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need help with my 12 volt conversion????

2779 Views 9 Replies 3 Participants Last post by  snowcrash
Hey guys,
This looks like a really nice place with a lot of helpful topics and already seen some stuff that I never knew existed before coming over here!

Here's my problem, have a Ford 2000 with a loader on it and had the regulator tweeked to run on a 8 volt battery but we are always replacing them and it just doesn't charge up good. Figured we would change it so I bought a 12 volt conversion kit that came with all the accessories needed to get the job done. There were minor issues with the bracket with the loader so close, changing belts was a chore due to the pump shaft going thru the front connecting to the bottom pulley on the tractor and also the wiring harness being taped up wrong. Like I said, all of this was minor so got it all back together today and went to crank it and nothing!

Had the original 6 volt coil on it, so I ran a wire from the terminal block(hot with the switch on) to the resistor that came with the kit, and then a wire to the + side of the coil like the instructions said to do. Went to crank it and we had nothing checked with a test light and to begin with, the 12 volt side of the resistor was burning bright and the other side was dim like it has been resisted going to the + side. The coil's negative side didn't even saw a light on the test light. Later though after trying to crank it, sometimes both sides of the resistor were burning bright as was the coil so thought the resistor is bad or something? Check the points and they had fire even though the test light didn't light up going to the distributor from the - side of the coil. Checked with a volt meter and the 12 volt side of the resistor would show 12 all the times and then the other side would show a different number either low or when the test light would be burning bright, 12, the same as the hot side where it should be 12.

Not sure if the coil was burnt up or something, I decided to try a 12 volt coil that I am pretty sure is good. Trying not to spend a lot of money troubleshooting this problem, my old street rod had a resistor on the firewall I used when I used a different distributor on it but now with the electronic distributor, I no longer need it so it was just sitting there. Now with a 12 volt coil and the resistor, I put that stuff on and got it wired up like I was told by a parts man back in the past when working on my uncles 2000 that has been already converted. I ran the 12 volt switch wire from the terminal block to the + side of the coil and then ran a wire from the negative side of the coil to the resistor and then a wire from the resistor to the distributor. I was always told that if you have 12 volts and have a 12 volt coil that it should receive the full volts and then be dropped down for the distributor. Went to crank it that time and still got nothing. I put a test light on the coil wire and did see that it was firing for a moment. Not long after that the tractor did crank up but only a few seconds later cut off and has not fired since.

I checked the points again and it does have more fire with the way it is hooked up now than before with the 6 volt coil on it but for some reason still isn't firing. If you pull the plug out of the top of the coil and try to start it, you don't see a spark.

I'm at a lost with this conversion and really need some assistance to get it back running. I don't know if I need to buy another coil, resistor, coil with a resistor built into it, points, condensor or what I need to get it fixed and running so we can move hay with it.

If you have any ideas or points, part numbers or anything, please help and I'll try anything in the morning. I see that if you get a coil that is internally resisted and you don't need to use a resistor I am assuming but not really sure. I saw in some post that a guy said that an AC Delco U515 didn't need to be resisted but not really sure on that. After reading things, I am not sure what needs to be changed but from the beginning, it looked as if you just resist the wire going to the coil, you would be fine and it should run but I don't guess so right now!

I know how to work on stuff and this just has me confused, maybe I'm just not thinking straight but any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Ok, so are you saying, then i should use a 12 volt condensor if I am trying to run it the way I am now with the 12 volt coil on it?

If I ran a setup without the internally resisted coil, a regular 12 volt coil, what would I need to still do, run a resistor between the coil and distributor, do I need to change the condensor to 12 volts?

Also, do I need to change out the condensor to 12 volts and the condensor is on the inside of the distributor for my setup? It seems like I read that the points to not have to be changed?

Last question, with the original setup with the 8 volt coil on it, why should it have not cranked if everything was hooked up right because the coil ran fine before taking the generator off?

The battery is brand new, new ends on the cable, posts are clean, ground to ground and positive to the solenoid.
Just wanted to give you guys an update on my situation. After doing some research and your ideas, I went to Napa and picked up a new 12 volt coil that was internally resisted, part number was MPE IC14SB, and got a new condensor at Advance since Napa was out. Just went ahead and got the condensor that was supposed to go in it since I should not have had to change it in the first place. Came home and hooked it up like it should have been, 12 volt wire from the terminal block(hot with the switch on) to the + side of the coil, short wire from the - side of the coil to the distributor. Instead of replacing the condensor from the get go, decided to try it and it fired up and ran perfect.

Since I wired the alternator to a three wire so that it would charge from the beginning, looked at the the volt gauge and it was indeed showing around 14 volts charging, and also checked with volt meter at the coil, battery and alternator and all had numbers nice to see showing the alternator was doing its job.

I went that method though from reading about it and thinking that it would be better since the alternator did kick in until around 1800 rpm's I guess and this way we don't have to rev the tractor from the get go to charge. I used the existing idiot light that was on it only changing the bulb over to a 12 volt bulb and all that works like it should, light on with the switch on and then goes off either with the tractor running or with the switch off!

Thanks for the help! Now we just have to determine why our diesel Ford 5000 isn't charging good now. It probably needs new brushes in the generator since they have never been changed that my dad knows of since it was new but we have to get that fixed instead of buying new expensive 4dlt batteries every year or so!
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Say the condensor did go bad though, what kind should go back in it? I know people have said since you have 12 volts now then to put a 12 volt condensor in it, but why is that! Isn't the coil reducing the voltage down to say 8-9 volts which 6 volt coils could handle. I know our regulator had been tweaked for 8-9 volts since we ran a 8 volt battery in it! I guess though a 12 volt condensor would allow for higher volts from the coil if that ever did happen?

If I did though get a new condensor if something happened, do I just ask for a 12 volt condensor or is there a generic part number out there to keep handy to pick up a cheap one?
Sorry for bringing up an old topic but just wanted to update you on my conversion. I thought the coil was my solution but I guess a couple days after running the tractor, went to crank it and it fired but then died! Went to Tractor Supply and they had a 6volt kit for the distributor so we got that and then went next door and picked up a 12 volt condensor at Advance. Put the new condensor in and it still wouldn't fire. Put the new points in from the kit in the distributor and it fired right up. Ever since then it has cranked when we have had to use it so hopefully the points were the last cause of problems for us from doing this 12 volt conversion.

Thanks again for the help!
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