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Discussion Starter #1
I took the deck off my 222 last year to repaint it. Now I am trying to get the [email protected]%^&*td back on and can't figure out how to do it. I need a step by step description on how it goes back on. I have been fighting the thing for two days and I am about to toss it as far as I can, which ain't very far, since it weighs a ton.:banghead3

Is there such a thing as a shop manual for these things. I have a great one for my John Deere. It describes how to do everything in a very systematic manner. Worth it's weight in gold.
 

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Manuals are available from our friend bhildret [email protected]
While you are waiting for it to arrive, you might wish to consult the exploded parts views available at Ingersolltractor.com

Better yet, look in the sticky at the top of this page. 2nd section has a rotary mower manual.
 

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There is more than one way to put the deck onto a tractor.

To make sure we are on the same page here, there are three items involved.

1. the actual tractor with no part of the deck installed

2. the mule bracket and deck frame

3. the bare deck.

A bare deck is just the actual deck itself.

If you have the mule bracket and frame properly assembled, then it is a simple job to slide it under the front of the tractor while holding the bracket at an angle that places to bottom of the bracket closer to the tractor than the top.

On the front of the tractor itself, there is a bracket that hangs down from the tractor's frame on each side. If you look at those brackets you will see a pin sticking out and facing the same pin on the bracket hanging down on the other side. There are slots in the bottom of the mule bracket that slide onto those two pins. Engage those pins with the mule bracket and then rotate the mule bracket upward until the "ears" that have large holes in them on either side of the mule bracket, slide into the slots where the spring-loaded pins reside. The spring-loaded pins are designed to be pulled back against the springs and then rotated so they lock in the "open" position. That allows you to easily put the mule bracket ears into position and then rotate and release the spring-loaded pins so they lock the mule bracket into position.


Use a bit of twine to temporarily hold the deck frame as tight against the underside of the tractor's frame as possible. You can now either slide the deck under the tractor or you can lay the deck on the lawn, make a ramp on the back side of the deck from some short pieces of lumber and just drive the tractor over the top of the deck until the front wheels reach the other side and drop down to the lawn.

With the deck now under the tractor, remove the twine that was holding up the frame so it can drop down. Line up the deck with the frame and insert the pins and clips in the appropriate locations to connect the deck to the frame. The last items are the two deck hanging brackets that go from the implement lift rocker shaft , down to the rear holes in the deck frame.

At the top of this forum is a stickie pertaining to service manuals etc. There is a manual for decks there. Also, you can go to the Ingersoll website and download the deck parts book and it will help too. Once all the mechancal stuff is done, then you have to carefully slide the drive belt between the oil cooler and fan so you can install it on the PTO pulley. From there, it comes down and around the two idler pulleys and back to the deck pulley. IF the big T-handle is backed off fully, then putting the belt on isn't all that difficult. Once in place, the T-handle must be rotated counter-clockwise to put the tension on the belt. Keep an eye on the tension spring as it stretches. One the distance between the spring coils is equal to the thickness of the spring's own wire, then the belt is tensioned correctly.
 

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Hey, that's a lot better explaination of mounting the mower deck than Case/Ingersoll ever produced in a manual. I bet Ingersoll would sure like to hire Castoff to write their manuals and run the PR dept .... Great job ....

:congrats::congrats::250:
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I want to thank all of you for such a quick response. I will be out first thing in the morning to get that sucker on. And yes that is the best blow by blow description I have ever seen. It certainly will bake things easier for this old man.
Nick
 

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I want to thank all of you for such a quick response. I will be out first thing in the morning to get that sucker on. And yes that is the best blow by blow description I have ever seen. It certainly will bake things easier for this old man.
Nick
Nick,
No need for you to bake any part of the deck or mule. Both will fit on your tractor quite easily without being pre-heated. :fing32:
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Nick,
No need for you to bake any part of the deck or mule. Both will fit on your tractor quite easily without being pre-heated. :fing32:
Pre-Heating was something I had not considered, but if you had told me to do that, I probably would have given it a try. I have never received bad advice on this forum.

I went outside this morning and took me about 10 minutes to get it on. I cut grass with it today but found I have engine problems. Starting a new post for that.

Nick

:trink39:
 
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