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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi friends,

I brought the '77 2414 out of the shed today to finally put the rebuilt engine back into it...and I ran into a snag. With the drive line straight, my engine sits 13/16" above the level of the engine mount brackets!

A little history here:

-The tractor came with a 10 hp kohler out of a non powerking tractor, and I found a 14 hp out of a powerking on ebay, and swapped this in to make the engine correct again.

-I also added a dual transmission set up. Everything is rebuilt and appears installed correctly. All the mounting flanges for the transmissions are bolted tight and square, I do not think that is the issue.

-The rear axle stayed in the tractor frame, so it shouldn't have pivoted out of position.

-Here's where I hope my problem lies, I installed the oil pan from the 10hp on this 14 hp block. Do the 14 hp power king Kohlers use a deep sump oil pan? Can someone measure the height of their oil pan for me so I can compare?

-The engine was rebuilt and there is no interference with the connecting rod oil dipper and the current oil pan I have. If the issue is just a difference in pans, I will make some spacers for the engine mount tops and call this done, but I want to make sure I am not missing something here.

Thanks in advance,
Daniel



 

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Measure the original pan from the 14 hp engine . A year ago I replaced an engine in a 1979 2414 PK. I used the pan from the original engine. I think that the original pan was deeper than the pan on the replacement engine. I know I did not have any problems with alignment.
Dave
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thank you, but I do not have an original 14 hp power king oil pan to measure. I only bought a used bare 14 hp block with crank. The only oil pan I have is the 10 hp pan currently on the engine. I need a good measurement from one of you folks.

Thanks,
Daniel
 

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From the bottom of the block where the pan bolts to to the bottom of the pan on my 14 measures 2.90"
 

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Apparently my caliper moved when I pulled it out of the tractor. I remeasured with a different caliper and I get 2 3/8" of pan height. I still think your problem is in the rear.:sorry1:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I still appreciate the help Mike.

So, if the pans are the same, my rear axle may be twisted up at the friction fit of the axle tubes, or something else is off kilter with the axle. 3/4" is a lot out of whack, but everything is now mounted solid and straight using the solid steel spacers I made yesterday. Unless this extra drive train height poses problems in the future with mounting the sheetmetal or anything, I think I am going to leave it as is.

Thanks again, and if anyone else has a different oil pan measurement, I would like to hear about it.

Daniel
 

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I've seen the same situation between a 10,12 , and 14 HP kohler. All 3 different oil pans .my pk pan is about 3" and my simplicity is about 2.25'". Great looking tractor what kind of paint is that ?
 

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Your hood and dash are likely to give you trouble if the height of the bellhousing is not right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I've seen the same situation between a 10,12 , and 14 HP kohler. All 3 different oil pans .my pk pan is about 3" and my simplicity is about 2.25'". Great looking tractor what kind of paint is that ?
Thanks, I was hoping someones PK pan was close to 3", if that was what was supposed to be on mine it would explain some of my misalignment.

The paint is Case/IH Power Red from a quart can. The frame and a lot of drivetrain was applied with a foam roller and it leveled out nicely, but the sheetmetal and a lot of the mechanicals were sprayed using a harbor freight HVLP gun. Frame also has a Glisten PC, epoxy clear top coat, more for oil, gasoline and chip protection, rather than for looks. This whole tractor is sort of a painting experiment and practice for future projects.

I did consider the hood alignment, but since the dash mounts to the bellhousing bolts, it looks like everything should be able to make things fit. I'll find out soon.

Daniel
 

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I think that there is a way to adjust the tilt of the rear axle to bring the drivetran back into alignment.

Can someone with a service manual comment on this?
 

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I think that there is a way to adjust the tilt of the rear axle to bring the drivetran back into alignment.

Can someone with a service manual comment on this?
The bearing housing (the part attached to the diff that the final drive housings attach to) is a press fit onto the differential casting. If you take the bearing housing press fit out of the equation, the bolted final drive castings are what is indexing the angle of the differential input. 3/4" is nothing four feet away from the pivot, meaning 1/16" rotation at the final drive housing mount would easily show up as a 3/4" gap four feet away. there is probably is enough play in the final drive housing bolt holes to "readjust."
 

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I agree with loosening the four mount bolts on each side of the axle at frame mount. Should be enough play to allow it to drop. BUT, sometimes you can't loosen bolts w/out pulling outside gear case sides off and using wrench on other end of bolts. The idea of rotating the axle housings in the diff case sounds like very hard to work with. OR, the angle mounts on some of my PK's had a slot in the mount bolt at frame. The whole angle iron will go up/down some to align, or at least get closer!

I think Kohler pans are pretty much all the same, cept in the variety w/out the outer bolt lips, which can mount lower in a frame.

I think you need to look back farther, the spacers may cause other problems as you assemble, PLUS, would think could be a weak area, might cause cracking or breaking off of mount feet, with only a little support, instead of the whole angle iron. COULD, use wider angle iron too, shop around.
 

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I agree with loosening the four mount bolts on each side of the axle at frame mount. Should be enough play to allow it to drop. BUT, sometimes you can't loosen bolts w/out pulling outside gear case sides off and using wrench on other end of bolts. The idea of rotating the axle housings in the diff case sounds like very hard to work with. OR, the angle mounts on some of my PK's had a slot in the mount bolt at frame. The whole angle iron will go up/down some to align, or at least get closer!

I think Kohler pans are pretty much all the same, cept in the variety w/out the outer bolt lips, which can mount lower in a frame.

I think you need to look back farther, the spacers may cause other problems as you assemble, PLUS, would think could be a weak area, might cause cracking or breaking off of mount feet, with only a little support, instead of the whole angle iron. COULD, use wider angle iron too, shop around.
Correct GL. To access the final drive housing bolts the final drive covers and bull gears need to be removed.
Good point on the angle iron, although on most of the pk's i've seen the angle is slightly above the frame towards the front of the tractor and slightly below the frame towards the back of the tractor. Any major variation on that and i would say that someone tweeked the final drive mounts when they removed the engine. I'd say that the previous owner, when going to install the replacement engine, tried to lift out the engine before the input shaft was fully out of the clutch assembly. Just a guess.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for the comments, I am going to stick with the spacers I made, so far they look like everything should work out just fine with them in place. The solid steel spacers that I made are as long and wide as the original angle iron mounts, so there should be no troubles with enough support.

I do not have enough adjustment at the final drive bolt holes, I checked that. It must have, at one time twisted up at the tube press fits, or my oil pan I am using is different.

It is very possible, as a previous owner slipped a nearly dead 10 hp engine in this thing and hid it with the 14hp sheet metal, and on top of that, nearly every drivetrain connection was loose and leaking when I got it, and the engine was just barely held in.

She was a lemon, but after an 8 hour drive to pick her up, I wasn't about to go home with an empty trailer. The restoration has been a trial by fire:fing20:! I'll post some pics when she's done, I am getting close!

Daniel
 
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