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Discussion Starter #1
Gents, I need a fast solution if at all possible. My 17yr old son put a new battery in my 1977 Case 224. He put it in backwards. Kids, can't kick 'em out -can't strangle them...

After trying to start it this am (2deg F) we found the problem. After correcting the polarity issue, the machine has no action at all when turning the key. There is only one fuse that I can see, and only one fuse shown in the wiring diagram (attached). It only runs to the ammeter, and is sound.

I will be hauling the unit to my shop this evening to test and repair.

I need inspection and test points/procedures. Modern technology has lulled me into a false sense of security. I have two really good scan tools and innumerable testing meters. I have not trouble shot a points and condenser machine since I was 16yrs old.

The urgency is underlined thusly...

This is my snow plow. I have a 200' driveway shaped like a half-pipe. My propane is down to 20% with the holiday looming. The propane company WILL NOT put a tire on my drive if there is half a snowflake on it.

Any help or insight is GREATLY Appreciated.

2441923
 

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Discussion Starter #2
P.S. The only aftermarket modification to this machine is a dedicated ground wire to the headlights. The little clamps that make the ground in the OE headlight circuit did not provide a reliable ground.
 

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The components as I see it that would have failed because of reversed polarity are the Voltage Regulator and maybe the condenser. The points, coil, amp meter, etc are probably NOT going to care.

No Crank troubleshooting:
Got 12 Volts (positive) on the large cable to the solenoid?
when you turn the key to start does one of the small terminals get +12 volts? And does the other small terminal read 0 volts - ground.?

as a 'safety interlock' the tractor is wired such that the switch sends 12 volts to one side of the solenoid, and this solenoid is special, its NOT internally grounded, so the 12 volts has to 'come out' the other small terminal, go to the neutral - start switch in order to get to ground and complete the circuit.

You can test the starter motor by using jumper cables and touching the red (+) to the large bolt on the starter. (or the terminal on the solenoid that goes to the starter, and the starter SHOULD SPIN no matter what the other connections in the tractor are doing.. And if the key switch is NOT in the OFF position the engine might start, if the condenser is OK.

i would unplug the voltage regulator since its probably bad. You shouldn't need it to test starting the tractor.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks!
I did not mention in my initial post that I did use a jump starter to test the starter motor. With Negative grounded to the engine block and positive to the stud on the starter, the starter jumped into position, but I did not try turn the engine over with it. I believe that the starter is fine. It is just a permanent magnet DC motor. They generally don't care about polarity.

I will start with your test procedure later today.

In the schematic I see an unidentified component coming off a lead from the Stator. Would that be a diode? The diagram is a little fuzzy, but it looks like an Arrow.

If the engine never turned over with the bad polarity, is there any reason to suspect that the diode (if it is one) is burnt out? I have been down that road before with an old Ford truck. My buddy roped me into helping him find that diode (buried in the massive wire loom).
 

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Thank You very much. I had been looking for that manual. Funny how Google is great at returning irrelevant results for the "easy" stuff, but will spit out volumes of info for the more obscure.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Getting conflicting information as to serial number production year and parts diagrams. Anybody else run into this?
 

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Well, unless you are the original owner, its possible that parts from other tractors have been swapped in.. What specifically are you getting conflicting info on?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The SN (9738526) is listed as a 1977 Case 224. Apparently it was a transformative year. NOS, and used parts listings have a lot of poor info. One redirect led me to a parts diagram for an older model that has the Starter/Generator.

I guess I will have to just see what is under the hood this evening. I have owned the machine for about 2yrs. This is really the first problem I have had. I really like the machine. Tough and dependable. I might spring for that L7 holding valve though... I wonder if the engineer who designed these lived in Kansas. The hills of Western PA will keep the operator on his toes.
 

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I am pretty sure that you can just consider the VR / rectifier fried...link to amazon https://www.amazon.com/Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-Kohler-10-S/dp/B01K9Y2M3O/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?keywords=j.i.+case+tractor+224+voltage+rectifier+regulator&qid=1576788189&sr=8-2-fkmr2
I would start with that....There should be a fuse to protect this system but if not this would cook...also see if this miscue drained the battery...it could have possibly shorted the battery causing damage to it...and don't give up on it..it is a great tractor
 

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Just a thought, I see you said the ammeter is sound. Are you sure? Power must pass through it for the rest of the tractor to get power?

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
 

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The SN (9738526) is listed as a 1977 Case 224. Apparently it was a transformative year. NOS, and used parts listings have a lot of poor info. One redirect led me to a parts diagram for an older model that has the Starter/Generator.

I guess I will have to just see what is under the hood this evening. I have owned the machine for about 2yrs. This is really the first problem I have had. I really like the machine. Tough and dependable. I might spring for that L7 holding valve though... I wonder if the engineer who designed these lived in Kansas. The hills of Western PA will keep the operator on his toes.
This is my listing. If you send your lines and the 2 90's that are not used for the valve that screws into the drive motor it is $200. The 90's are replaced with straight fittings that are not in the pictures but they are included.

L7 Valve
 
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