[gerjoi52]

Ok - I'll try to keep this short. Not too familiar with Murray's (but I'm getting to be....:ROF ). Was given FREE a Murray 46901X292B, 96015-218847, 46" cut with hydro tranny, 16 HP opposed Briggs.( I'm assuming was the original engine) It ran but smoked badly. Otherwise in decent shape - must have been garage kept. I replaced the belts, installed gator blades and a new center stacked pulley complete with spindle, changed oil, serviced mower, cut grass twice, then engine blew. My BIL replaced engine with a used Briggs 18.5 opposed which ran great for awhile. Now it will only run with the choke full on, and even then that's no guarantee that it will mow. Most of the time it dies whenever I engage the blades. I'm assuming it's a carb problem. This Briggs, model 42A707, type 1236-01, code 9602035A, has the 3 screw carburetor which calls for carb kit 694056. How hard is this carb to rebuild when I've never rebuilt one? Also, anyone have any ideas on the age of this mower? Any help will be greatly appreciated - the grass is still growing, and I need to be mowing..... :thanku:

 

[ohiocowboy1277]

cant help with the age but the carb is pretty easy to rebuild main thing is to make sure all the small passages are cleaned out . i like to use torch tip cleaners for that you can buy them at almost anyplace that sells welding supplies i paid about $10 for mine

 

[patthesoundguy]

hey torch tip cleaners what a great idea, I'm going to try that, I use a garbage bag metal twist tie with the paper or plastic stripped off. I also use the spray carb cleaner to help remove any varnish and junk when I have the carb apart. and a little compressed air, but if you are cleaning a tecumseh snowblower carb be carefull the needle sits in a rubber seat that blows away and you have to go buy a needle and seat kit. Only 5 bucks but if you want to get running and needle and seat were good takes time. I'm not sure if any tractors that run Briggs or kohler use rubber seats but somthing to watch for.

 

[Rusty Jones]

Watch those tip cleaners--don't get them down into any holes further than the end of the smooth part. you can damage the jets with the serrated part of the tip cleaner!

 

[ClassicMotion]

Gerjo, try and back out the fuel mix screw 1/2 turn and see where that gets you. Unless it's a newer engine with the screw removed, it will be above the fuel pump housing (the square black that the fuel lines connect) and below the air filter housing.

If that doesn't benefit you at all, then cleaning the carb would be a good start. We can go into that with further detail if needed. Or your fuel pump is tired and needs a rebuild... Which is cheap and fairly easy on your engine.

Another thought is putting the carb from your old engine onto the new one. Chances are that one is still good since the engine died and not the carb.