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Yes, and you can get a 12 inch extension on it to make it 42 inches. I modified a 42 inch hydrostatic tiller off of an X5xx series machine for my 322 and made it work with my 3 pt. hitch.
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I thought it was controlled off of the PTO coming out the back of the engine? Or is the shaft with the U joint constantly spinning? And what tiller is the one that would work to this tractor without the new gearbox?
Okay so I've only had a 332 for less than a year but I do know there were two PTO's available on these. The front PTO is standard. It's the pulley on the front of the engine but is called front/mid PTO because it can power a front mount implement or mid-mount mower. The rear PTO was an option but your tractor does not have it installed. If it did, that stub shaft you're asking about would be connected to a gearbox installed above the transmission, and you would have a second PTO switch on the dash. I don't know if you can run anything off of just the stub shaft, it turns at engine RPM for whatever that's worth. Not sure why JD just didn't make a 540 rear PTO as standard. Probably due to cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
PA that is a sweet setup... exactly what I'm trying to do. I can fab most things with a torch and a welder. But where did you hook your hydraulic up, to the front remotes or did you add a set to the rear?
 

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And Dixie I need to go back out and look at mine I'm fairly sure I have 2 electric PTO clutches on at the front and one at the rear but I think I only have one PTO switch weird...
 

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PA that is a sweet setup... exactly what I'm trying to do. I can fab most things with a torch and a welder. But where did you hook your hydraulic up, to the front remotes or did you add a set to the rear?
The tractor hydraulics only lift/lower the tiller. They don’t have the flow/psi to run a tiller like a bobcat does.

The tiller has a self contained hydraulic drive system. There’s a pulley-driven pump that drives a hydraulic motor that turns the tines. The tractor motor drives the pulley-driven tiller pump either from the “front” pto via a belt to the “belly” mount, or via a pulley mounted to that rear stub shaft coupled with an electric clutch.


And Dixie I need to go back out and look at mine I'm fairly sure I have 2 electric PTO clutches on at the front and one at the rear but I think I only have one PTO switch weird...
There probably just the front clutch, you can’t really easily see the rear electric clutch when it’s installed. The 2000rpm reduction gearbox or pulley bracket blocks its view. If you haven’t already, I recommend making an account with JD Parts and search for the 332. You can look at all the sub components of the tractor and the implements/ptos/etc. it really helps me make sense of things when I am working on mine.
 

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PA that is a sweet setup... exactly what I'm trying to do. I can fab most things with a torch and a welder. But where did you hook your hydraulic up, to the front remotes or did you add a set to the rear?
The hydrostatic tillers require their own pump powered by a PTO. My setup is very similar to the JD 30 model tiller by using the mid-frame brackets under the tractor. One difference between mine and the JD 30 is my pump had to hang down which impacts my clearance to the ground. Here is a picture of the pump mounted under my machine:

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Discussion Starter #28
Crystal clear now. Thank you Kris and PA for the picture and clarification. That makes perfect sense now. Unfortunately it's raining its tail off here and I'm stuck in the shop staring at the 332 instead of working on it. So does this tractor have what is required to rig a pump to the belly I keep hearing talk about a mule drive??? From what I can figure all this does is take the up and down from the front pto to a horizontal drive? Is this needed or do I have what is required for a tiller. The whole reason I took on this project is to have a compact tractor that can plow/ till middles between my rows of hemp and produce I tend.
 

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I use the same mule drive that the mower deck uses. there is a stabilizer arm from the pump bracket to the front of the frame and then a clamp that goes over one arm of the mule drive to hold it up. Hard to see in your mind but pretty simple in practice. I've included the diagram of the JD 30 tiller pump bracket and arms.
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Crystal clear now. Thank you Kris and PA for the picture and clarification. That makes perfect sense now. Unfortunately it's raining its tail off here and I'm stuck in the shop staring at the 332 instead of working on it. So does this tractor have what is required to rig a pump to the belly I keep hearing talk about a mule drive??? From what I can figure all this does is take the up and down from the front pto to a horizontal drive? Is this needed or do I have what is required for a tiller. The whole reason I took on this project is to have a compact tractor that can plow/ till middles between my rows of hemp and produce I tend.
I didn’t see a mule drive pictured on your tractor. It has tabs that slide into slots up front, under where the front pto/hydraulic ports are. You may go poke around at your...neighbor? I think it was who gave the 332 to you. They may have it. It will need new idler pulleys if it’s sat out all these years. But yeah, you are exactly correct about the mule drive just shifting power transfer 90 degrees. That’s what it does.

I really can’t stress enough for you to sign up for the JD parts catalog I posted a link to earlier. I’m a visual kind of guy and I think you are too. It’s free and the parts diagrams will be super helpful for understanding and ordering what you need. We’ve had tons of rain lately, but the next few days are going to be record highs close to 90F!
 

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Discussion Starter #31
I will definitely take a look into that. I'll look again and see if theres a pulley on the bottom somewhere that would go to a mower belt. And where are you that's gonna have 90s???
 

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Powerstroke, He's in Oklahoma. If a member puts his location in his profile, you can hold your cursor on the poster's name and his location will show up. Bob
 

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I will definitely take a look into that. I'll look again and see if theres a pulley on the bottom somewhere that would go to a mower belt. And where are you that's gonna have 90s???
The mule drive is has to be installed each time you add an attachment that uses a belt under the machine. As stated it slides into notches under the front of the machine so that the PTO pulley can change from the vertical to horizontal direction. Here is a picture of one, those pins marked by arrows slide into the frame:
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I mean you can buy a mule drive on eBay...not terrible expensive used but kinda spendy if you go all out on a new HD AuxHyde. I’d recommend at least replacing the idlers on a used unit and it wouldn’t hurt to add a new thrust plate as the original hole gets egged out like here. He’s even got partially finished ones you just have to paint on eBay. I wouldn’t call her a paperweight just yet, haha. You ain’t in it for nothing but time and elbow grease so far, so you are doing OK 👍🏼
 

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Discussion Starter #36
Well rain never really quit so its gonna have to be tomorrow morning till I can check and see about this mule drive...
 

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SHE LIVES!!! Got it running today and drove it around the property for 20 minutes or so charging up the battery. Unfortunately I think the key switch is still bad it turns off the machine but does not crank it. I made a lead wire coming off the hot post to jump the solenoid. But after a quick bleed of the fuel system she runs and runs like a champ I couldn't be happier or more impressed with a free tractor. I do however have a fuel leak where the fuel lines go in to the injection pump I assume just orings that broke when I was bleeding the system out. But no mule drive so theres that. But its finally in the shop where it belongs and went there under it's own power and almost forgot all you guys who said to hit the drum with a dead blow were right 2 taps with a hammer and it was freed up good to go!!! Thank yall for the help. Now to the restoration.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Yeah I had to put the 185 battery in it to get it to turn over but man it fired right up I couldn't believe it. It's been sitting for over 3 years. The key not starting it has got me confused all I can think is the ignition switch. The neutral switch works because my jumper fell out of the seat switch and when I went to move the tractor it killed it everytime I moved the lever.
 
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