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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Com-12 which has me stumped. The PTO was jumping out of gear once in a while so I pulled apart the shipper shifter shaft ( how ever you say it ) and there was no spring or ball in it. The shifting rod near the pull handle does not have the roll pin in it to keep it engaged like on my 566"s or my other Com-12. I took my box of spare shipper shafts and set one up the correct way BUT I cant get it to shift correctly. I set the space at .010" and greased it up good also polished up any markings. It turns fine when I hold it in my hand but not when its on the tractor.I used the straight shifter flat bar and tried a shifter of an old L model but still wrong. I just can't figure out why it wont shift in and out ?? I took everything apart in side the advanced casting and all is good. If I tap it with a small hammer and punch it shifts. Do I groove out the slot on the end of the flat bar a bit to help or some thing else ?

Thanks.
Troy.
 

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I had a 5665 that exhibited the same symptoms. What I found that can happen is the shifter arm (actuator bar) (Ref #35) can wear. What happens then is that the slot becomes too long and allows #38 (shaft body) to rotate beyond center due to inertia and that makes it very difficult to shift. After I replaced the shifter arm and all was well.

I took out all of the slop between the shipper shaft body (#38) and shipper shaft guide (#39). The idea behind that was to keep the shipper shaft (#40) aligned to the bore in the body. A shaft can bind in a bore if it is not kept aligned.

None of my tractors have a detent ball or spring. They never had one either.

If the trunnion block or shipper shaft is excessively worn, that will also cause shifting problems.

If #37 is worn, that will also cause problems.

If you do not have strap spacer (Ref #34), I would add it and #33.

The biggest problem when fixing shipper shaft issues is determining what is worn and what isn't. In my case, I replaced the arm and that took care of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
WOW what a great answer !!!!!!!! Thanks Richard !! There was no #34 so I did add one and put #33 on the other side. There is no play at all in #40,39,38,37 and I may take #36 out. But what will keep the PTO from jumping out ? Do I put a small roll pin in the handle so it hooks in a slot on the control pannel as there is no slot yet but my other Com-12 has the slot to use as reference though?
Once again thank you for such a detailed answer.
Troy.
 

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Troy -- on your original problem of jumping out of gear:

On the carburetor side underneath right behind the first gas tank mount, you'll find a piece of 90 degree angle iron mounted. This is designed to keep the PTO handle engaged (they meet each other under the gas tank.) Over time, it develops wear and needs to be adjusted. Simply loosen the frame bolt and make sure the angle iron is tight against the PTO bar. That should do the trick.
 

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The bit of angle and the bends in the handle is what keeps the pto engaged or disengaged.

Here is a picture.





If you did not replace #35, do so. It is the U shaped slot at the end of the bar that wears. It is a sneaky one because it wears so evenly that unless you have a new one to compare it to, it generally looks perfectly fine.
 

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Also always Check part number 39. Had the same problem on one of my Kohler 16s. Adjusted this,
that,replaced shafts lubed etc. # 39 was warped just enough where it mated to the housing that caused it to keep jumping out of gear. Got new one from a friend and problem solved.
 

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One more note. Whenever any work is done on the PTO, make sure it is in the disengaged position before installing the attachment. Failure to do that usually results in a bent shipper shaft or worse.

On those tractors that do not have the Pro style battery box. I spend the time and remove the battery box. The extra 5-10 minutes is time well spent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys !! I will try and fix the problem in the morn. It is to be -27c in the morn so a nice heated garage is where I'll be while my wife and kids sleep in. I will let ya's know the out come as it should go well now with the great tips. Thanks.

Troy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So I just went out to the garage to look at the shifter rod like Richard and gm1276
pointed out and there is a lot of wear. I never thought to check that.Here are a picture of a front view.Some #38 are thicker than others so I had to adjust for the height difference. No I don't have an oil leak,I sprayed it good with fluid film.
 

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I have never seen a #38 that thick before.:swow:
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thats interesting being said by some one with your gravely history. I have several that are that are that thick.
 

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There are gaps in my education so there are a few things I have not seen. I know that there were some shipper shaft bodies made of nylon. I think Richard's has a couple on the shelf.
 

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I have never seen a #38 that thick before.:swow:
Yes you have. That's from one of those L models you hate so much. Looks like everything has been shimmed up to fit. The 38 that is used on a later Kohler powered model is shorter. As is the shipper shaft. I'm not sure when the change was made.
 

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Maybe I have successfully blocked all memory of those. I will have to look at some old parts I have lying around. I think I tossed all of the old ones that I had lying around years ago.
 
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