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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 14 hp snapper rer model #331314be. I redid some bearings, boots and new clutch disc. Mower was working pretty good before this, even though one of the rear bearings was totally shot. Got it running again ,but after a few minutes, it would not go forward anymore...I got it back in the shed in reverse with no problem.
Now I jacked up the rear and put it in forward and the wheels turn the way they should, although if you put your hand on one, it stops while the other turns...I am thinking maybe the friction disk in the clutch is worn....I am going to try to put two discs in there to see if that helps. Also, I lost the throttle spring that on the lower throttle bracket, can't seem to get the throttle to work properly...what spring should I look for?
 

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Hello , I think your RER is a series 14 with a 13 HP Briggs . I will try to show a couple of pages ,from "RER manuals" free on this forum Oh well 4 pages the same. If the Thrust washer" is the disc replaced , it has very little to do with driving. The "driven disc" shown is more important. In my opinion the thrust washer helps keep the rattles out. Finally got the other page sent , it shows how to adjust the "speeds" of drive, but it is probably the "driven disc. that's the problem. It's the "wear part". Your spring is probably a B&S part , search your engine number and find it
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The fact that you have reverse means that the gears sprockets and other pieces are OK.
 

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Thanks for the diagrams....I think the fiber disc is the friction disk, sort of like the clutch disc in a car...I don't think it has enough friction to drive the wheels consistently. I was able to move the mower in forward today, but after running for a little bit...it will stop going forward.
 

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"I think the fiber disc is the friction disk, sort of like the clutch disc in a car."
Well you think wrong. Propwash above told you it was not a clutch and he is right. Check that one of the bolts running thru the rear wheel hubs is not sheared perhaps only catching when backing up.
Walt Conner
 

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While I can't match Walts experience, I have had a series RER for 20 years(series 21 bought new) and I swaped engines to a Honda GXV 390 and also rebuilt the chain case and transmission. I have replaced several "rubber discs" and that usually got them driving again. I recently started to get less wear out of the "rubber discs ,and adjusted the drive disc "down to 4 inches from the deck ,no problem since. I also found that your older series had an aluminum driven disc, they seem to wear faster than the new steel ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I did replace the rubber disc, but the paper friction disc I used was the old one that had been in the mower...could this be the problem?
 

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The RER is very stout , one later model used a 29 HP V-twin with a 42 inch deck and used the same drive parts as earlier ones. I enclose a "troubleshooting" page. The drive is hard to visualize ,and there are no pages that show all the system at once. I would recommend that you get the series14 parts manual and the "series 4,5,and6 and later service manual" and try to visualize the drive. I'm a pretty fair mechanic .but it took me a while to under
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stand it , but when you do you will marvel at how it works and how well.
 

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I've seen the center of the disc hub (fig. 4.11) strip out at the key slot, and the mower will still move a bit if not much resistance. As was said above, the fiber thrust washer doesn't do much and isn't the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
UPDATE: I finally got the mower back on its heels. Had to build a wooden standard on which to hang a chain block and tackle and that did the trick. These things are heavy! I may install an inground pole with extension permanently so I can do this any time I want. Anyhow....took apart the "soft clutch" and indeed, the part with the rubber that contacts the engine flywheel does spin freely on its axis...it is not attached to the rest of the mechanism that turns the chains, so there must be some "friction" involved in getting this mower moving. I replaced the fiber spacer, which was worn kind of thin with a new one. Tighten everything up, lower the mower and I was able to mow my lawn immediately. I had to jury rig the carb throttle as i have not sorted out the linkage. I had to install a whole new linkage bracket because the nylon sliders gave way and cannot get it working right...everything is hooked up, but it does not do what it is suppose to do...I think it has something to do with the spring on the linkage plate.
 

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Glad you are mowing again , yes it can be difficult to "stand on end". I'm 77 ,but thankfully I'm still a little strong,and can just get it tipped.I'm going to post another scan of the parts manual and try to explain how it works (at least to my mind). Number 3 is the "rubber wheel there's a "liner" in the side not shown, the old "snapping clutch" doesn't use the liner and bolts up solid giving it the nickname "snapper", the old disc bolts up solid to the hub,the "soft clutch" sort of "floats".The entire clutch assembly is attached to the Chain case ,and rotates on the axles ,with it. The yoke(15) ,also controls the clutch ,by "locking" the assembly at the speed chosen,and the yoke can get worn or rhe slot can get grooves worn in it . Thw mounting bearings on the yoke are plastic and can wear or loosen,also effecting clutch operation. And in the illustration the lever and spring also effect the clutch operation ,notice the extra holes in the arm they adjust the strength of the spring also effecting the clutch operation.
Scan_20200329.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for this detailed summary. I think some people drill into the plate and connect the rubber wheel firmly to the whole assembly, eliminating the soft clutch...does this make it much harder to modulate?
 

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The "hub" (2) is different on the older series (4 and earlier) (The "rubber wheel" has both hole patterns) but I suppose you could drill (also the "liner isn't used on the earlier one).A "head snapping" start -off is the usual result. 6 bolts hold the wheel to hub. series 1,2 and 3 manual .Some "snow throwers" and other equipment still use this system.
Scan_20200329 (2).jpg
 
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