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I was dozing along just fine. Went down a steep bank using emergency brake for slowing as I went down the hill. When I reached the bottom I shifted from forward to reverse and then back into forward. The dozer will not move. Its like it is in neutral. No noises, its never given any signs of transmission problem, the fluid is clean, the trans. Pressure guage is normal. I shifted the high low lever to before it is engaged. I took the floor covers and the seat out to inspect the drive shaft and the linkages. The drive shaft is turning. The linkages intact.
Any ideas? Thanks
 

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I'd have to guess your parking cable isn't fully released where it makes it's connection on the lower end. Not that it's holding the brake, but rather holding, if I remember right, the slave cylinder, and not releasing far enough to engage the track drive..

That being said, when operating the 450C, or 850E we had at work, when working a slope, we'd use reverse steering while backing down the slope, to move over for the next pass. Pushing the brake pedal down approx. 1/3, to 1/2 way, would disengage the track drive, and let it freewheel somewhat on that side, while the other side was still being driven, and you could make a nice gradual turn. The 450C had dry brakes, and if we'd been working creek channels, brake expander mechanism's would get rusty, and make the brakes grabby It'd make a mess of a nice looking job, locking one track, even when you were trying to just feather it.

It's been nearly 16 years since I've been around that stuff, but do recall numerous lines on the block, the shift levers attach to. In my mind, whatever the connection is, between the brake slave cylinder, and what disengage's the drive on the track at the 1/3-1/2 way point, is stuck in that position, to disengage/kill the tracks. Just make sure there is slack where the cable attaches to the slave cylinder connection, and is fully released.

Theoretically, when you pulled the parking/emergency brake, you disengaged the track drive on both sides, to the point of engaging the brakes to hold you back. When you released the emergency brake, it released the brakes, but possibly didn't release far enough to re-engage the track drives.If it was adjusted so it engaged both brakes evenly, both would be in the "neutral" position, so to speak. Probably clear as mud... Eh..??

Hopefully it's something that simple, and nothing a good shot of penetrating oil won't fix...
 

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Thats sounds simp.e enough. I will check that tomorrow if its not raining. I will let you know what I find. Thank you very much for the info. I sure hope that's all it is
 

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For your sake, I hope it is too. Sounds like it's in a bad spot to retrieve, and/or work on.

I loved those tractors, mainly because you can make power turns, putting one track in low, the other in high, instead of killing a track with a steering clutch. Pretty darn handy when working in creek channels.

Just a suggestion, and take it for what it's worth. Going down a steep incline, you may want to try going at a slight angle down the slope. If you think about it, it takes some of the steepness out of it. A lot depends on what you have to navigate around, to get from point A, to point B, such as large tree's, or one's you don't want to damage. If it's not possible to go at an angle, many times we've backed down, and put the blade down enough to hold you some.

As mentioned above, when using the E-brake, it disengages the track drive, just like using the foot brake, to disengage them, so you get absolutely no engine/transmission braking, at what I would assume you'd be at an idle.

All of ours had winches on them, and if working a steep enough slope, just not going down to get to where you work on something, we'd tie off to a tree, and use the winch as a life line to pull yourself back up, without having to paw your way back to the top. Or, if no trees, use one of the other tractors as an anchor. And, most definitely be careful on hard frozen ground. If going across a slope sideways, or somewhat sideways, those tracks are like sled runners.
 

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Actually I am somewhat lucky as to the position of the dozer. It is setting on what we call the ridge road that we drive up the hill to get to the top. It is setting over the ditch line which always has water from a spring. Not a good place to have to work on or pull pans off if need be. We have a 350 hitachi excavator though if need be we can move it. I think you may be on to something about the e brake cable and linkage. I am drinking a coffee now getting ready to leave to check it out. I will update you. I am going to put new slave cylinders and master cyls on it over the winter. We bought it in May this year. Its done a lot of work on an old hilly farm we bought this year. Still have a lot of work ahead of us. They had clear cut the 106 acres we bought. Clearing it to run cattle and clearing a couple of homesite. I am getting up in years now. I am not a bad mechanic but I have very little equipment knowledge. I sure have had some experience this year with the excavator and the dozer. The mind is willing the body is lagging behind! Thanks again.
 

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When you get ready to change those out, check here on prices. Remanufactured Transmissions, Torque Converters, Engines - Joseph Industries if you'll be shopping online for those parts. I bought brake parts for my old 310B hoe, new master cylinders, slave cylinders, and a water pump for my 480C hoe here. Best to call, and have your part numbers ready. It's been several years ago, since I las tordered anyhting from them. I spoke with the same woman that took orders. She's very knowledgable about the parts.They are located in NE Ohio, about 3 hours North of me. If I called, and ordered before 10:00 a.m., UPS delivered the parts the next morning.

I don't see where you're located, but compared to other places I looked, if the prices are as different as they were then, it'd be well worth the savings, even with shipping costs.

Anymore, I spend the money to get an OEM repair/shop manual. Very descriptive, and has step by step instructions with pictures.I've bought all mine off ebay, and were priced pretty decent. Mine was used, with a few smudges. Not a problem for me, as I'll have a few more in it, before finishing a job.

No need for a parts manual, if you don't already have one, as long as Case Construction keeps their online parts catalog going. If you open this link, Case long track crawler tractor | Case CE | MyCNHi US Store it will take you to the parts catalog for the 850D. Just select a function group, and drill down through, until you find what you're looking for. If you want to compare their prices,with aftermarket prices, select a part, and it will show you the dealer price. Be prepared for sticker shock, as they are pretty proud of their parts. To search online, copy and paste the part number to a good search engine, and shop til' you drop. I get the best results using Google.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for sharing about joseph industries. I am in a small Village in SE Ohio. Wheelersburg, Ohio.
Well I went out and took a look. Everything appears to be working. The slave cylinder actuating linkage other right side has a fairly heavy spring that pulls the mechanism back to its resting point. That mechanism is what the brake cable crevices attach to. I notice that the slave cylinder plunger on the right side only moves about 3/16". The plunger on the left side moves about 1/2" or so. The brake pedal for the left track has more travel. I assume thats the difference in the slave cylinder movement. When I start up the dozer and shift into forward or reverse, high or low, there is absolutely no change at all. No movement. No load on engine. No change in sound. Nothing at all.
I raised the tracks and put a metal pipe under each one. We took the excavator and turned the dozer 90 degrees so we could pull it down the road to a flat work area. Tomorrow I am going to pressure wash it. I am going to look in my manual about hooking up pressure gauges. IDK.​
 

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Oh yes when we pulled it with the tractor I could steer it with the foot pedals. The one odd thing is that the brake pedal was the best it has been since we bought it in May. Maybe because there is no load on the tracks.?????
 

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Case 850D 855D Crawler Service Manual #816520 is the manual I have. It has no trouble shooting section. It has no explanation as to what components do and how they should function.
I have seen no reference on line to a trouble shooting manual. One would be nice right about now
 

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I was hoping to hear better news, for your sake. Looking through the parts catalog, and thinking something has to provide hydraulic pressure, for all of the internals inside the transmission, that all of those external hydraulic lines go to, for a specific purpose. I'm seeing a transmission charging pump in the list Schematic, Manuals, Specifications and Diagrams for R30678 transmission charging pump | Case CE | MyCNHi US Store

Being the driveshaft is turning, yet nothing is happening, possibly the transmission charge pump isn't working properly, for some reason. I've read some going through many threads about 580 Backhoe's, that the pickup tube screen can get plugged, and the pump can't pick up oil, and the backhoe's will not move. Looking through the schematic, either side of the charge pump in the parts catalog,it shows an inline cartridge type filter housing, on the suction line. Schematic, Manuals, Specifications and Diagrams for Crawler hydraulic circuit, transmission to charging pump, suction line and pump mounting | Case CE | MyCNHi US Store And with Case in their infinite wisdom of discontinuing the handling of some parts, naturally this filter description, and part number are one of the items they deleted. So having a hard copy of a parts catalog would be handy too.

Have you ever changed the transmission fluid, and filters..?? Just wondering if you did, if there was some nasty crud that came out of it. If not, just wondering if going down that steep grade caused some sediment in the transmission to get sucked up, and plug the screen, or that filter pictured. I don't know if your manual shows how to do a pressure test on the charge pump, or how much pressure it should put out or not. From the schematic, it looks like it's mounted on the torque conveter housing, right beside where the driveshaft attaches to the front. Beyond that, looking at the internals of the transmission, there's lots of pieces parts, what I would call servos, that control all of that forwatd/reverse. high/low functions.

I had to look on the map to see where you are, as it sounded familiar. Been through there several times in the last 4-5 years making road trips to Ironton, to pick up purchases for some buddie's, and me. The last trip I went solo, to pick up a little Farmall 140 I bought. It needed some TLC, but bought it right.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Actually Ironton is only about 10 miles from me. Our ground we are cleaning up is about 10 minutes west of our house or 20 miles from Ironton.
There is a filter mounted on the inside frame . It is a canister style. When we bought the dozer we changed all fluids and filters but this one. I could not get it loose. Its on my list to have to do now. I really don't think that is it but it could be. I would think if the filter plugged there would have been a noticeable power difference. Also the pressure guage is where its always been. Woulda plugged filter actually stop the system altogether? I will get it cleaned up tomorrow if its not raining. Tuesday I will get under it and pull the center belly pan. I had some serious torque on that filter in May and it would not budge. Maybe if I put some heat around the gasket area I can break it free. It has to come off!! One way or the other.
Wonder what the charge pump actually does. Does it pressurize the control valve to shift spools and direct flow?
 

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I'm thinking that's exactly what the charge pump does. For kicks, I entered "Case 850 won't move" in a Google search. I got a bunch of hits.A few for the newer series, that have an electronic parking brake, and transmission hyd. control valve, but most for like the old style. Fixes were from bad charge pumps, to plugged filters, to the rubber connector hose, that connects the steel line from the charge pump, to the transmission. From the gist of it, it's 3" - 4" long, and just held in place by clamps. Either thay had split, or the clamps had loosened over time, and letting the charge pump suck air, instead of picking up oil. I suppose do the easy stuff first, like check that connector hose, and maybe not so easy charge pump filter. Any chance the old filters you replaced laying around yet..?? Maybe cut them open, and see what they look like inside.

Just for curosity, when you pushed the brake pedal, did you notice the pressure gauge needle moving any..??

One more thing that came to mind, that was on the 450C. To the left of the shift control tower, and further beyond where your left leg would normally be, was a lever sticking forward, and up out the front of the vertical panel under the seat. It's a Hi/Lo range selector. We didn't use it very often. Only a couple times I can really remember, when tramming long distance on a road we'd built in way back off the road. With that in the high side,and shift levers in high, you'd only run at about half throttle, because it really made the tracks sing, and rough on the back if you hit a bump. I remember one of the few times the other operator wanted to use it, we work for 20 minutes or so,to free it up from dirt and debris collecting around it. If I remember right, Lo range was when the handle was up. I also remember more than several times, some how the cuff on my bib overalls would get hooked on it. Not that it pulled it into the neutral position, pulling my leg up to get it off there, as it was usually sort of stuck there from not being used that often. Just trying to think of some easy stuff to check. Your's may not be that difficult to move, if it even has one. We took those tractors in places I would assume most don't. We worked lots of creek channels, to straighten them up, before placing dump rock to hold creek banks. And most of the time, running in water to the top of the tracks, which would carry a lot of silty debris in the belly pan. It was not uncommon for us to drop them 3-4 times a year, and clean them out. Normally, just before our mechanic came out to do a full service. Wow, a lot said, just to say that, LOL..
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I have checked the hi low lever.it. seems to be working. If I pull it to nuetral and try to engage it the gears will grind. I shut the engine off to shift it. Thats how its has worked in the short time I have ran it. I just run it in low side.
I never noticed the guage when shifting. I will look at that.
My old filters are gone.
I have to get the charge pump filter off. I only have one good hand and a piece of another. I will enlist the help of a friend to see if we can get it loose. Today I am going to get it cleaned up to work on. Hopefully it will dry up some.
I did find the trouble shooting guide in the manual. Need a flow meter to troubleshoot. Thats high dollar item! I will keep you posted. Thanks Again
 

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Well, I got the filter housing loose yesterday evening. Thescreen filter is full of small pieces. Some of them are the shape of a diamond and some have a small channel in the material. These pieces look to me to be from a friction plate. They are only small pieces some maybe 3/8" x 1/4" most are smaller. They are not very thick at all. Maybe 35 to 40 thousands of an inch. Since the dozer will not go into reverse or forward I am thinking they are part of the Fand R clutches. If so it not good news. Probably means pulling the transmission.
 
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