the transmission is stuck and how to get the front wheels straightened if I have any hope of getting it on a trailer.
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You're more than welcome to post here. We like to discuss old Ford tractors with anyone who'll pay attention.

As I said in my reply to your post in the JD forum, a non-running tractor of that size and vintage isn't worth more than $500.00, and another $200.00 to $300.00 for the mower.

If you're paying someone else to do the work, assume that it will cost at least $500.00 just to replace all of the fluids and filters and bleed the fuel lines. It probably needs more than that, but you won't know what it needs until you tear into it (or pay someone else to tear into it). Most shops will charge you an hourly rate just to look at it and tell you what it needs, and then they'll charge you to do the actual work. If the engine won't turn over, most shops will tell you that it needs a rebuild even if it's just stuck from sitting. An engine rebuild will be somewhere in the neighborhood of $2000.00. A full service of the hydraulic s under the top cover, which it will probably need, is another $200.00 to $500.00. A new clutch requires splitting the tractor, which isn't cheap to have someone else do, but I'm not sure what someone would charge for the labor, but that tractor has the dual stick transmission, so it's either the 6 or 8 speed, so it probably has the 2 stage clutch, so just the parts are up in the $300.00+ range for an aftermarket clutch to over $800.00 for a real OEM Ford version.
So let's say I can get it running. How much would I be able to sell it for? I could try to sell it not running but I have to get it home. I would have to figure out how to get it on a U-haul trailer. I would have to figure out if the transmission is stuck and how to get the front wheels straightened if I have any hope of getting it on a trailer.
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Running, with everything functioning properly, hydraulics, PTO, transmission, steering, brakes, etc. it could bring anywhere from $2500.00 to $5000.00 depending on what part of the country you're in and what people in your area are used to paying. I'm not familiar with the market in Georgia, so I couldn't give you an exact number. Here in southeastern PA, it would probably go for $3500.00 or so. If you cleaned up all the surface rust on the tins and gave it a good paint job, it might even fetch a bit more.
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Yeah it's a diesel without power steering.. Which IMO is a good thing as long as you aren't running a FEL... we have 2 3000's a '65 and a '73 both with PS, and they are always blowing seals/lines etc.. the 3p.h. is also a weak spot, as is the hydraulic pump.. though our '65 has a better system of ataching the lines to the pump than the newer..
If you can get it for $500 or less, and can winch it onto a trailer, go for it! It's worth close to that in scrap... But that's only if you can afford to lose $500 and a couple day's time.. Don't mess with it if it is taking money out of your kid's college fund... :)
Jonathan
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Any ideas how I could get it onto a Uhaul trailer? The wheels are turned sharply to the left. How do I get it into Neutral, is there a clutch? I will be loading it by myself. I have a hand winch, an F250 and 20 feet of 6000lb chain. Think I can do it? The brush cutter is attached should I detach it?
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Put it in neutral block down the clutch pedal jack the front up and turn the wheels where they need to be and hook the winch on and load her up. Probably going to need a 16' trailer to load it all in one shot. The rear wheels look to be about 56" from the centers so it should be a problem.

Kirk
Put it in neutral block down the clutch pedal jack the front up and turn the wheels where they need to be and hook the winch on and load her up. Probably going to need a 16' trailer to load it all in one shot. The rear wheels look to be about 56" from the centers so it should be a problem.

Kirk
Good ideas, thanks.
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Dude, if you don't know if it has a clutch or how to turn the steering wheel, this might not be the right project for you...

Not trying to sound mean, but if you don't know anything about these tractors, you would be money ahead to buy a working one ready to go, and learn as you need to... Buying one like this without knowing anything about how the tractor is supposed to be, is just asking for trouble...
IMO Spend the 3-5K on one that is turn key ready...
Jonathan
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Well, its free and I really don't need one. I am just trying to figure out if I can make any money on it. 1. I can sell it for scrap (I hate to do that if it will easily run) 2. I can have someone fix it to get it running 3. I can bring it home and have a project for my son and me (if we cannot get it running see #1) 4. I can do nothing and leave it where it is. I am just trying to figure out what to do. I am somewhat mechanically inclined but have only worked on cars. I am a fast learner and the help on this site is unbelievably good. No, I really don't know anything about these tractors, but this would be a good one to start on. When my 13 year old son who spends most of his time on XBOX said he would be interested in getting it running with me I started thinking about making it our project together.
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I'd be all over that for free. Those were good tractors, espescially the diesel. The good news is that it has a rain cap on the exhaust, so hopefully the engine is OK.
For free you can't go wrong. If you can't get it running, you can make more parting it out than scrapping it. The sheet metal looks to be in good shape with only surface rust, so you could get several hundred dollars just for that The steering looks intact, it just looks like someone turned the wheel all the way to the left at some point in the past. It doesn't have power steering, so it won't turn easily sitting still, but once you get it rolling with a winch you should be able to straighten it out to roll it on the trailer.

Good luck with it and keep posting back here with any questions, or just with progress reports, and pictures, you know we like pictures.
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Well that's a different story :) Free and close make it a no-brainer if you have the space and the interested son..

I wasn't trying to sound mean, just so many people dive in head first without the means etc.
The first thing to do after checking the oil, is see if it will turn over.. A battery alone for a diesel 3000 is well over $100. and it is worth it to just buy a good one, as it will take some time cranking to prime the pump.
I would disconnect the fuel tank and see what comes out the bottom.. (once you determine that the engine isn't stuck) I would also start with new fuel filters.. they are cheap and readily available at carquest.. If the fuel tank has tons of crap in it I would plumb in a temporary one just to get it running.. Removing the fuel tank is not an insignificant job, since you have to remove the steering wheel which is generally very well rusted on..
This would be a very fun project. You will want the ford 3000 I.T. shop manual as well..
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I will have to spend a day going to get it since the tractor is three hours away. And I will have to make sure it fits on a Uhaul trailer. Since I cannot get behind it to drag it I will have to straighten out the wheels before moving it. Hopefully, it will easily go into neutral.
I will have to spend a day going to get it since the tractor is three hours away. And I will have to make sure it fits on a Uhaul trailer. Since I cannot get behind it to drag it I will have to straighten out the wheels before moving it. Hopefully, it will easily go into neutral.
Jack the front up to take the weight off and turn the wheel in the direction you need to go. I have hand winched many tractor on my trailer before I got an electric winch. Take a snatch block with you to double the pull. Extra slings and chains will help.

kirk
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Also, see if there's a heavy equipment rental place near you that rents backhoes and such. They will usually rent their equipment hauling trailers fairly inexpensively, and they usually rent the chains and binders along with the trailer, and that would be much safer than a U-Haul trailer.
If you have a good mechanical back ground, you can pick up a repair manual and go to town. Sounds like a good project, and those tractors are not that bad to work on. If nothing else you and your son get some time together, and that alone would be worth putting a few hundred into it.:thThumbsU
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