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Discussion Starter #1
So backstory.... my wife was mowing with my 73 110 and everything was great, but then all of a sudden it started sputtering and running real choppy then eventually died. I suspected the coil, so I let it cool off and re started it to put it away and it started and ran but acted like there was a bad ground, ran really choppy and missed a lot.

I pulled it in the garage, put my spark tester on and started it. I could see a spark but it was weak and intermittent. I replaced the coil with the correct internally resisted coil but it had the same symptoms.

I filed and cleaned and gapped the points, but didn't change anything. I then decided to install new points and condenser. Now I've got a real strong spark, but it's still erratic and after about 30 to 45 seconds I lose it again. It'll start right back up, but then repeats itself.

I have no idea what to check now. I put a known good spark plug wire on which changed nothing. I don't know if something is wrong with the magnets, or if the new coil is bad. What should I do?

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Discussion Starter #3
Likely the condenser Nick. Fortunately not an expensive part to replace if that is the issue.
Think so? I hate gas engines. To complicated! Enlighten me please, Tim

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Is the condenser mounted on engine? Or body ? Some times body not grounded the best.


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Discussion Starter #5
Is the condenser mounted on engine? Or body ? Some times body not grounded the best.


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It's on the engine.

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok back to the basics. I checked power to the positive side of the coil, there wasn't any. Earlier the was, so there's an issue upstream somewhere.

To be sure, I ran a jumper wire from the unused accessory tab on the key switch to the coil, now I've got great spark!

Am I ok to keep the jumper in place, or is there a reason I need to dismantle everything and chase down the dead wire?

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Kish JD 318/420/430
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Start checking the main power feed (wire) from key switch to coil. Lose connection on key switch or bad key switch internals or at the coil, or the wire has an internal break some place. You have it down to the wire or the key switch. The bad connection seems to be in the run position on the key switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I haven't spent much time on it yet, but what's strange is the is continuity on the wire going from the key switch through the ammeter to the coil wire. This is the only tractor I don't have a manual for, so I'm not sure if that's normal or not...

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Nick, I'm not familiar with the 110, but later JD L&G tractors have the ammeter between the battery and the key switch. Anyone done any rewiring? Bob
 

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Nick, you have great spark, is it running smoothly now? If so, the condenser is good. BTW it is located normally right next to the points or right next to coil, it's a small silver cylinder about an inch long.

Yes we want you on 4th of July weekend to tear into that beast and fix the wire...that'll leave more beer for the rest of us!! :sidelaugh I think you should be good with temp solution for a while though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok wiring fixed. There was a broken wire just inside the plug. It broke off flush with the connector, and despite my efforts I wasn't able to salvage the connector, but a new female end fit inside the plug good enough. Ran a new wire from the key switch into the plug.

I also put the new condenser back on, and it runs night and day better, but still has a miss and is harder starting than it's ever been. Almost sounds like a harley right now. This is with a China carb. I rebuilt the original Kohler carb twice, but it was still dumping fuel out the intake no matter what I did.

I really want it running like it always has, tap the key and it's going and rarely missed.

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Kish JD 318/420/430
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Run some Seafoam in the gas and in the oil. There most likely carbon on the valves/seats, so this should slowly help remove that issue.
 

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Run some Seafoam in the gas and in the oil. There most likely carbon on the valves/seats, so this should slowly help remove that issue.
I just pulled the head a few weeks ago and de carboned everything

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Discussion Starter #15
Problem solved. I checked again that I had good spark, which I did. Since it about had to be fuel related, I rebuilt a spare Kohler #26 carb that I had and put it on. She fired right up and ran through all rpm just like I remember! Funny how it developed both a fuel and spark issue the same time

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Discussion Starter #16
Well she runs great but this carb leaks fuel out the intake, just like the original one was doing. I've changed floats, setting them to 13/64th like the manual states, I've changed needle and seat... nothing fixes it

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Discussion Starter #17
Had a bad seat out of the package. Put in another new seat and all is well. Nothing else changed.

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Make Better Mowers
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You're fortunate........trouble usually comes in THREES. Let's hope that the third one isn't simply delayed.
 

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not quins. but sextuplets
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You're fortunate........trouble usually comes in THREES. Let's hope that the third one isn't simply delayed.
No... No... it is Murphy's Law..
 
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